Brake Lines

[katsi]

OK guys, I have a question about the brakes. The spider I purchased was purchased back in 95 by the guy I bought it from. He bought it with the intention of restoring her. Anyway, he did get the motor rebuilt but that's about it. So, I have an 79 spider that runs awesome and drives well enough (ignoring suspension) but does not stop (One e brake works). SO, I decided to put in new callipers and a new master cilinder to see if that would revive the brakes. Anyway, have you ever herd that song that goes like "the knee bone is connected to the Thigh bone, ect ect"? Well replace "knee" with calliper and "connected to" with "rusted together" and finish the song using all the parts of the brake system and that will give you a good idea of what I'm dealing with. So, now I purchased everything for the brakes except the compensator and this is where my question lies. I know there is a bypass kit that bypasses the compensator but, I was wondering if I couldn't just run the new rear, metal brake line to that " T " that goes to each rear calliper that sits right on top of the drivers side of the rear axle. Know what I mean? Just run the brake line directly to that T and then the new lines to the brakes. Has anyone ever tried this or does the distance have something to do with the brake fluid pressure?
Hope to hear from someone who knows brakes better that I.

Thanks
Katsi

[So Cal Mark]

you can run the center hose right to the tee

[azygoustoyou]

What does the compensator do? And, whats the difference if you bypass it?

[RDSPYDR]

My understanding is this, that under heavy braking conditions the rears can lock up. The compensator (sp?) is Fiats version of anti-lock rear brakes.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Still learning about Fiats.

[katsi]

In reading about the compensator, it allows more pressure to go to the rear brakes under heavier loads. It kinda works off the suspension and adjusts itself via the ride hieght. IE, if you have a bunch of crap in the trunk, the car will ride lower and therefor need more stopping power. Anyway, I read the chapter on it and that's what I got from it.
Katsi

[RDSPYDR]

I am actually going to bypass mine next winter as it is stuck in the open position.

Already planning on next winters projects already. Didn't finish one that will carry over to next winter.

[azygoustoyou]

Is this what the compensator looks like? Can we buy these new?

[So Cal Mark]

yes

[azygoustoyou]

Mark, is that yes to both questions?

[So Cal Mark]

I hadn't seen the second part, but they are available new

[katsi]

Here is one more question about the brakes. I have replaced everything in the rear and was woking on the front brakes. I noticed that in installing the new callipers, it seemed to fit better if I put that metal spring in front of the brake calliper lip and wedged the wedges behind the calliper lip. Is this the correct way? If so, I'm going to have to re-do the rear callipers to sandwitch them between these two items.

[So Cal Mark]

it only works one way, pics?

[katsi]

I just can not understand how to upload pictures. Sorry. Anyway, on the calliper mount you have these two rectangle type of springs. The ends fit into little holes inside the calliper mount. On the calliper itself, it has these ridges on top and bottom. Does that ridge get sandwitched between the rectangle spring and the retaining wedge ( spring - calliper - retaining wedge) or does it go inside the spring and then the wedge between (calliper - spring - retaining wedge). Seems to fit fine either way.

[So Cal Mark]

think about the purpose of the spring; if you put it on top of the caliper and drive the wedge in the caliper won't be able to slide. The caliper sits on top of the spring