Tool for loosening the Front Crank Pulley

[124cso]

Following up on my previous quest, We ended up making a tool to lock the front pulley via the 3 small webs in the casting. I'll link some pics for anyone who wants to see or copy it as it puts all the loading at the front. No need to jam tools into the starter teeth, or worse as one reply suggested!.
To make it, we used the bottom end of a Ford Model T Torque tube, turned down to 78mm dia to seat into the pulley, then notched for the casting webs and bored out to slip the 1&1/2" socket thru. Weld on a flat bar for a handle and a locating stub opposite, then drill these for 1/4" mushroom /gutter bolts with plain square nuts. The nuts grip the inside of the Vee of the outer pulley and hold it in place. Next we used a length of light box over the flat bar as a handle (slide up/down to get leverage) and a length of pipe to extend the socket handle similarly.
From the effort (compared to re-torquing) and the length of the handle extensions, we guess that it took over 300 ft/pounds to crack the front nut loose.
Now if anyone is going to make one of these, and you find an old model T driveshaft tube that has the front ball ( gearbox end) fitting that is bolted to the front of the tube, DON'T CUT IT UP! Send me an email and I'll send you the money to freight it to me and I'll send you the tool for free!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67434740@N00/287310319/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/67434740@N ... otostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67434740@N ... otostream/

This made it almost a one person job to undo and retorque the nut, with only really assistance needed was to help actually fit the tool into place.

[So Cal Mark]

those front pulleys are cast, and you may find it will break pretty easily. I find it much easier just to use an impact wrench

[mdrburchette]

Very innovative and I'm glad it worked for you. I have to tell you, though, be careful. Mark is right about the pully being easy to break. I took a nice chunk out of mine when trying to remove it.

[manoa matt]

I can't tell how many posts I've seen about the front crank pully. Everybody seems to have trouble getting the pully off. The only reason you would need to take the pully off is to replace the front main oil seal, or if you need to take the entire crank shaft out. In either case both of these opperations are best accomplished with the block out of the car. If all you are doing is replacing the timing belt then YOU DONT NEED TO TAKE THE PULLY OFF Check out my response in Engine/Tunning under "Replacing the cam belt, how to get the front pully off. Manoa Matt
I'm currently cleaning all the sluge and replacing all oil seals and gaskets on my engine. In about a week I'll be ready to put everything back together and I'll take pictures of how I've got the belt on and off without taking the pully off.

Your going to waste your time and materials to make a specialized tool that you'll only use once in ten years, and possibly damage a part that is hard to come by.

Not to be derogatory/condesending if your mechanically inclined enough to make a specialized tool then you should be able to figure out how to get the belt off without taking the pully off. I really just want to save fiat owners a big headache, and busted nuckles.

pictures comming soon

Matt

[So Cal Mark]

on the later Spiders there is a casting on the front seal retainer that prevents belt removal unless the pulley is removed. Trying to force it thru that opening could cause damage to the belt that would shorten its' life.
And, if you don't replace the front seals when you do a belt replacement, you're only doing half the job

[124cso]

As well as Mark's comment about a casting, the tin sheild that wraps around the bottom pulley is fixed with a stud located BEHIND the front pulley. There is no other way. You cannot get to the belt or work the tensioner correctly without taking it off.
I suspect there is less risk of damaging the pulley webs than there is of wrecking ring-gear teeth by jamming that up ?

The earlier cars (1608cc ) are much easier to get at the belt and it is interesting that a 125 book says torque to 88 foot pounds and a 124 coupe it is 110 foot pounds. If not running A/C or an airpump (anti-smog), I cannot see the need for 181 foot pounds as specified ? Just make sure the thread is lubricated so it pulls up true.

Makes you wonder if they were trying to keep that job as a "dealer workshop only" item ???

[manoa matt]

If a picture is worth a thousand words, here is a 6000 word essay on how to replace a timing belt the easy way.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38097470@N00/?saved=1

copy and paste this link.

manoa matt

[manoa matt]

One more thing, view them in this order:

1397
1389
1390
1391
1394
1395

sorry about that