narfire wrote:Hmmm, not loading...

Copy/paste the address into your address bar - I got it to load that way.

That should do it, you just need to go slow, have patience to wait for air to build up. In the following video, I did talk about the compressors, not thorough info, but covered some of it, hope it helps.

http://youtu.be/szI-12aSPHo

Landhawk wrote:Right now I just have a small pancake compressor, but I'm going to buy a new one shortly. Was looking at something like this (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ockType=G4) but wasn't sure if it was powerful enough. Based on your comments it sounds like it would work.

I replied to you last night, and my reply is nowhere to be found. I'll reply again later on. Uraglow is great paint.

wikkid wrote:How is the Uraglow paint with metallic colors, like the light blue early '80's Spiders (like mine)?

The videos are great! If you think about it next time you are doing a car, you should shoot some more vids then!

I have a Isuzu truck that I am going to do, so I will shoot some to give everyone an idea of the process. I am going to use the urethane and clear from http://www.paintforcars.com, just to show everyone how nice a car can come out with inexpensive paint, and I'll do a cost sheet.

blurple124 wrote:The videos are great! If you think about it next time you are doing a car, you should shoot some more vids then!

WOW nice car !! I wish I found that one. The car looks like that it should go pretty smooth. That paint on there should DA off nicely with 180. Just sand off all the faded paint, you're not trying to go to metal, just to get to a good under base. Then I would prime with 4:1 and block with 220 and re-prime and block with 320, just lightly to knock the top off, and then wet sand 400 and then 500 wet .

As far as paint i would use a single stage as the base and clear over that. I say use a single stage because it is easier to see how you are laying down the metallic. There is nothing worse than a car with blotchy paint no matter how shinny or straight it is. You are just shooting the color to cover and keep the metallic even not for gloss, let it dry about 1/2 hour then shoot the clear. I would use the whole gallon of clear that way you can wet sand it really flat for buffing and not worry about not enough clear.

For the paint you can get the factory color in single stage urethan from http://www.tcpglobal.com/. They have a color chart online. I would not order the base coat though, with a base coat you need to use a different gun with a 1.2 or 1.3 tip. And then unless you have painted a lot, it may be hard for you to tell how the metallic is laying down. I would use http://www.ipaint.us/diclkit1ga1q.html for my clear and you could use http://www.ipaint.us/diclkit1ga1q.html for your primer as it is great primer and easier to spay than 4:1. If you need more help please free free to ask.

wikkid wrote:This car sat out in a field, then a back lot, for years before I found it. Any thoughts on a general approach to prep and re-paint (using same, original light blue metallic) would be welcome:

If I am clear coating, I just shoot the color to cover, and build the gloss with the clear. I do a lot of wet sanding on the clear so I shoot a gal. of clear on a Fiat, just to let it flash really good in between coats. If I am not clear coating Ia shoot probably 5 coats of color and wet sand off about one or two of those for buffing, however each color is different. I would say a little less than a gal just to save some for the jams. Hope that helps.

BTW. All the cars shown in the pics, only the British Racing Green Spider & the Mercedes 300CD have clear coat on.

blurple124 wrote:Awesome video! If you made more that are as helpful as the first, I'd feel ready to paint by myself in no time!

So you are saying that there is no need to take it down bare metal. Except for the rust spots.

How many coats of paint and clear do you use? Perhaps those questions would be answered in another video.

Great help. I actually got some pretty good color-matching help from a guy at TCP Global, so I would feel pretty good ordering paint from them for a good match.

You make my car work sound like a piece of cake, and it's true, there are no bad new paint jobs to remove, just faded, worn original paint.

Then there's the surface rust. I am working on how to understand how to deal with that: grinding/DA sanding it out? how you treat the metal before priming (I am thinking about rust treatment, to stabilize any little bits of remaining rust that might still be there)? How to deal with the rust at the edges of things, like along the thin edges of the door panels? I will keep looking out for new youtube entries!

-Chris

I would DA with 80, not too hard and then either sand blast with a hand held blaster and treat with ospho; or ospho alone. Personally, I like to give it a quick blast. I know a few guys that swear by POR-15 but i have not used it. I would try to stay away from heavy grinding on the edge. I can post a pic of the hand held blaster if you'd like. I have a big pressure blaster also however it is never needed on a Fiat, on thin metal it could warp the panel being blasted.

wikkid wrote:Great help. I actually got some pretty good color-matching help from a guy at TCP Global, so I would feel pretty good ordering paint from them for a good match.

You make my car work sound like a piece of cake, and it's true, there are no bad new paint jobs to remove, just faded, worn original paint.

Then there's the surface rust. I am working on how to understand how to deal with that: grinding/DA sanding it out? how you treat the metal before priming (I am thinking about rust treatment, to stabilize any little bits of remaining rust that might still be there)? How to deal with the rust at the edges of things, like along the thin edges of the door panels? I will keep looking out for new youtube entries!

-Chris

This is awesome stuff! I plan to go through the bodywork & paint on mine next winter, so I'll keep these videos bookmarked.

However: I would LOVE to know more about that red spider in the first post. the one with the reversed scoop on the hood?

Oh yeah, I made that scoop myself. That's a 75 124, hardtop, with 2.0L Lancia engine. Red with all trims blacked out.

maytag wrote:This is awesome stuff! I plan to go through the bodywork & paint on mine next winter, so I'll keep these videos bookmarked.

However: I would LOVE to know more about that red spider in the first post. the one with the reversed scoop on the hood?

I like it. I like it alot.
you got more pics of that somewhere?

Here, http://s1097.photobucket.com/albums/g34 ... 20hardtop/

maytag wrote:I like it. I like it alot.
you got more pics of that somewhere?

I really like the blacked-out look, might go that route with mine once I get to that stage of the restoration. Wonder how it would look with black rims.

fiat124fl wrote:Here, http://s1097.photobucket.com/albums/g34 ... 20hardtop/

maytag wrote:I like it. I like it alot.
you got more pics of that somewhere?

Awesome, the red Spider actually went up north with total black rims.

Landhawk wrote:I really like the blacked-out look, might go that route with mine once I get to that stage of the restoration. Wonder how it would look with black rims.

fiat124fl wrote:Here, http://s1097.photobucket.com/albums/g34 ... 20hardtop/

maytag wrote:I like it. I like it alot.
you got more pics of that somewhere?