What tool can get this screw out?

[Tango]

I am trying to get my old rotor off the distributor. On the left, no problem. On the right, i dont have a wrench or socket that can get a grip on that. Any suggestions? I got it to turn one or two turns, and it stopped.

[Tango]

I think I found the problem. Looking from behind with a mirror, it looks like this screw was trimmed to length with a sidecutter, or else the end wiped against something. I'm afraid the tip of it underneath is mushroomed a bit or has a burr. I dont think I can fix that without taking the distributor out. Has someone got a procedure for that they can send me or post? My two manuals are useless on that front. Here is what it looks like (to orient you, thats the image in the mirror).

[Kevin1]

Two Dremel solutions.
1. cut a slot for a screwdriver in the head with a Dremel tool.
2. cut the head off the screw, remove the rotor, then back the shank of the screw out from underneath.

[kmead]

Buy a two new rotors.

Break the existing rotor, access head of screw and remove it. Chase threads in distributor mount.

Find new screw to replace incorrect one and install new rotor. Put the other rotor in a storage container in the trunk as a spare along with a new cap.

[manoa matt]

Bolt/screw...whatever.

I would grind or file off the mushroomed over part first. That way you should be able to easily remove the bolt and not damage the threads. I had to chase the threads for one of those holes once. That thread pitch is not a common size.

[kmead]

Good point. You will likely want to remove the distributor, run the screw further in, dress it with a file or possibly a dremel and then remove it. That rotor looks ready to be replaced.

One just has to love previous owners and mechanics for maintaining these cars just enough to ensure they lasted long enough for us to buy them and fix them, properly.

[Tango]

I can try it with a dremel and the distributor in place, with the mirror. But again, if someone can advise me on the steps to get the distributor out and back in... this is an 81 by the way.

My Haynes manual only goes up to 78 and the Fiat shop manual just says "remove the distributor" and "reverse steps to replace" type of instructions.

The original task was to replace the rotor, but what makes you say it looks like it is ready to be replaced? To me it looked OK, I was just replacing it as part of a general precautionary changeout of cap, rotor, plugs and wires.

[ventura ace]

1) mark the position of the distributor so that you can put it back in the same position after removal. Mark it at the base, in relation to the cam tower, and mark the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor housing.
2) loosen and remvoe the large nut and clamp holding the distributor at the base
3) pull the distributor out, straight up. You'll notice that the rotor turns as you lift. Note the approximate amount of twist, since it will do the opposite when you install.
4) reverse the steps above. If rotor is not pointing to your mark when you have the base of the distributor at its mark, lift the distributor just high enough to rotate the rotor a notch or two in either direction to correct as necessary. Align marks and tighten the large nut and clamp. Done.

Alvon

[manoa matt]

Why on Earth I was thinking of someone elses' Fiat problem last night as I was goint to bed is beyond me, but anyway it occured to me:

If you file or grind that screw while the magnetic pickup is installed, all the metal shards/bits will get stuck to the pickup and could hinder performance.

Take the distributor out and remove the magnetic pickup. Turn it upside down so as you file/grind the bits do not fall down and make their way to the bearings.

[Tango]

That is a very good point. I will be removing the mag pickup, though, and replacing it. That was the swamp I was trying to drain when I ran into all these alligators.

But from what Ventura Ace says, it doesnt sound too hard to just lift it out and put the distirbutor back in. The time needed to do that will probably be less than what is needed to fidget around with the mirrors and dremels. I will have to borrow a timing light after wards to set the timing, I guess. I need to learn how to do that anyway.

And I dont need to get the timing marks / crankshaft pulley set up to 10 deg BTDC or any such precaution in case, before pulling the distributor? Can't think why I would...

Tim

[spiderrey]

You could just put a magnet right next to it as you cut into it. it will suck up the shavings like a vacume. I do this at work if Im drilling overhead. I just watch the pile of shavings grow, and dont see anything fall.

[kmead]

... but what makes you say it looks like it is ready to be replaced? To me it looked OK, I was just replacing it as part of a general precautionary changeout of cap, rotor, plugs and wires.

I say this because the edge of the metal the spark jumps from to the metal contacts in the cap is no longer the same concentric arc as the plastic edge of the rotor and looks as if it has been filed in the past.

It has also clearly been in place for quite some time and although its unlikely to degrade in place this one looks a trifle abused (especially now... )

A new rotor (and cap) is cheap insurance for ensuring your ignition is working properly.

[Tango]

It's out! A friend got a machinist at work to perform a little government job and turned an 8mm socket down to an ultra thin wall version. It gave up the ghost part way, but without forcing I was able to coax it out the rest of the way with a screwdriver blade one flat at a time. The other screw fits the thread, and all seems fine. Whew.

It was what it seemed: someone hacksawed through the screw and grossly filed the end into a burred point and voila.

Thanks for all the friendly and creative advice, and I will still have to take the distributor out at some point to replace the vac advance. If I have to. I guess.

Tango