1980 spider Restoration phase 2

[DRUMMOND]

Thanks Neksonj

Mark
It is a marker/indicator light (bmw)

[Gatorman]

Fantastic job Drummond! I can't imagine how many hours you have in this project. Love the new color!

[DRUMMOND]

Thanks Gatorman. I have enjoyed nearly every moment of it!

To all People who shape their own brake lines, My Heroes!! What an exercise in patience, 3D ability and frustration. All I can say is that I am glad I practiced on the old lines first!!







From a 2 way valve to a no way valve? This what it looked like Isn't it just supposed to be vapors in this line from the gas tank to the charcoal canister?



six inches on either side of the valve were totally blocked with the gunk

[Mick124]

Nice work Drummond. Love the color.

[DRUMMOND]

Thanks for the nice comments Mick124!

Rear Axle Brake Line rehab
Started with this



Finished with this

Chasing threads



Newly formed brake lines







Next, "installation"!!

[Kiwispider]

Hi Drummond, assuming you still have your drive shaft out? I'm swapping out my auto gearbox for a 5 speed so need to get my front drive shaft lengthened - any chance you could measure yours so I know how long to make it?

Also when you refurbed your sliding yoke did you pull it apart? Could it/should it be done? I have second hand one that came with the 5 speed box, don't know if it is different to the one on the automatic.

Thanks

[DRUMMOND]

Hi Trevor

Here are the driveshaft measurements




Driveshaft was totally disassembled re-greased Spiders, yoke & new center support. If unknown condition, check play/condition at yoke/spline side

[DRUMMOND]

One of the small tedious things to do when renovating is thread chasing takes hours but saves a lot of time/hassle when assembling


Fuel pump, Filter & Lines installed today








Also started to install rear axle & suspension

[aj81spider]

I continue to be amazed by your work. I love this thread and the fact that you are restoring and not replacing most things - and that they keep turning out fantastic.

I saw you respond on another thread to someone that something "was no big deal and just required a little care." I didn't reply, but wanted to warn him that's like Michelangelo telling someone that painting church ceilings was no big deal!

[azruss]

I see you are using a thread tap to chase the threads. I would recommend using a roll tap as the method you are using now is removing material and weakening the threads. A roll tap will reform the metal without removing any, making for a stronger thread.

[DRUMMOND]

Hi aj81 spider. Thank you for your kind comments!

Hi Azruss. No metal is being removed, Just paint and surface rust. I was of the opinion that a roll tap was for forming not thread chasing?

[klweimer]

I would agree with Drummond on this, but maybe I've never used roll taps? I try to use bottoming taps for thread chasing, as they have full threads almost all the way to the end, useful for blind holes.
Kirk

[azruss]

Yes, you can use a roll tap to chase threads. The effectiveness depends a lot of the condition of the threads. If the threads have been damaged by over use (bottom A-arm studs), stripped, or cross threaded, a roll tap is a great choice. If the threads are in great shape and just need crud removed, then a cutting tap is a better choice.
FYI: A cutting tap can produce a higher percent thread depending on the size of the drill used for the hole. For instance, a 3/8x16 thread, drilled accurately with a "P" drill will produce a 64% thread. Drilled with a 5/16" drill produces a 77% thread. Roll taps normally aim for a 70% thread and is considered a stronger thread as it cold rolls the metal making it more dense than cutting. At least, that's what the experts say.

[DRUMMOND]

Hi Azruss

Thank you! for your alternative information. Certainly something to investigate more.
Rolled taps or cut threads, Juries still out on what is stronger. Rolled taps is definitely more efficient manufacturing wise.

I had to replace the bottom A arm bolts on the cross member, as they were all cross threaded and collar worn. It seems a poor design, as the cross member does not appear to have any stabilizing tabs to stop any fore & aft movement. It appears to rely on the tightness of the bolts to prevent this. What do you think?

[DRUMMOND]

Finished installing rear suspension & brakes


















It all looks too good to get dirty
One thing to remember, you can't take enough photos when you are restoring you car, especially over a long period of time, you forget how it goes back together