Painting car

Keeping it sharp - paint, wax, detailing, etc.
baltobernie
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Your car is a: 1973 Spider [sold]
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Re: Painting car

Post by baltobernie »

rjkoop wrote:For financial reasons I'd like to prep and paint it myself. - am I crazy?
"Crazy" is too strong. "Ill-conceived" is nicer.

Unless you want to learn how to paint cars for a living, you will be much further ahead (both in results and in $$) to do all of the prep and post-spray work yourself, and have a pro shoot it. Find a local shop who will work with you, and follow their recommendations regarding everything.
tsunami01

Re: Painting car

Post by tsunami01 »

regarding guns, lvlp for bases and clears or single stages is the way to go. using hvlp for primers. build primers will shoot best with large tip say 1.8 mm due to viscosity of product. i use 1.4 or 1.5 for high solids clear and single stage. euro pro sells some very nice quality guns that are entry level priced. i recently acquired their euro pro evo t lvlp and can tell you this is an amazing gun for the money (100 dollars amazon) only 19 psi and virtually no orange peel. i might suggest getting a junk yard hood or fender to use for practice spraying. if you mess up, knock it off and go again without recourse to sheetmetal you actually care about.good luck.
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rjkoop
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Your car is a: 1981 Fiat Spider
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Re: Painting car

Post by rjkoop »

baltobernie wrote:
rjkoop wrote:For financial reasons I'd like to prep and paint it myself. - am I crazy?
"Crazy" is too strong. "Ill-conceived" is nicer.

Unless you want to learn how to paint cars for a living, you will be much further ahead (both in results and in $$) to do all of the prep and post-spray work yourself, and have a pro shoot it. Find a local shop who will work with you, and follow their recommendations regarding everything.
I get what you're saying. But if I can do this job well I can see this being the most satisfying work on the car (especially to a color I really love). It also allows me to accumulate a few nice tools which I can use for other jobs. I have 3 vehicles, 5 teenage drivers so I'm thinking I'll probably need to repaint/fix a panel or too in the future. :(
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rjkoop
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Your car is a: 1981 Fiat Spider
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Re: Painting car

Post by rjkoop »

tsunami01 wrote:regarding guns, lvlp for bases and clears or single stages is the way to go. using hvlp for primers. build primers will shoot best with large tip say 1.8 mm due to viscosity of product. i use 1.4 or 1.5 for high solids clear and single stage. euro pro sells some very nice quality guns that are entry level priced. i recently acquired their euro pro evo t lvlp and can tell you this is an amazing gun for the money (100 dollars amazon) only 19 psi and virtually no orange peel. i might suggest getting a junk yard hood or fender to use for practice spraying. if you mess up, knock it off and go again without recourse to sheetmetal you actually care about.good luck.
Great info. I have a section of sheet metal left over from when I did the floor repair. I'll probably start with a section of this for practice. I think doing this from prep, primer, sanding, base coat, clear coat and buffing will give me a really clear indicator of what I can achieve without touching the car.

The prices are all over the map on the guns.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/High-Quality-Com ... 2edadee5d1
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SPRAYIT-SP-33000 ... 566e3d9f8c

These ones come with various nozzles as well. I'll checkout some reviews.
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rjkoop
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Re: Painting car

Post by rjkoop »

Are random orbital sanders the same as dual action sanders? I'm looking at an electric one.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/RIDGID-5-Random- ... 23474451ac

I don't think the compressor will keep up with a DA air one and the electric will be quieter.

If they're not the same than can someone recommend an electric DA sander?
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azruss
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Re: Painting car

Post by azruss »

I have an electric DA and they work just fine. I dont recommend the velco pad and paper. I prefer the rubber pad and the sticky-back paper. May need to get that from an Auto paint supply house. DA (dual action) and RO (random orbit) are the same. Stick with a high quality brand. The counterbalance will be better and wont shake the skin off your fingers. :mrgreen:
tsunami01

Re: Painting car

Post by tsunami01 »

just remember to use a taper edge foam backing pad of sufficient thickness. the thinner and harder pads that come standard on some sanders wont give you the results your looking for on a spider body. the curves you will be dealing with need the thicker foam to contour to the curves and give a more consistent contact area. be sure to get a size that paper is readily available for in your area. where im at 6 inch disc paper is most common. 5 inch has to ordered. i use mirka gold or indasa rhynostick disc to save money over 3m.
paulwall
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Re: Painting car

Post by paulwall »

one of your prob.will be dust I have have painted in my garage many cars ..and always buy plenty of poly .sheeting for the roof and sides ..try to make a tent around the car with as much room as pos.to get around and keep the floor damp..go for it you will surprise your self.......Paul
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RRoller123
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Re: Painting car

Post by RRoller123 »

"keep the floor damp". Now that is brilliant. No raised dust. There are many times this would come in handy. Thanks for sharing.
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rjkoop
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Re: Painting car

Post by rjkoop »

Silly question (probably). It's winter up here in Ottawa and I have some spare time and a nice (though non-heated) garage to work in. Can I do a lot of the sanding down to bare metal (using the DA/RO sander) and then not apply epoxy primer until spring? I was thinking about rubbing a light coat of spray/oil (WD-40 maybe) on the panels to ensure things don't rust. In spring I'd clean off the oil, do a final sand (to remove any minor rust that may have occurred over the winter), apply bondo (when temp above 15c or so) and then epoxy primer. Or maybe just leave the exposed metal and it shouldn't rust much over the winter in a dry garage.

I'm so impatient! :D
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azruss
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Re: Painting car

Post by azruss »

I wouldn't leave the bare metal or do the oil thing. Both would require a lot of prep work in the spring. Catalytic paints are good at drying without heat. Just add more hardener to give it a harder kick. Try to pick the warmest part of the day and remember the paint will stay wet much longer and will want to run, so keep your coats light, keep the gun farther from the paint surface and give double the normal time between coats.
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azruss
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Re: Painting car

Post by azruss »

one more thing, keep your paints, catalyst, and solvent inside and warm as long as you can before you spray. in between coats, take the paint gun inside the house to keep it warm.
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rjkoop
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Re: Painting car

Post by rjkoop »

Yep. Think it's best to wait until spring.

And does anyone have thoughts on sanding down to bare metal versus just removing clear/scuffing down to existing base coat/primer? I'm probably going to change color from cream to red. It's a lot more work to sand down to bare metal and there are very few issues with existing paint (ie. no cracking, minimal surface rust). There are a few spots that I'd sand down to bare metal to fix these issues but is it worth sanding down entire car?
wizard124
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Your car is a: 1980 124 spider FI
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Re: Painting car

Post by wizard124 »

Richard, I have been following this post for awhile now. I went through your exact deliberations last year. I, too, would love to get good at body work and paint. A co-worker almost had me convinced to give it a try........ :?

I have a 2 car garage. I also did a color change so everything was stripped and removed except for the steering and brakes. Engine, transmission, radiator, grills, fuel tank, seats, windshield.....you get where I am coming from. You need to decide to what extent you are happy with a color change. Can you accept seeing the old when you look through the grills, open a door or trunk, engine bay. Does the job look complete? Or, half way?

By the time I had stripped all I could and boxed and tubbed the parts. Engine on a wheeled stand. Transmission in a corner...I was darn near out of room and tripping on things. Barely leaving room to get around the car to sand and paint. I also discovered rust on the door sill which would require new sheet metal and welding (not something I was wanting to deal with).

Itemize the tools, parts, respirator, paints and supplies you need to do this and add up the costs. Tent your work area and/or dust everywhere and on everything!

Believe me, there is a huge effort in stripping the car. I came to the conclusion that after all the work and time I was putting into this, I wanted professional results. Miracle Auto Paint, 2 stage urethane for $3200. Very satisfied!
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rjkoop
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Re: Painting car

Post by rjkoop »

I hear ya. I have lots of time to think about it before spring. I may see if I can accumulate the auto body items for a good cost... compressor (recently saw a local 30 gallon newer compressor for $100 but it sold too fast), LVLP (SprayIt on ebay for $50), DA/RO sander (look for sales - saw one 40% off for $35 new at Cdn Tire), etc... and then re-evaluate in spring. I can use most of these items for other jobs in the garage anyways. On the teenagers' beater car (Nissan Sentra) I already know I need to fix the front quarter panel (rust coming through where local auto body place did a crap repair job - which they charged $700 for!).

I love working on this car but I understand that this is a big job. I'm not doing the engine area though. I'll do the inside edge of the engine compartment but won't do the rest until I have a need to remove the engine (hopefully never?). Also I've already replaced the rocker panels with new ones, removed the plastic fender wheel well pieces while doing the front suspension, etc... so I know that the car doesn't need any welding. And other than a few rust bubbles the body panels are in great shape.
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