Almost got the car ready to start

[wikkid]

I forgot to note:
I am really just trying to get the car to start - it is so close! I will continue to pull and check the FI components, as well as doubling back to see if there are any other basic issues to fix. But I'm hoping someone will have insight as to why it won't start at all, and can point me in some direction I may not otherwise think of.
Thanks to all so far.
-Chris

[majicwrench]

No need to look at cold start valve...as you are aware you HAVE to have fuel pump run as engine is cranking.
Good luck!

[wikkid]

Stuff I'm going to check:
1. pull off cold start injector to see if it squirts (yes, fuel gets up to it, but is it operational and not clogged);
2. Coolant Temp Sensor and Thermo Time Switch, to be sure they are working and sending the "go" signal to the Cold Start Injector;
3. Aux. Air Valve - pull it off, clean and temp test it.

[majicwrench]

None of those three items are going to matter if the fuel pump is not running while you are cranking engine! Need to verify yes or no on fuel pump operation.

[seabeelt]

Do you have the FI troubleshooting manual? If not let me know
email at mndwilliamson@earthlink.net

[wikkid]

majic, yes, the pump runs, now that I fiddled with the AFM sweep pick-up. 35 psi fuel pressure at the cold start injector hose with the AFM flap held open and ignition key on "run." So yes, perfect operation of fuel delivery up to the injector manifold.

seabeelt, I have a couple of helpful guides, but if you have another, let me know. I have been using 4 sources: the basic Spider shop manual for assembly/disassembly; Brad Artigue's engine tuning guide; and these two:
http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm
and
http://bama.ua.edu/~darren/boschindex.html

[rlux4]

Does the fuel pump run when you're cranking though? If not try this:
Drop the plate holding your relays. It's under the dash below the glove box. Put a test light on the green wire with a black stripe coming out of the dual relay. Crank the car; you should have steady 12V on this wire (it's power to the fuel pump). If you don't have steady power then yes, the bouncing of the contact arm is interupting the signal. You'd have to adjust it so that the bouncing doesn't break the contact. If you haven't already, I'd suggest putting the spring tension of the flap back to it's original position.
And here's a good diagnostic; http://www.angelfire.com/wa2/fits/index.html#ljetguide
Another: http://www.wcmotors.com/personal/Fiat%2 ... agnostics/
Ron

[wikkid]

Thanks, Ron, for the links and advice. I will try the relay output. I may have to move the monster power amp that the PO installed up in there (it was hidden by the A/C box, so it was a surprise when I pulled the A/C down to get up in there).

Just curious, wouldn't a looser spring tension help the AFM air flap open easier, and therefore (theoretically) help it stay open for starting better?

I know some have loosened it by a few notches to get a higher air flow reading, to trick the ECU into sending more fuel, for performance issues. I thought it might help the sweeper and the silver arm get up off the start position a little easier, but I'll put it back and try at the stock position.

[rlux4]

My thought is that with a lower spring tension the bouncing action would be worse. BTW, while the car is cranking it is normal for the arm to bounce, it's reacting to the surges of air intake with the stroke of the cylinders. Once it fires up the intake is so constant the bouncing stops. The bouncing that it does should not cause the contact points to open though. In other words, as the bounce goes back towards the resting position (contacts open) the next intake stroke should move the flap open before the contact is broken.
Ron

[wikkid]

I'll check that. Thanks.