No Fire 1800

[psg]

I have been receiving help from you fine fellows but have run into a dead end. The engine has gone through a rebuild so basically everything has come out and is now back in.

I have verified #1 TDC and the timing Cam Marks (as well I have verified the cam wheels have not been swapped) and the static timing mark to the engine cover. I have spark at the plugs and have the distributor oriented to the number four plug when at #1 TDC... I have used starter fluid, poured fuel into the carb and as well as have fuel in the float bowel (all air passages seem clear). I am not even getting a whimper as the engine cranks.... It is obvious I have over looked something, recommendations? Oh yes and the aux shaft is at about 1 o'clock which I know has nothing to do with the firing but I am not wanting to tempt the gremlins and give them an excuse. psg

[So Cal Mark]

you need fuel and spark at the right time, and compression. Since you're sure you have spark at the right time, and have tried starting fluid, are you sure you have compression? Could the plugs have gotten wet from attempting to start it? If so, you'll need to remove them and dry them

[psg]

I have come upon the next problem of no fire.... little compression. I had the head reworked because of previous owner problems and replaced a few valves and redid a few ports to clean up things. I presumed they adjusted the valves but now I don't believe so. Compression in cylinder 1 is just about 40 pounds and cylinder 2 is about 35 pounds. The pressure holds.

What is the expected compression, plus and minus? Previously I replaced the pistons and rings after the cylinders were honed and feel confident that end is okay. The engine is now in the car. I am in over my head. It appears from other posts that adjustments can be done by a first timer.

Is the IAP valve adjustment guide a good guide and adequate to solve likely problems I will encounter? I noticed in the Haynes manual they use a bent screwdriver instead of the valve tool. Any experience with this?

So anyone want to give a little theory on how adjusting the valves will increase compression? What happens when shims are increased and decreased. thanks. psg

[skumandeth]

I have come upon the next problem of no fire.... little compression. I had the head reworked because of previous owner problems and replaced a few valves and redid a few ports to clean up things. I presumed they adjusted the valves but now I don't believe so. Compression in cylinder 1 is just about 40 pounds and cylinder 2 is about 35 pounds. The pressure holds.

What is the expected compression, plus and minus? Previously I replaced the pistons and rings after the cylinders were honed and feel confident that end is okay. The engine is now in the car. I am in over my head. It appears from other posts that adjustments can be done by a first timer.

Is the IAP valve adjustment guide a good guide and adequate to solve likely problems I will encounter? I noticed in the Haynes manual they use a bent screwdriver instead of the valve tool. Any experience with this?

So anyone want to give a little theory on how adjusting the valves will increase compression? What happens when shims are increased and decreased. thanks. psg

Technically valve adjustment will not raise compression unless a lobe is holding a valve open. The valve adjustment is to make sure there is room for the valve stem to expand as it heats up without touching the cam when it is closed. Too much gap and the valve will not open fully or stay open the right amount of time, also causing the lovely "lifter tick" too little, as the valve heats up it won't close properly causing compression leaks. You should have at least 70lbs of compression cranking the engine with the starter to ignite fuel. You can do adjustments yourself but, will need a micrometer to measure the thickness of the original shims. I need to do the same thing with mine and I think I'm going to buy the IAP tool if for no reason then to be able to keep the tappet held down while removing the shims. Hope this helps.

[psg]

Thanks it does help. psg

[psg]

woowho The no fire 1800 car started today. I found I had little compression as the fellows who worked on the head did not adjust the valves. So 8 new shims later the compression is within specs, a little starter fluid and it fired with oil pressure to boot!

The problem now is that it is throwing oil and I think it is coming from the front of both camshafts. I am guessing that the fellows who worked on the head did not replace the seals after working on it. Looking at a spare head I have it appears the seals can come out after removing the the camshaft pulleys. Any warnings or things I should consider when removing or replacing the seals? Paul.

[So Cal Mark]

lube the lip of the seal first and make sure you use a driver to install them evenly. Loosen the cam pulley with the belt tensioned, then remove the belt

[psg]

Just curious as to why loosen the cam wheels with the belt tensioned? I will have to loosen the tension to remount the wheels or is this some new trick to be learned? psg

[So Cal Mark]

it helps prevent the cams from turning when breaking the bolts loose