First thing first, as I said in the video, NEVER use lacquer primer!
Nice color, I would keep it also. The large cracks I would grind with 36 grit on an air grinder and treat the area with Ospho. If the hood has checking I would take most of it off with a DA, 120 or 180. It is hard to tell in the pics but this is how i would go about this car.
One, take it apart.
Two, fix the rust spots and treat them.
Three, grind and fix the dents, then finish dents off in 120 or 180.
Then, DA the whole car with 180 if the paint is not check...cracks in the paint all over.
Then, a quick hand block with 180.
Then, prime with 4:1 primer 3 coats.
After the primer dries, I would now only hand sand with 180 and a guide coat.
After it is all sanded and straight, I would re-prime with 4:1 primer 2 to 3 coats and do a light sanding with a guide coat on 220 to 320, just to knock the top off.
Then, wet sand with 320 to 400, wet with a guide coat.
If when you are sanding you find small dents or waves in your body work use shark metal bite glazing putty. It is a 2 part smooth sanding filler. Never use one part putty. I would only use 4:1 primer or this primer, here is the link,
http://www.ipaint.us/gl2kurprseki.html.
But i really find 4:1 is the best all around primer. As far as paint goes, here is the link,
http://www.ipaint.us/ururen.html. This company will mix factory colors by request. This paint is the same as Imron. Their clear,
http://www.ipaint.us/diclkit1ga1q.html. buffs out awesome and is very user friendly.
Another great paint source is
http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_ure ... _kits.html. I used this paint for the first time years ago and I was worried because the price is so low. But it held up incredibly well for the price, however this company does not mix factory colors. I used Kirker as well but it does not hold up in the sun down here. I love the colors Kirker has but they are not very UV resistant.
I would shoot the color and spray the clear over the top wet on wet. This is how I do it. If you need help on how to DA I could do a video if you like.
blurple124 wrote:Awesome tips! Here are the big questions I have:
My car has the original paint (I'm pretty sure) and I want to keep the color, but there are a couple chips and cracks, it is thin (transparent to primer) in some spots and is overall quite faded. Is it necessary to bring this to bare metal in order to do a repaint, or is bringing the paint down to primer and then making it straight all that is necessary?
When you choose a base coat, do you prefer Urethanes, enamels, or lacquers? Assuming an experienced painter is spraying.
For primers, there are high build, epoxy based, etching, etc. available. What do you use and in what order? Based on your answer to my first question, what is your recommendation?
Looking for advice where I can find it, much appreciated!
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