124 Spider Brake Upgrades

vcg · Post by **vcg** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 1:01 pm

I use Tarox G88 discs front and rear. Ferodo DS2500 FCP29 front pads, and Mintex MDB1008 1155 compound rear pads.

I use that on my BC1 racer nad my street BS1. Don't have to change rims or calipers, they are standard size. Pretty expensive stuff, but lasts long.

This brake stuff combination allows me to outbrake many serious racecars in 2.1Km circuit 15 lap FIA Historic Race Championship races with my 155HP BC1.

spiderrey · Post by **spiderrey** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 1:15 pm

what is the approx cost of these parts. and u say u can use 13 inch wheels ?

vcg · Post by **vcg** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 1:32 pm

I said they are standard size, like OEM. Yes they are perfect for 13" rims. Cost in Europe is 90 Euro for a pair of G88, 75 Euro for the DS2500 and 95 Euro for the Mintex 1155. Total 90+90+75+95=350 Euro or 420 USD.

vcg · Post by **vcg** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 1:36 pm

Forgot to say you got to use good brake fluid. The best is Motul Racing 600, or find something similar.

Of course all of the above is more brakes than most will ever need in any circustance other than the circuit...

Joe Clemente · Post by **Joe Clemente** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:04 pm

Sorry Rey,

I should have clarified, my own system uses 11" discs hence the need for 15" wheels.
Tarox 4 or six piston calipers are not going to work with 13" wheels. But as Vassilis points out, they do make OEM size discs for the 124 Spider - 227mm, in G88 or Sport Japan (drilled and slotted) spec to use with your standard calipers.

spiderrey · Post by **spiderrey** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 9:02 pm

yes, i understood your system used larger discs. you explained that very well. i dont hesitate going a little overboard on the mods 4 my car, but i really like the nos campanola,s i put on it. they r 13 iches. ive seen the same wheels in 14, but that still wont work with the tarox calipers in your set up. this set up just might do the trick for me and help keep my car looking some what old skool, cept for thet bulge in the hood to clean the carbs. planning on grafting the bump off a mitsu eclipse onto my flat 70 hood. i think it should look pretty cool.

bandit · Post by **bandit** » Tue May 02, 2006 9:55 pm

Hi Vassilis

I was wondering about the brake pads you are running how do
they feel on your street car and are the racing pads like the
type that need to warm up before they feel good ?

Daniel

vcg · Post by **vcg** » Fri May 05, 2006 6:57 pm

They have a good bite from cold, so they are good for street from the begining. For their max braking power however, they need to be warmed up.

bandit · Post by **bandit** » Sun May 07, 2006 3:13 pm

Thanks Vassili

I was wondering what set are you running on the street car ? you post
3 types of pads i am geussing the Tarox for the race car ? and the other
ones on your driver or maybe you change pads for the track type .

It's time to do my brakes and I am going to upgrade them as well ,
Braided lines , Dot 4 brake Fluid or maybe the Silicon base fluid so
i don't have to worrie about moister build up in the lines , I bought
cross drilled rotors now i need pads to complete the up grade .

Dan

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun May 07, 2006 3:42 pm

I'd stay away from the silcone fluid for street use

Joe Clemente · Post by **Joe Clemente** » Tue May 09, 2006 8:09 pm

Dan,

Silicone based fluid is compressible. Ok if you don't mind a spongy pedal. But it defeats the purpose of those steel lines. I would suggest sacrificing the hygroscopic resistance of the silicone stuff for a good DOT 3 with high and stable wet and dry boiling points. You could go DOT 4 but their boiling points are not as stable so it requires changing more often.
The other thing I would do to minimize compliance is to make sure you have no flex in any of your mountings.

You got the crossed drilled rotors for weight savings did you? Won't help you stop better unfortunately. Major myth.

J.

TVST*R · Post by **TVST*R** » Wed May 10, 2006 12:58 am

Crossed drilled rotors don't help me stop better???What?
WoW...I was just
about to order some from IAP.
Who knew?
What's the best bet for street use then?

bandit · Post by **bandit** » Wed May 10, 2006 2:28 am

they don't help u stop better but help keep your rotors cool when you drive hard and on long down hill grades .

Dan

TVST*R · Post by **TVST*R** » Wed May 10, 2006 11:21 am

It seems a cooler rotor would stop better....Maybe a better
investment is steel lines.

T

pertyfly · Post by **pertyfly** » Wed May 10, 2006 11:57 am

Hmmm....I'm not the best to answer this with my limited race knowledge, however...

I've recently seen a study which said that not only do they not help you stop better, but they actually don't help it run cooler either. Apparently the reduced surface area caused by the holes allows it to dissipate the heat less. This means they heat up more. They are however, lighter of course which reduces unsprung weight.