Let the painting begin... Abarth.. why not :)

[baltobernie]

The shop that did my car used single-stage, and I think that if you're using a non-metallic paint, this will give you good results. Single or clear, you're still going to spend about 25 hours sanding and compounding the finished paint; that's where the total job "comes alive". IMHO, the big advantage of clear is that small scratches during the car's lifetime are much less noticable.

[pope]

The other thing is that when you wax and polish you car with single stage, the color of the paint will end up on the rag and not so with clear. Of course this probably wont happen the first year, but as the paint starts to oxyidize a little.

[joshuagore]

Ok so here are some more questions....
Why do I have to worry about how well red covers black if I am priming the entire car?
If I end up having to be concerned about coverage of red over black regardless of priming the car, then it sounds like single stage is the way to go? Can you clear a single stage job?

Josh

p.s. I appreciate all the advice.

[pope]

No, you dont have to worry about black when you are priming the car. The only reason that people have brought this up is that red is one of the hardest paints to use. It usually cost the most and takes more coats to cover. Red does not do well with covering over darker surfaces. Just use a red, lt. grey or white primer. I would not clear a single-stage because it is not made for it. Single-stage contains the gloss, so you would have to sand the gloss off before you clear it. Base coat is a flat color, so no need to sand or deshine. I would definitely use a sealer coat over the primer before you paint. We dont want anything underneath bleeding into the red. You spray a sealer at the same time you stray the paint, just let it flash off first then spray your paint.

All these question?...I thought you'd have it painted by now! Come on...we want pictures. LOL

[mdrburchette]

The poly/clear method is more forgiving than the single stage method in my opinion. It's more expensive but you can sand out imperfections easier.

[launieg]

I've been lurking on this thread with great interest, since I will be painting my car this winter. I thought I understood, until this last one:

The poly/clear method is more forgiving than the single stage method in my opinion. It's more expensive but you can sand out imperfections easier.

Why is it easier to sand out? I would have thought that sanding one "color" (as in a single stage) would be more forgiving than sanding through a clear coat to get to the color coat. Can you clarify? (I've little to none painting experience, and none with modern paints.) Thanks.

[mdrburchette]

The colorcoat is not sprayed on heavily and it dries quickly so you're not apt to get runs in it. We use at least 3 coats of clear in case you do get a run or orange peel and these can be wet sanded and buffed out with less chance of going through the paint. Of course, this is just my opinion.

[joshuagore]

The colorcoat is not sprayed on heavily and it dries quickly so you're not apt to get runs in it. We use at least 3 coats of clear in case you do get a run or orange peel and these can be wet sanded and buffed out with less chance of going through the paint. Of course, this is just my opinion.

This makes a ton of sense to me now. I am going 2 stage.

Friday I pickup the paint around noon, I have not figured out what color red I am going with, anyone have a paint code for the CSA? Friday afternoon I am setting up my temporary downdraft. 2 Filters, and 2 fans, and a sealed off bay.

I will then mount the rockers, hood, and trunk to an A Frame that is laying around the shop. These parts will all be flat black so I can wheel them around independent of the car. I will likely start by priming/sealing those small parts, roll them into a secondary staging area which will also be tarped off, then roll the car in. The car will be primed and will sit until its dry, and then everything will be wheeled outside. I will then sand all the items, and the car. The car will go in first for its color/clear. After the car has its color/clear it will be pushed into the secondary staging area, and the a frame with the hanging parts will be rolled in for flat black. The flat black will sit, and then be pushed out Sunday morning. Assuming all it looks good with the flat black they will stay hanging until the body is ready for installation. At this point the car will be rolled out and inspected. I get the feeling any wet sanding to the clear is going to have to wait for a few weeks. I will likely wait to install the body panels until the clear has been wet sanded.

If all goes to this plan then the stars will have aligned, but its likely the process will be filled with all sorts of ummmm detours. Either way the car is getting painted and I am not going to rush it

Josh

[baltobernie]

You are sanding after priming? Have you looked at this product?
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCa ... b7e520df08
Sealer & no-sand primer in one product. Color coat 30 minutes after application.

[engineerted]

It is best to wait 2-4 weeks before you color sand(sanding the clear)and buffing, All paint shrinks over time and if you sand too soon you will have to do it again, because orange peel will comback if the paint has not completely shurnk. There are fast drying clears and there are really fast drying clears, so read the lables on the cans/product sheets they will tell you recomended drying times, the more coats you apply the longer you will have to wait. I would recomend 4 coats of clear for a first timer.

Ted

[mdrburchette]

You are sanding after priming? Have you looked at this product?
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCa ... b7e520df08
Sealer & no-sand primer in one product. Color coat 30 minutes after application.

PPG DP40 is the expoxy primer we use. It's great for sealing bare metal, it's easy to sand and you can paint right over it. You can also use it to build up low or wavy spots. If you've never done a paint job, talk to the guys at the paint store. They can offer tips and answer any questions you have.
As for wet sanding and buffing, I'd ask about the specific brand you're using. I know of one clearcoat (Glasurit) that is extremely difficult to buff after sitting a while. I was buffing a truck bedside for a friend after he'd wetsanded it and I couldn't get it to buff out. I even burned through the clear. He'll be reclearing that truck bed.

[pope]

All I can say is...the price of paint will give you sticker shock.

[joshuagore]

All I can say is...the price of paint will give you sticker shock.

The shock came well before I made the decision to run the DA down the side of the car.

Josh

[joshuagore]

Day 3-8

I have spent the most of my time working on the 1 panel that had the dot of rust. It is the passengers side quarter. The rest of the panels aside from the rockers were mostly rust free. The rockers were obviously removed, and the doors are there, but ready to be removed for painting, and jam prep. It is going to be a long weekend, but its either now or never, I have a few race weekends in September which I am sure would push this project well beyond the 'required' completion date. That completion date is my anniversary trip. A trip my wife expects to be taking in the Fiat

Josh

[joshuagore]

Car is painted, wetsanding nibs/orange peel starts tonight. I see it lasting awhile. Pics to come shortly.

Josh