Coolant Questions

Boydness · Post by **Boydness** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 6:38 pm

Well, if it is not one thing, it's another...

The coolant hose from the engine block to the side of the carb ruptured at the block. So, I started pumping coolant out onto the road. I caught it pretty quick, I would say it only leaked out for about 3 minutes or so...

Questions:
What is the proper dilution for the coolant? 50/50 or am I fine running 70/30?

Does anyone have the procedure for clearing the air bubbles out? I thought that I had saved a copy, but I can not find it now.

Boydness

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:33 pm

I've found the easiest way to bleed air from the cooling system is to disconnect that hose from the choke and finish filling the system thru that hose.

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:34 pm

Steve,

Betcha anything that hose was never replaced from original equipment. I have a '78 and an '80. Both had what looked like OEM choke hoses on them when i bothered to consider them this year. don't just change one, change them both.

i believe that even in the great state of florida that 50/50 is recommended, no? it is not just anti-freeze remember. it is also anti-boil.

And, for the benefit of others, you now have in your possession, a copy of Chris Obert's written procedure; which i recommend.

Boydness · Post by **Boydness** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:48 pm

So Cal Mark wrote:I've found the easiest way to bleed air from the cooling system is to disconnect that hose from the choke and finish filling the system thru that hose.

Well, I guess that I will already have the hose off, so it will make it easy to go ahead and use that method also.

mbouse wrote:Betcha anything that hose was never replaced from original equipment. I have a '78 and an '80. Both had what looked like OEM choke hoses on them when i bothered to consider them this year. don't just change one, change them both.

Not sure if there are the original hoses, but the connection at the end block still has the original style hose clamp.

mbouse wrote:i believe that even in the great state of florida that 50/50 is recommended, no? it is not just anti-freeze remember. it is also anti-boil.

The antifreeze/coolant that I use states that 70/30 is the "Boil-over Proection" ratio. I has always top-up'd the coolant with a 70/30 mix, but I was not sure if that was the proper ratio or not. In the past, I have very rarely had the temp over 190, unless there was an electrical issue and the fan was not kicking on. But, figured it was best to ask.

mbouse wrote:And, for the benefit of others, you now have in your possession, a copy of Chris Obert's written procedure; which i recommend.

Chris Obert's written procedure, was exactly the procedure the I was referring to in the first post. Thanks again Mike.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 12:29 am

is the mix 70water/30coolant, or vice versa?

Boydness · Post by **Boydness** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:44 am

So Cal Mark wrote:is the mix 70water/30coolant, or vice versa?

70% Coolant
30% Water

Boydness · Post by **Boydness** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 12:39 pm

Alright, the hose has been successfully replaced, and it turns out that I lost about 3 liters from that rupture during those few mintues.
The original old-style hose clamp was a nightmare. I am guessing that is why it was not removed/replaced. The other hose is still there, it has the same style hose clamp, so I assume that they are the same age. I will replace it when I change out the carb in the coming weeks.

The running temp is lower now than before.
I use to run at a solid 190 (needle straight up).
Now, the needle barely crosses the "1" in "190", so I guess that is about 180 degrees?
Today might be a cool day, I think that I should be running "normal"(higher), unless I finally managed to get all the bubbles out this time?
Is that were I should be? The fan seems to want to keep it at that temp.

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 12:52 pm

That's where mine runs. If the fan is coming on, you have successfully removed the air pockets!

Mike Bashen · Post by **Mike Bashen** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 3:08 pm

I herd that the air pockets on X1/9s is even harder to get out
cause the Radiator is in the front and the engine is in the back
how do you solve that ?

Mike

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:44 pm

there is a bleed screw in the top of the radiator on an X. Besides, the coolant tank is the highest spot in an X, so that's where the air wants to go

tanis · Post by **tanis** » Tue Dec 19, 2006 1:05 pm

Hey Mark - whats the easiest bleed procedure for cars with manual Chokes?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Dec 19, 2006 3:35 pm

ha ha, I knew someone would bring that up eventually! The easiest way, and fairly permanent is to add a flush tee to the heater hose just above the cam cover. Prestone makes the tee in a kit for about $5. Without that, it gets tricky. If you have a manual choke, do you also have the t-stat in the head? or the external stat?
On a car with the external stat I fill the system as I install the hoses, so that when I get to the upper hose I'm finished filling. Then you can keep squeasing the lower hose just below the stat to help force any air out. Once you don't see any bubbles at the fill neck you can start the car. Keep the heater on to help bleed any air from the heater core. Monitor the temp closely. If the fan doesn't come on at the right temp, shut it off and feel the lower hose. If it's not hot, go back to working air out from the lower hose.
All in all, adding the flush tee is the easiest route

Coolant Questions

Coolant Questions

Running Temp