Brake job diary.

[velozi]

So I wanted to upgrade all components to my brake system. Here are details, problems and susprises for each part:

-Front calipers from Advance Auto online for $31 each. Rebuilt Fiat brand that came in good condition but one had a nasty groove on the banjo bolt area that made fluid leak with no pressure. It was grinded down and was able to create a seal. Good rebuild but make sure you check them carefully before starting.

-Rear calipers from RockAuto.com at $47 each. Rebuilt Fiat brand. One had a fix brake line holder but was able to use it without any change. Inspect them carefully.

-Compensator and bushings from Vicks Fiat. The compensator was an easy switch but the bushings were not even close to original fit. Looked like they came for a washing mashing at Home Depot. No way to make them fit so a pointless purchase. Surprise that they were sold by Vicks. Their products are usually right on. Found some used ones in good condition and used those.

-Front brake flex hoses from OReillys at $18 each. Thought I ordered them from IAP when the job started but had to buy them locally at the last minute. Rear flex hoses from IAP with no problem.

-Master cylinder from RockAuto.com for $22. Perfect but a booster bolt snapped during removal of the old one.

-Reservoir to master brake hose from Imported Auto Services in Forest Park, GA at $7 per foot. Not easy to find this hose but this old VW bug shop had a roll.

[lasersailor]

Thanks for the post -- please explain more about your experience replacing the brake compensator. Mine* is leaking from someplace, although I've not been able to look closely enough to figure out exactly where. I've received a replacement unit from IAP but haven't yet installed it as the grommets/bushings are still backordered. I have ye olde Fiat repair manual with specs/drawings on how to remove/replace/recalibrate, and I'm only moderately intimidated about trying to do it myself. Some newbie questions:

1. Is replacing the compensator something that can be done with the Spider up on jackstands in my garage, or does it really require a lift (i.e. take it to a shop and pay $$$ to have them figure it out)?

2. What exactly are the grommets/bushings used for when replacing the compensator? How likely is it that I can source them locally (SoCal)?

3. How likely is it that the bolts holding the compensator in place are frozen and difficult to remove/replace?

4. Are there any special tools required for this job?

5. Anything else that likely to surprise me?

Thanks for your insights -- figured I better get all the input I can before I start a project I can't finish.

Regards,

Jim

*Stock 1980 Spider 2000 with skinny tires, heavy bumpers, long springs and brake dive, so I'm not keen on bypassing/eliminating the compensator...

[velozi]

1. Is replacing the compensator something that can be done with the Spider up on jackstands in my garage, or does it really require a lift (i.e. take it to a shop and pay $$$ to have them figure it out)?
Only jackstands. Some people bypass the compensator all together. If you stil have one, you need to support the rear wheels at normal height in order to bleed the rear brakes.

2. What exactly are the grommets/bushings used for when replacing the compensator? How likely is it that I can source them locally (SoCal)?
There is a bar that the compensator uses to adjust brake power to rear wheels. This bar uses small rubber bushings. IAP had some but they ran out. Vicks uses ones that look like Home Depot and are impossible to fit. If you have one in had, you may be able to fine a similar one.

3. How likely is it that the bolts holding the compensator in place are frozen and difficult to remove/replace?
Just put some lubricant the day before and leave overnight. One of my master cylinder studs snapped and had to be rigged with some imagination.

4. Are there any special tools required for this job?
Nope. Just patience.

5. Anything else that likely to surprise me?
Bleeding the rear brakes need to be at normal height.

[jimjoe80]

My right rear brake is sticking. Would bleeding it help?

[velozi]

One of mine was sticking and bleeding didn't help. Had to replace/rebuild the caliper.

That's what started my entire brake system replacement. Glad I did it. Now I brake with not problems or scary thoughts.

[kmead]

My right rear brake is sticking. Would bleeding it help?

You might get away with taking the caliper off of the mount, carefully cleaning the mount, the wedges and caliper sliding surfaces with steel wool/sandpaper to get rid of oxidation. Reassemble lightly greasing the contact faces of each part so they move easily against each other instead of dragging.

Check your ebrake cable as an old one can freeze/hang up causing the parking brake to drag.

If the hoses are old, some folks suggest it may be collapsed line holding pressure (which makes no sense but replacement seems to cure it for some).

If the piston is sticking, it needs to be rebuilt or replaced. The rears are a bit of a pain to rebuild but it is doable. A new rear caliper is @150 bucks.

The hoses should likely be replaced in any case.

[81SPIDERMATT]

trying to rebuild the rear caliper and the flex hose to caliper fitting is really stuck...is it regular thread .....trying to remove at the top of the hose makes everything spin all the way to the hard brake line coming in....???????....took the bleeder screw out to access better and remove pressure...it is really stuck

[81SPIDERMATT]

got it.... just was not curling my lip right... googled some italian curse words... used a few

[puddin]

i tossed that compensator==summit racing sells a adj brake proportioning valve $50 --