I have retired my pickle fork.....after sufferring thru control arm removals with it....I just spent 2 hours pounding off the steering system. Least its finally ALL Off
. Probably broke the steerng box with all the damn pounding. I hope putting it back together is easier!

For what its worth.
I purchased a Harbor Freight forged ball joint separator, cost $16. Part number 99849. I back the nut off on the joint (tie rod or ball joint) then install the tool and tighten till firm. Then hit the tool like a pickle fork and the joint separates often on first hit. Also it usually doesn't damage the rubber seal.
The tool is not professional quality but I have successfully used it several times.

So...got my rear calipers from Mark (very nice btw). Also, got the ss lines. Is there a crush gasket to be used? Just one?

Second question...for the front caliper lines...there are two? My shop manual says they are the same, but when I removed the old one there where 2 of them, the top was silver and thicker than the bottom?

i think that each one needs 2 on the end,12mm

New ss brakes lines are. Compensator is out with bypass installed. Soon as I figure out how to make 2 bubble flares I can button everything up and bleed the system. O..and have to finished the new master install (after flare is fixed)

Installed the new door stops and adjusted passenger door...works great now.

Seems slow going, but everythng takes time for me to learn, screw up twice and then finally get correct

Divers wrote: Seems slow going, but everythng takes time for me to learn, screw up twice and then finally get correct

hey thats just like my local mecanic! mabey thats why he went out of buisness

Fed up with trying to make a bubble flare in the tight quarters. Saw that Vicks has the copper based tubing with flares installed for ~125 shipped. Mine are now on order. Probably better this way. The copper based stuff is reportedly a breeze to bend and install.

We shall see.

BTW - I have 4 nice new 10mm flare nuts for sale Got them from autoricambi.

Since I have already bypassed the compensator (which was now a waste of money)...running new lines I can just go from the master cylinder directly to the rear flexline....Correct?

7 hours later

1. New brake hard lines are done....copper based stuff is OUTSTANDING.
2. Master cylinder in and done
3. Calipers and brake pads installed


Now I relax....

I tip my hat to you sir...that is some awesome sounding work you are doing and very extensive. I just purchased a 71 spider that is literally in pieces and by reading your post it actually gives me hope that I'll be able to put it back together. Big thing I learned by your post is one step at a time. Have a good day Rob

So....99% sure I have the brake system back together correctly. Bled the brakes today with no problems.


Question....the brakes are dragging a bit when I rotate the wheel by hand. Is this normal under the car is run and brakes really used? I assume until the surface rust from the rotors is scratched off some dragging with be noticed...true? All the calipers move freely on the blocks (which were lubed VERY well).

some nasty weather here in orlando this weekend, i didnt do anything

I agree....nice warm garage I was working in....after I pumped the excess water out of my pool!

Today removed, clean, painted and lubed the washer motor cover and assemblies. Reinstall with new tubing next weekend.

Gotta post pics soon...but...

Roll bar is installed
Carpet is installed
My procar seats and adapters are here and installation set for this weekend.
Center console repainted and installed.

Next have to cut gauge holes in the dash and then find a nice used tranny or find someone to rebuild mine.