You can get the hard and soft fuel lines from the various vendors, Auto Ricambi is my personal favorite. The soft lines are 8mm.

Pete

Is it a terribly difficult job to complete?

Not at all. You will observe that there aren't very many fuel lines on your car, and they are not high pressure.

Disconnect the battery before starting, and no smoking. Use the proper fuel line clamps that won't gouge the line like normal hose clamps do.

Thanks. I am in the process of getting this car started for the first time and seeing that i had to order a new tank i thought i would go ahead and replace the fuel lines.

So last night I went out and purchased new fuel lines and had to buy a new negative battery terminal.

Unhooked the old fuel tank and replaced the fuel lines and tank. Also added the battery terminal. I had a buddy of mine there who has restored 4 cars in his day. Everything to him was “No big deal, if anything we go to plan B”. to me it is “holly crap this is bad”. I guess that is the difference between a veteran and a rookie.

Anyway, got everything hooked up and attempted a start and the engine was ceased! To me “holy crap this is bad!” to him “no big deal drop that marvals mystery oil down let it sit, we should be ok”.

So this is where I am at. Going to attempt a start on Wednesday night and see what happens. If that doesn’t work apparently it is no big deal, “We’ll just pull the engine out and re build it, whats the big deal?”

I’ll attempt to post pictures when I have some time. I just want to keep moving forward.

So the start was a failure. The engine did not turn. My buddy recommended putting more Mystery Oil and sit for another couple days.

Tonight or tomorrow (whenever i get out there) am going to attempt to remove the cap on the nut to attempt to hand crank the engine. If i can't get the engine moving i guess taking the engine out is the next step.

Once i give it a try i'll post what happens!

In the mean time i will also be starting some of the cosmetic stuff. Mine as well work on the small insignificant stuff while it is not turning over!

Have you done the timing belt yet. If not, you may want to look at your current belt to see if it is in one piece. I would also check the cam timing, particularly the aux shaft. If it is off, the crank can hit the aux shaft lobe and lock the motor up. All this is still in the "aint no big deal" category.

OK...figured how to get pictures online. Need some assistance. (FYI please do not roast me if i say that something is X when it really is Y...i am just learning! Be Gentle

Last night i attempted to hand crank the engine and found that the alternator belt is in the way of the crank nut. Below are pictures of the manual that i have. I believe i have to remove the alternator belt but not sure how to losen the belt to remove it. Can someone guide me onto how i get at the nut i need to hand turn the engine? I should also mention that i removed all 6 screws from the bottom pulley of the alternator belt.

The bottom pulley is what i am attempted to get out of the way...



Here is what i have for the Timing Belt...I believe i have to get at the last gear at the bottom in order to hand crank but looking for validation on that...

Its been a while since i've messed with a 1438. (40 years). As I recall that front crank pulley cover houses a centrifugal oil slinger. The motor can be rotated via the exhaust cam pulley (more teeth engaged than the intake). Need to be careful because you can slip a cog. If you pull the plugs, the motor is easier to turn over. At TDC, the index mark on the aux pulley should be between 12:30 and 2:30 to have crank clearance. As I recall, the alternator belt is so short they used a split pulley for the water pump. You should be able to loosen the Alternator mount bolts to rotate it in and out for belt tension. Another way to check the alt shaft timing is this way. The cam pulleys and the aux shaft pulley are the same size. That means for each rotation of those three pulleys, the crankshaft rotates twice. So without rotating the motor, you can calculate whether the aux shaft is timed correctly. Say, the index marks of the cam pulleys are 35 degrees from the marker, you can measure that 35 degrees on the aux shaft and see if it would be in the 12:30 to 2:30 window.

OK...so I am back. Lots of stuff has happened since i wrote last. we had our house on the market (which we didn't sell) and also purchased a new house. between getting the old house ready to sell, moving then of course the holidays i have done nothing. when we moved i had the car towed over and has been sitting in my new garage. the plus, my new garage is much larger. my previous garage was basically wide enough to fit the Fiat.

So where do i stand now you ask?? The same exact place as before. I am brand new to cars and my friend who was going to help me really only helped a couple of times and has not been available much at all. Still can't get any of the belts to move. i was out there tonight for about an hour attempting again.

The reason i got the fiat was to learn about cars but am thinking i may bring it to a mechanics and maybe get it running. I really want to do it myself as the purpose of the car.

With this in mind i would appreciate some thoughts. Should i maybe work on some of the cosmetic things between getting assistance on the mechanical items? just thinking if i can make progress somewhere i will feel the project is moving forward...

Is there anybody in New Hampshire that could give Mike a hand?

If its a standard then put it in fifth gear, release the parking brake and just rock it back and forth by leaning on the bumper letting the drive train gently jog it while watching for any movement of the crank. On a standard it could be just that the clutch disk has formed stiction to the flywheel or pressure plate so if you have not done so try engaging the starter with the transmission in neutral. No real need on a stick to stress the valve train and timing belt. You can also thin the Mystery Oil or Dexron poured in the cylinders with some K1 Kerosene (usually available in gallon cans at Ace Hardware) to help it penetrate better.

MILESTONE! Last night I was able to get to the crankshaft with a large socket. With the help of my neighbor we were able to get the engine free and I am happy to say it moves on its own with the starter!! I can now make some progress.

Next step I already ordered a carb repair kit to rebuild the carb as the inside is very dirty. Once complete we will attempt to get it started. My neighbor also has a compression tester so once we can get it going we will test compression!

I am very glad I did not send the car to someone to get started. It was very rewarding the feeling last night to actually get it turned. I know I have a long way to go but very happy for the small win!

You can test the compression before starting it, just pull all the plugs and do it with the engine cranking over. No need to wait!