Engine Swap Questions and Progress (was "Rebirth!")

[azygoustoyou]

Thanks guys! I was looking at my headers today and saw that they are covered with rust. I have a sand blaster. I figure I could blast the system and paint it with some VHT pipe paint. I was wondering though, is there a point where I would just be wasting my money working on these ones. I'm figuring they are rusting from the inside and outside. Should I sandblast them and then check their condition? They are 4-2-1. I have the hump in the floor pans for the catalytic but it has been removed on the system.. I can pretty much do anything. Even though, I'm just learning the mechanical side of things. I appreciate all your suggestions and knowledge. I will have the car completely apart as soon as it is warmer. I'll start a new post so I don't take up this one.

[So Cal Mark]

take the radiator out, just bumping the engine into it will punch a hole. I've got all of the individual gaskets in stock, much easier than making your own

[SpiderHead]

take the radiator out, just bumping the engine into it will punch a hole. I've got all of the individual gaskets in stock, much easier than making your own

Faster, and more accurate too!

I used to cut some of my own gaskets when rebuilding pumps, but as the workload increased. I found that getting them cut for me by a pro was actually quite a bit cheaper. Even would have been cheaper from day one.

Buy dem gaskets Steeeeeeve!

-Ryan

[fiasco]

Thanks for the feedback - again!

Mark - I'll try to have a list of gaskets I need early in the week so I can make sure I have time to get out there and get them before next Saturday.

The radiator is coming out - hopefully tomorrow.

So what was the large rubber gasket TulsaSpider was talking about?
And what do I use to seal the studs on the exhaust manifold?
Mark or Ryan - can you remind me what the stuff is called that you said I should use to repair that little 90 degree hose that comes out of the cyclonic trap (now that I know what a cyclonic trap is )

Remind me again why I didn't just part this car out. . . oh yeah, now I remember. . .

. . . may need some fat white walls though.

[SpiderHead]

RTV. Its simply a silicon product. Blue is the stuff they use for most gaskets. Mark mentioned Black.

It is sold in tubes at every corner autobits store in the world.

Its the duct tape of goop.



-Ryan

[mdrburchette]

Thanks guys! I was looking at my headers today and saw that they are covered with rust. I have a sand blaster. I figure I could blast the system and paint it with some VHT pipe paint. I was wondering though, is there a point where I would just be wasting my money working on these ones. I'm figuring they are rusting from the inside and outside. Should I sandblast them and then check their condition? They are 4-2-1. I have the hump in the floor pans for the catalytic but it has been removed on the system.. I can pretty much do anything. Even though, I'm just learning the mechanical side of things. I appreciate all your suggestions and knowledge. I will have the car completely apart as soon as it is warmer. I'll start a new post so I don't take up this one.

The 4-2-1 manifold is the better stock setup. I seriously doubt the rust has hurt them. I would clean them up and consider having them ceramic coated at this point. They will do it inside and out and you won't ever have to worry about it again. It also reduces engine compartment temps. If you don't have the $100 it takes, then there are hi temp paints you can use to make it presentable for a couple years.

[TulsaSpider]

Steve, if you read that post the previous owner had errantly installed a large rubber gasket in the cyclonic trap, I replaced it with a new one while replacing my head gasket. The gasket totally blocked the trap (the old one was deformed and let some air by). The result of this was oil puking out the vent hose by the quart!! Not something I would recommend!
I would recommend buying a gasket kit, it would be cheaper in the long run. it's so easy to change out gaskets like the oil pan, fuel pump, cyclonic trap, distributor, intake gasket etc while the engine is out of the car. Plus you get all those gaskets you may need in the future. Best to change all you can change now! I got a very nice Fel Pro head gasket set for about $50, not sure how much more the whole set would be couldn't be much more, I think I got just about everything except the oil pan gasket. As for "fixing the 90 degree hose I wouldn't recommend it. You can order one from a vendor or Mark may have them, however I went down to the parts store and found a heater hose I cut down that worked perfectly!

[fiasco]

Made some progress today on getting the old engine out. Next step is to remove the starter, which looks like it's going to be a bear. Anyone got any advice on how to go about this task? Tips and tricks?

Thanks,
-- se

[So Cal Mark]

you need a long extension with a 13mm swivel socket, remove the bolts from the bottom. Don't worry about getting the starter out, just remove it once you start to lift the engine out

[rlux4]

There is no easy way Steve. You'll need to experiment with the right combination of extensions and either a swivel socket or a universal to get the right line on the bolts. It's one of those things that's a lot easier once you've done it and figured it out. The good news is, putting it back together is a lot easier, at least it was for me.
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

especially if you install one of the nifty, small, lightweight gear reduction starters

[spiderrey]

stop pimpin ur self out mark

[So Cal Mark]

just trying to help Steve out. Carrying that heavy wallet isn't good for his back

[spiderrey]

oh, like this heavy starter.

10 lbs less after jenny craig

[So Cal Mark]

exactly! who would want one of those antiquated relics on the right when they could have the nifty performace piece on the left?