Head gasket project

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 1:38 pm

Thanks Chris...

I will do this and save the hassle. Just didin't want to assume anything and make a mess of the nut. Experience is the answer and you made out well so I will follow.

Thanks again...
Bill

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:11 pm

Update...

Crank nut came off without a hitch... head lifted off well and revealed the area where the head gasket failed. Now I need some advice... I'm going to explain the best I can so excuse the lack of knowledge... The area between cylinder 1 & 2 has a pited spot that caused the gasket to fail. What should I do? Buy a rebuilt head from IAP or should I try to get it repaired here in Maine? Probably a dumb question but I'm going to ask anyway... Is there anything I can personally do to patch this spot. I appreciate all creative ideas.

Thanks for your help.
Bill

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:55 pm

if there is pitting, you should be able to get the head repaired locally. The head can be welded, then surfaced. Even if you decide to buy a rebuilt head, they may hit you with a core charge due to the damaged head.

Before you go too crazy with the head, check the block closely in that area. Extended use with a blown head gasket can also damage the block. Clean it thoroughly, then use a straightedge to look for warpage or erosion.

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 10:22 am

Thanks Mark... Good advice... I'll explore getting it locally repaired. So far all looks pretty good.

Later,
Bill

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:47 pm

Today I got he head back from being repaired. The word is that the area was so small it should be fine after the polishing the heads area of concern, it was also true. The gasket that a previous owner had installed was not correct and was also cemented down which caused the gasket to become actually loose once it became fragile. The guy asked me if it was tight when I removed it and it wasn't so he's sure it was loose which caused most of the problem (I did my best to explain what he basically said. Funny thing he was way more concerned by the (2) spark plug sockets which were in rough shape socket 2 & 4. I was shown how to tread chase them back into shape. He cautioned me to treat spark plug changes like a surgeon cause the 4th plug is tricky as we all know and they go in on an angle. He told me to do it by hand until you're sure it's going right, then torque as noted on the plugs box depending on washer. I had trouble with socket 4 in the past and when I had the compression tested they shop who has a great import reputation they made the same error replacing the plug how I got home last year is a mystery. Anyway with the head off it was really easy to fix it well and the new plugs hand spun in like they should. In the future, I will remember that trick.. it was a miracle. It was looking like this was going to be scrapped. All should be fine now. I placed the head on and torqued them in the right sequence to 25lbs and then will let it set overnight and then torque to 61 lbs. Is this the best torque number? The book said 61lbs. What do you pros think and will I need to torque it again after it's run a while (providing it does when I'm done)!

I'll get to the timing belt tomorrow and keep at it.

later,
Bill

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:06 pm

61 lbs is right, make sure you lubricate the bolts and washers. As for the spark plugs, get in the habit of always using antiseize on the plug threads. I like to use antiseize on any bolts going into aluminum, especially any that go through water passages.

Retorquing will depend on what type of head gasket you used. Either way, it won't hurt to recheck the torque after running the engine and letting it cool completely.

Did your machinist also adjust the valves for you?

sidney fiat · Post by **sidney fiat** » Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:05 am

Hey Bill , Its great to here things are working out . Scott

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:03 pm

So Cal Mark...

I didn't have the valves adjusted ...yet... probably going to regret not going all the way now. I did more reassembly tonight and all is going well. I did go by the book on the timing belt as well and I'm probably worrying for nothing since the crank mark, adjustment hole point to tensioner bolt and the holes line up on each cam. I wanted to get the cam holes absolutely prefect but if I try to get prefection it would make things worst, I think I need to relax it can't get any more aligned. Moving forward I assembled the timing covers and next the radiator and hoses. Hey is there a trick to getting my distributor back in the right position? I had it out when the directions told me to turn the crank a couple times to verify timing marks so now I need to get the distributor in position. Any tips to do this right?

Thanks in advance.

PS. Scott (Sidney Fiat) I wonder what the campus pool odds are that I'm gonna have my ride working? Ralph and Dave been encouragingly curious too. Stop by the office and I'll entertain you with a few good stories about my progress.

Later,
Bill

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:15 pm

just remember when installing the distributor, that the rotor should point to #4 with all of the timing marks aligned.

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:22 am

Mark,

Thanks that is a big help I was wondering if I was headed in the right direction on the distributor.

I have a Radiator question. Should I use straight antifreeze or a mixture of 50 anti and 50 water? Since it's cold here in Maine can I use all antifreeze? When I removed the radiator and hoses it drained well but come to think of it I didn't drain the block. Partly cause I didn't easily see the blocks drain and forgot about it since it wasn't necessary. Should I reuse the old antifreeze if it looks good? Not being cheap I just don't know what to do with the old stuff and wonder if it's feasible to use. No rust and the radiator was super clean. The antifreeze I collected is very clean. What do you think?

Thanks,
Bill

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:26 pm

I'd use new antifreeze with distilled water, at least a 50/50 mix since antifreeze reacts chemically with water to give protection and reduces corrosion.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:33 pm

definitely mix the antifreeze 50/50 with water. Straight antifreeze won't cool as well as the mix will. If the old stuff looks really clean with dark color you could probably reuse it. Be aware though that ethylene glycol (green) antifreeze breaks down after about 2 yrs and you'll start getting hard crusty deposits in the cooling system

If you decide to replace the coolant, dispose of the old stuff properly. Most any place that accepts waste oil will take it. 1 gal of antifreeze can contaminate about 20,000 gals of water, so it's best not to dump it down the sewer. And, it's deadly to small animals that might drink it

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 9:23 am

Right! I have the old stuff saved in 2 liter bottles and I'll check our towns recycling center to dispose of it properly. I'm aware that this is really bad for the environment and animals. I meticulously captured and wiped the garage floor so my dog wouldn't get into it. Thanks, I purchased the 50/50 stuff so I wouldn't need to add water.

I'm getting anxious to fire it up.

Later,
Billl

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Fri Apr 28, 2006 7:51 pm

Mark,

Distributor question... When you say have the rotor point to #4 with timing marks aligned,do you mean that the rotor button needs to point to #4 on the distributor cap which then the wire goes to the #4 spark plug?

This is what we did and I'm asking for your confirmation.

Thanks,
Bill

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 12:46 am

yes, you've got it right