charlielucky wrote:Hello Bryan, I forgot to ask a question. When I changed the timing belt, I tightened the 38mm nut as much as possible. I noticed in the workshop manual that there is a torque specification for this nut. I tightened it with a standard 38mm spanner with the car in 4th gear and a friend had his foot on the brakes. Am I right in assuming that the nut just gets tighter as the engine runs? In the sense that the engine turns clockwise along with the nut.

Charles

I believe your theory about the nut tightening by itself with “wear&tear” will work on ‘83 and newer Spiders since the nut in these is a counterclockwise type. Before ‘83, you’ll need to tighten it with the proper torque spec…but then again, these cars were manufactured using “farm technology”—designed to be serviced almost anywhere in the world with basic tools.

Hi, I tightened the crankshaft nut as best I could so I will just have to keep an eye on it. So my road test went OK but I only did a couple of kilometres. When I got back home and turned the engine off I thought all was OK. When I went to re-start the engine it would not start.... Panic.... I thought maybe it was low on fuel so I opened the fuel cap and there was a whoosh of air. I guess the fuel tank breather hose is blocked and the vacuum was stoping fuel getting to the engine. I left the fuel cap on loosely and this morning the car started straight away. Not too sure how to unblock the breather tube? If it is full of gunge I don't want it going into the tank.

My other worry is regarding the radiator fan. I have one of these laser heat guns so I know the engine did not get over 90°. My inexperience is the problem here because I'm not sure exactly at what temperature the fan should kick in. I read somewhere that it is possible to install a lower temperature rating thermostat switch. Is this a good idea?

Thanks

I opened the fuel cap and there was a whoosh of air.

Often the 2 way check valve in the fuel vent system is clogged. The originals were made of metal the replacements are plastic. I have had good luck removing the valve and cleaning them. It is located in the vent line from the charcoal canister above the rear axle on the driver side. Its a round think about 6-10mm thick about 40mm diameter.

Usually I can blow through one with my mouth if its not clogged.

Thank you patron for the assistance. I was thinking the vacuum in the fuel tank could be caused by the small pipe that goes from the fuel latch to the tank being blocked. I'll try and figure out what is going on. Can you confirm at what temperature the radiator fan should engage?

Charles

charlielucky wrote:Can you confirm at what temperature the radiator fan should engage?

Assuming your car has the stock electrical fan switch on the bottom of the radiator, about 200 oF. I seem to recall 92 oC is the spec, which is about the same.

If the fan doesn't come on until the gauge is two-thirds or three-quarters of the way to "full", that's too hot.

-Bryan

HI, I brought the car up to temperature and the fan came on at 88c so I think I can be confident the cooling system is now working properly. I stupidly tried to remove the radiator cap while the engine was still hot ( using a thick towel for protection). and was surprised at the pressure there was in the radiator. Water spurted out around the radiator cap. The radiator cap is brand new, purchased from spider point so I'm just wondering if the water pressure in the system is normal once the engine has been turned off?

Wednesday is the big day when I drive the car to the testing centre. Here is France a vehicle over 30 years old needs to be in its original its configuration and meet its emissions standards at the time of manufacture. Fingers crossed

I really want to post some photos of my car to thank you all for the great assistance you've been. For some reason I just can't upload them and even using imgur the site will not display them. Maybe there is a problem with me using a French server so If I could mail them to somebody in the US to upload them for me that would be great.

Thank you

Charles

charlielucky wrote: so I'm just wondering if the water pressure in the system is normal once the engine has been turned off?

Yes, that is normal. The cooling system will continue to be pressurized until the engine and radiator have cooled back down to ambient temperature, which can take a couple hours or so. Even then, some residual pressure can remain in the system. It's normal.

-Bryan

Hi, My car passed all the technical tests here in France apart from a problem with the parking brake. Apparently the driver side brake is not working at all. About 5 years ago I had a mechanic replace most of the brake lines and pads etc. I have never dabbled into the braking problem as I assumed it was all sorted. I adjusted the cable a few times to work on the dash etc. but that is all. The wheel hubs were very hot when I got to the test centre which makes me think the pads are not properly disengaging. Where would you suggest I start troubleshooting? I discovered a couple of other problems that only became apparent on the drive to the test centre. My alternator doesn't seem to charge and when I tested it with the lights and radio on there was only 12.57 volts on the battery. I'll check the cable and ground connections but it looks like I'm due and new alternator. Do you suggest getting a more powerful alternator than the original 55ah? Another problem I discovered is the drive shaft centre support is very sloppy so it needs replacing. Last of all is the one way fuel valve. So enough to keep me busy.

Charles