Sigh.......

[skumandeth]

What a cruddy day. My Fiaj has had a slight head gasket leak and was waiting for the funds to pull it down and fix it, no overheating, just the occasional airlock and missing on one cylinder at start up after an overnight cold soak(which always cleared up in a minute or so) This evening on my way home which is a 30mile commute one way, at first I thought it was spark knocking slightly and then all the sudden it started to fire through carb (ok seen this before, first thought is valve left the seen) figured I could limp the little devil home on 3 cylinders made it within 5 miles of home, and all hell let loose. Steam, overheated, luckily oil pressure didn't drop out of site, but anyways car now sitting by highway waiting for me to get a trailer and bring the darn thing home. I'm hoping the "spark knock" I heard was the gasket blowing between two cylinders which I've seen that cause the popping through carb and the gasket got weak enough to completely blow. I'm really hoping I didn't just create an exotic anchor for my boat. Sigh, just wanted to vent, anyways I may be looking for some 1800 parts soon.

[So Cal Mark]

wow, sorry to hear that story. Once you get it home, drain the cooling system and get the spark plugs out. Then crank the motor over to blow the water out of the cylinders. It doesn't take long for them to rust and make the situation worse. Add some atf to the cylinders after you blow the water out.

[sonosml]

Marks suggestions are right on. Hope you had good luck getting it home.

IA-Mike

[sptcoupe]

I had a head gasket go between the #3 & 4 cylinders at highway speed. When I got the head off to replace it, I saw that the gases had actually scored the head, leaving a "furrow", or channel, in the head between the two cylinders. You could feel it when you ran your finger across it!

I had already taken some off the head and block when I put the engine together, and could not shave the head down anymore without the CR/clearances going out of sight (I was already running 11:1 in that days when "regular" gas was 96 octane). The gasket had been in place for several years, no leaks whatsoever, and there was no warning whatsoever. Just some ugly noise and the motor stopped. Almost like the belt had broken.

Be sure to check your head and block closely before you put it back together. Anyone else ever had that happen?

[So Cal Mark]

I've seen blocks with a channel inbetween the cylinders. They had been driven for a long period with a leaking head gasket. Usually if the gasket just blows out it's a result of detonation more than overheating

[skumandeth]

I was told when I bought this car that the motor had been gone through by a p.o. well... that guy did not have the brains god gave little green apples. To me it looks as though he thought the more scratches you put in the head and the intake manifold the better the respective gaskets would seal So needless to say the head gasket never had a chance from the get go. Hopefully, the machine shop can get enough out of the head to get all the scratches out. I am worried about the fact that the intake valve seats are damn close to the bottom edge of the head. It looks to me just to get them surfaced I'm going to have to pull valves. Anyone had problems of running into the seat when surfacing these heads? The more info I can give my machine shop the better since there isn't a big call for Fiat work in this area. Besides that the motor looks to be salvageable. Which is a damn good thing considering the Bronco is a might expensive at the pump. Also, does anyone know if Fel-pro or some other company makes the "head saver" brass shims for these motors. I'm guessing probably not but, am trying to save myself a head if these scratches are too damn deep.

[Jim DeShon]

I noticed on my 1800 motor that the valve seats ARE right at the head surface. I know the history on this motor. It has never been re-surfaced. I would assume by that, they are all that close to the surface. ...J.D.

[So Cal Mark]

the valves have to be removed for resurfacing. There is a minimum depth of the combustion chamber to determine if the head can be resurfaced again. How do the water jackets look? Any erosion around the edges?
You can always pick up a used head without spending much money.
I'm not aware of anyone that stocks the head saver shim, but most companies that make them only need a head gasket to produce one for you. It would be cheaper to buy a used head though. A bare head shouldn't set you back more than $50 at the top end.
Guy Croft sells the thicker turbo version head gasket, but they are a little pricey also

[skumandeth]

Well, luckily the head cleared up with only .003 surfacing, so now just waiting on gaskets and hopefully be reassembling it this weekend. Surprisingly the jackets and the rest of the head are in relatively good shape. I did some more research on the head thickness thing and yep your right no thickness spec anywhere. I was surprised to see they were able to surface it without touching those seats they are so darn close.

[skumandeth]

Final update... It Runs runs like a champ. Although, I did go through the usual timing belt not fitting thing so, checked the #'s and yep it's a 2000, with 1800 head (not sure on the head) Casting # 132AB but, little guy is happy to be on the road.

[So Cal Mark]

there is a spec for head thickness, but it's only available by using the factory tool

[ga.spyder]

Congrats on gettin her going.I wouldnt mind using the 62 Fairlane as a daily driver though!
Craig