Good for you Glyn. I think you've overcome the first hurdle by the commitment. It'll get easier and easier with each step.

So Csaba. If he did have bent valves what would that cost and how long would the repair time be? Would he have to remove the head? Doesn't appear to be too much of a project.

Well, good news and bad news. Good news short with timing belt arriving today and getting a Vick’s order catalog. Now for the dreaded bad news, I was unable to turn the cams to get timing belt to line up. Cannot even make a complete circle on either cam and hard to turn when it can. I’m assuming bent valves. Do I need to remove the engine or can I just pull head and complete the work? I wanted to change oil seal on aux and main. Is there a seal on backside of motor, needing to pull engine out? There is a lot of oil over the bottom of motor and transmission even a little on exhaust pipe that has not burned off. It was over full with oil when I checked it. Not sure what’s next but it seems major. If I can’t do it I will need to sell now, the mechanic down the road wanted over $1000 to do the work with motor out of car. Suggestions welcome.

Glyn, where are you located? Maybe someone is close and can lend a hand. Don't sell! You can fix it.

I live in Lake Charles, Louisiana. I dont mind trying to fix it, I can call on local help in needed. Just not sure what what I need next.

> Good news short with timing belt arriving today and getting a Vick’s order catalog.

Why is that good news? [see my signature]

> I was unable to turn the cams to get timing belt to line up. Cannot even make a complete circle on either cam and hard to >turn when it can. I’m assuming bent valves.

A bent valve would not cause this. There are a couple of possibilities. There is a cover and the rear of each camtower, held on by three 10mm bolts. Loosen these and see if it's easier to turn the cam. The thickness of this cover's gasket determines how much front to back play is in the cam so they were available in several thicknesses. If yours is too thin, then the cover might be binding up the cams.
The other possibility is that the engine was overheated, the head is warped and it's warping the camtowers thus binding the cams.

>Do I need to remove the engine or can I just pull head and complete the work?

Likely the head will need to come off.

> I wanted to change oil seal on aux and main. Is there a seal on backside of motor, needing to pull engine out?

Yes, there is a seal at the rear of the crankshaft, if it leaks it usually drips down the flywheel and out of the transmission bellhousing.

>There is a lot of oil over the bottom of motor and transmission even a little on exhaust pipe that has not burned off.

Is there oil on the side of the motor? It is not uncommon for the distributor or the cantowe-to-head gasket to leak.
Also the #2 and #4 exhaust studs thread into an oil return passage, so if they fall out a lot of oil will leak out.

> Not sure what’s next but it seems major.

Try loosening those plates and lets go from there.

I'm wondering if it would just be easier to find a good running engine or a parts car with one.

Thoughts?

>I'm wondering if it would just be easier to find a good running engine or a parts car with one.

It would be, but most used engines are usually pretty worn out. But it's worth a look.

Ok just pulled head off. Number four is full of liquid and sided are not smooth like other three. Also still cant turn crank around, moves about 1/2 inch back and forth with the pistons moving up and down about 1/8 inch. Any suggestions on what to do next? Buy new motor or sell car?

Do these motors have a sleeve in the block? My dad change out a few of these over the years on the farm equipment just did not know if these small motors had them.

Look for a motor.

pull the motor,tear it apart ! boar it out buy new pistons and rods
have someone put it back together.
youll be happy

or buy a short block $1300
and save time

>Do these motors have a sleeve in the block?

No, no sleeves.

> Also still cant turn crank around, moves about 1/2 inch back and forth with the pistons moving up and down about 1/8 >inch.

That is weird. The only time I've seen this is when the cylinders were rusty under the pistons, but I don't think your motor sat for all that long.

>Any suggestions on what to do next? Buy new motor or sell car?

Your options are to either rebuild this motor or find another one. I'd be cheaper to find a good used engine, the problem is to find one close to you. But it's certainly worth some effort, I've been surprised before by what people found.

Back in business! Thanks to DMWhiteOak I went up and picked up a running motor this past week, thanks again DM. He saved me a $100 in hoses when I found out I did not need all those emissions lines. I think I bought the greasiest car known to mankind. I have been trying to de-grease for days now. Finally got the bulk of grease off, but still needs gloves whenever I touch just about anything. Will start on rebuilding of brakes while I wait on order of rubber bushing for all steering system to come in, along with new motor mounts, transmission mount, etc. I was ready to sell within the first two weeks but feel more confident as I start the long road of restoration.


Backed out to de-grease.


Engine out and semi clean. Pic did not stay flipped when saved.


Interior striped down. Again pic did not stay flipped when saved.


Running out of room in shop, had to move mower out.


Made temp shelf to store parts


Other side of shop where parts or stored, sanded, and painted. My wife is helping on this area.

Good to hear Glyn! It only gets easier and you become more comfortable with the car as each new project is completed.

Keep us updated.

thats awesome glyn, keep up the good work. I too am intimidated by my car but really enjoy working on it and LOVE driving it. you will be happy when its done and feel a great senseof accomplishment