oil filter question

[spiderrey]

oil filter question. the threads are 3/4 16, what is the outside diameter of the o ring?

[ventura ace]

I measured a couple at 2.84 - 2.87 inches. You making your own these days?

A

[manoa matt]

Sounds like he's looking for a sandwitch plate. I got a non thermostatic one if interested.

[spiderrey]

thanx 4 the info. no, im not making my own. whats a non thermostatic one anyways.

[manoa matt]

Two types of oil filter sandwitch plates: Ones with a temperature controll that opens at the specified temp to start the flow of oil to the oil cooler, and ones without the temperature controll valve. Jegs has a thermostatic sandwitch plate that will fit our cars for about $25, but I think it will open too early and overcool the oil leading to thicker oil which would lead to power loss. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEGS-517 ... enameZWD1V

The one I have does not have the valve in the plate, therefore it requires an external thermo valve to be plumed in the lines. IAP sells an in line thermo valve, but I don't know the opening temp.

I've thought about using that Jegs sandwitch plate with this cooler mounted to the cross piece in front of the rad. The cooler would fit perfectly on that rail and with the mounting/standoff brackets it should get proper air flow and not block any air that would go thru the rad, but I don't think the cooler would sufficiently cool the oil, given its small size.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Derale-1 ... .m20.l1116

[spiderrey]

thats not what i was working on, but i do have a piece that goes between the mounting plate and the oil filter. i think it came from a lancia. it basically works like the ol oil cooler on my ol 83 gti. it cools the oil with water from the radiator.
what i was doing was actually trying to locate a washable oil filter thats would filter the oil better then the throw away units. i just bought one of those suck um up things the pulls the oil out through the dip stick hole, i did 3 oil changes this weekend. i was very happy with it other then the fact that it wont work on my 03 silverado. it does leave a little oil in the pan though, i pulled the pan plug on the spider and drained the residual oil into a can. ive yet to measure it though. im also mounting a different fan onto the radiator that saves alot of weight and works more efficiently then the old unit. im going to figure the weight difference tommrow. it fits right into the old fan bracket, once mounted ill be able to trim the bracket down some, even more weight gone. i must be bored....

[bajacalal]

Hi, I worked selling auto parts for many years. Maybe I can shed some light on this, having looked into this before.

The NAPA (1189) filter listed for the FIAT appears correct. It is also listed for some Ford tractor applications with gasoline engines?!?

The threads and base o-ring on this are the same as a NAPA 1515 (Wix 51515) specified for older Ford applications or NAPA/Wix 1085/51085 - roughly 1990s model Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep gasoline truck/SUV engines... The metal filter housing, filter fluid capacity and internal filter part (I think) are different among these numbers. The stamped metal base part that screws to your engine appeared to be made on the exact same tooling - at least with our products.

If you want a sandwich adapter or similar product that attaches in place of your conventional oil filter I would suggest looking for products that fit these Chrysler & Ford engines. Much easier than looking for FIAT parts.

[spiderrey]

this is what i was trying to locate. its extreme.

[So Cal Mark]

does that say AMSOIL on it? I'd expect it to have a replaceable cartridge in it

[spiderrey]

a washable stainless cartridge.

[spiderrey]

i measured the oil left in ther pan when the oil is drained thru the dipstick tube. 9 oz. opinions please, i have my own, but am curious about yours. how much oil is left in the cam towers when you do an oil change, what do you think?

[ventura ace]

. . . how much oil is left in the cam towers when you do an oil change, what do you think?

That's an interesting point. I have taken valves covers off and found hardly any oil, and other times I've found oil almost completely covering all the shims. Someone suggested to me that if you kill the engine when it is hot, that the oil can drain down the clearance around the shim buckets, because the thermal expansion of the aluminum housing is greater than the steel buckets, giving more clearance at hot temperatures. But if you shut the engine off when it is relatively cooler, then more oil will stay in the top of the cam towers.

Regardless of the cam tower oil, I'd suggest you are better off draining the oil from the drain plug. If you leave 9 oz on the bottom of the pan, that 9 oz is the heaviest, sludgiest part of the oil, the main part that you want to drain out of there. Have you ever noticed the heavy stuff on the bottom of the catch pan that you drain the oil into? That's what ends up on bottom of the oil pan. Maybe that's why they generally recommend that you run the car a little before you change the oil, to try to get that sludgey stuff moving around so it will drain out easier.

A

[baltobernie]

Good one, Alvon.

Another reason to avoid the "quick change" joints for your daily driver, too. They screw in the plug when the flow is down to a trickle; there's several ounces of crud still in there. Particularly with the tiny oil filters used in modern cars, you're best off doing it yourself.