Its not about weight, its about the moment of inertia (MOI). Since the flywheel has the largest diameter, it has the highest MOI of all the rotating components and in addition is it easiest to lower its MOI compared to the other components. While it is reasonable to ask "where do you stop?" it is also reasonable to ask "where do you start?" My answer is always with the flywheel because it has the largest overall effect per dollar, especially when most people are rebuilding their motors and need to resurface the flywheel too anyway.
FYI on the tilton clutches: unless you're going with a carbon/carbon setup you do NOT want to use these on the street. They are not designed to allow for slip, even their cerametallic rally clutches only allow for marginal slip, nothing like you experience on the street. So for streetability there really isn't much you can do to reduce the clutch MOI without spending $2400 on the carbon carbon.
Aluminum Flywheel
- Kingme2
- Posts: 291
- Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2009 1:04 am
- Your car is a: 1980 124 Spider
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
Re: Aluminum Flywheel
Normally I'd jump quickly onto the "buy the better one" bandwagon, but after that horrendous noise that came from under the hood (the noise that my mechanic told me means I get to start looking for an engine, yahoo!), thinking I may be able to afford to just machine it... especially if I have to expose the flywheel anyway...
Due to recent budget cuts and the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil, we have decided to turn off the light at the end of the tunnel. We apologize for any inconvenience.
1981 Fiat Spider, all black... "Corvino", italian for the Raven
1981 Fiat Spider, all black... "Corvino", italian for the Raven
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- Posts: 2623
- Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2006 2:08 pm
- Your car is a: 70 124 spider-74x19-03 ranger edge
- Location: San Dimas, Ca
Re: Aluminum Flywheel
i came up just shy of a 10 lb loss when i weighed my stock starter against my lt weight geared starter. my stock flywheel was laghtened usinging Crorfts specs in his book, the whole bottom end was balanced using his specs as a guide. my car revs extremly fast.
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- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Re: Aluminum Flywheel
I can attest to the practicality of a race clutch for street use. I had a Quartermaster 5.5" clutch on my 72 with an automatic tranny flexplate. It was awesome to drive because the engine would zing up in rpms like a motorcycle but I had a hell of a time starting from a dead stop and not spinning wheels or stalling it. There was no slip whatsoever. The clutch pedal was also hard to engage, which isn't the best choice for a girl at stoplights. I ended up going with a 10k RPM clutch and flywheel and have been extremely happy with it. The whole kit and kaboodle weighs 12 lbs and, although it is a bit stiffer than stock, it has a nice, precise feel and I lost a lot of rotating mass. Here's a pic of the Quartermaster setup.pastaroni34 wrote: FYI on the tilton clutches: unless you're going with a carbon/carbon setup you do NOT want to use these on the street. They are not designed to allow for slip, even their cerametallic rally clutches only allow for marginal slip, nothing like you experience on the street. So for streetability there really isn't much you can do to reduce the clutch MOI without spending $2400 on the carbon carbon.
1972 124 Spider (Don)
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!