How to pass SMOG

[OaklandSpider]

Hello one and all...
I'm new to this site and FIAT in general. I will have NUMEROUS questions to follow this post...but the main one is:
HOW CAN I PASS THE SMOG TEST?
I live in California and need to have my 1977 124 Spider pass SMOG before I can register and drive it legally. What can I do to get her ready for the big test? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Pics, photos, more questions to come...
Thanks in advance,
Peter

[htchevyii]

Hi Peter,
Smog testing old cars can be frustrating, I just got my Dad's 77 Mgb smogged today after 6 months and three tries. On the other hand my '82 breezed thru. Make sure all your smog equipment is there and operating correctly, your engine is propery tuned, (timing and idle speed set to spec) and ign system is in good condition. Change your oil right before. We are lucky, FIAT's are exempt from the new evap system test that started at the first of last year, because the tester won't fit, (my smog tech had to spend 45 minutes on the phone with the B.A.R. to find this out). Try to find a smog tech that works on older cars and will take the time to fiddle with it if needed and not some flatrater that just wants to fail it to milk you out of money , (I am lucky they do smogs at the dealership I work at). Most of the Mgb's issues were d.p.o's who had put on the wrong carb and a bad cat and smog pump, ( the $150.00 reduction is selling price for it not smogging wasn't a good deal)!
Good luck and let us know how it goes

[So Cal Mark]

where in Calif are you?
As stated, all of the equipment needs to be working properly or it will be impossible to pass. If either the egr or air injection system is sub par, you will have to make adjustments to compensate. Set the timing 3 degrees retarded from the factory spec. Make sure the air filter is clean. Make sure the smog tech warms the car up properly before the test or the catalyst won't be hot enough to work efficiently.

[SpiderHead]

As you just read, there is no easy answer to your question.

to start, I would take it to a garage for a baseline reading. Who knows? It might pass straight up. But I doubt it.

To get a clean burn, you need strong compression, good spark, and a proper fuel mixture. Your smog system needs to be operating properly etc....

In Southern California we are lucky to have Mark. In Oakland, I don't know who I would take it to. I'm sure though that there is someone close by that knows these cars inside and out.

hmm, is Chris Obert within driving distance?

-Ryan

[mbouse]

move to michigan

zero smog tests, we don't even study for them. of course, when the snow melts, our pot holes are big enough to swallow a 1961 Fiat 500.

[OaklandSpider]

Thanks for all the replies...
Looks like I got my work cut out for me. SpiderHead: Chris Olbert is in Santa Cruz (about an hour and a half south) if I have found the right guy. I'm looking for a mechanic closer to take a look, but I'm thinking I might just give it a try and see what the results are, so I might get some insight as to what needs to be done to pass future tests.
I'll let everyone know how it goes (pass or fail).
Thanks again for the tips...
Peter

[OaklandSpider]

Again, thanks for all the great comments...
here's a link to short video made documenting the new car.
things I've noticed:
1. oil gauge not working
2. oil leak dripping onto head, causing smoke...hard to see in the video (it's right where the footage cuts off, I'll post a better link today)
3. radiator fan not coming on (not getting above 190 degrees though, never has. What's a good way to test it?)
4. a couple of disconnected hoses (one from the EGR, one from the ....)
5. small radiator leak near the bottom (bottom, right side when looking at it from underneath)
other than that, she starts right up and runs strong. Not too bad after PO said she's been sitting for three years (and she had the 2" coat of dust to prove it).
Hope you enjoy the video and all comments are welcome...
Peter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HugcrjGSMRg

[OaklandSpider]

Check one thing off the list...
radiator fan IS working...just never got it hot enough to turn on.
I'll post some SMOG results tomorrow.
Peter

[OaklandSpider]

If anyone is still interested:
SMOG test results...
CO2%: PASSED
O2%: PASSED
HC (PPM): PASSED
CO% FAILED MAX @ 15 MPH-1.46...SCORED 1.94
MAX @ 25 MPH-1.26...SCORED 2.07
NO (PPM): PASSED
SOME OTHER REMAKS: emisisons high, vacuum hoses defective, gas leaks (see photos), timing belt cover missing.
It was much closer to passing than any of us thought, but still some setbacks...
Any CO% experts out there care to chime in? I would love any insight to get this thing passed...
I also found a cracked catalytic converter (see photos)
All comments welcome...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3544/329 ... 8df4_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3573/329 ... 737f_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3452/329 ... 018f_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3440/329 ... b82c_o.jpg

[So Cal Mark]

what was the Nox reading? You have to be careful with changes, leaning out the CO will raise the Nox. Have you made sure the air injection system is working? It's common for the air injection rail to become clogged with carbon, and that makes the air injection non-functional

[brad131a4]

What has a missing timing belt got to do with passing emissions? Summit racing has universal cats for $50 to $70 last time I looked. Easy to weld in if you have a mig. Not to much either to have a local welder do it to. Oil leaks are just part of the plan with a fiat just better get used to it. Might need a little smaller gas line hose to fit better on the hard lines. Work on the vacuum lines those can be a pain with the old cloth covered ones. I've found leaks in what looked like a perfectly good line because the rubber underneath degraded. I've gone to silicone for mine as it's a cheap fix.

[OaklandSpider]

Mark...
NO (PPM): MAX @ 15MPH-1434...I Scored 608
MAX @ 25MPH-1294...I Scored 532
Those are the numbers I have...
The guy said I was incredibly close all the way around...some possible ideas he had:
1. clean the air filter (it's pretty clean as it is, but I'll put a new one in before the actual test)
2. the gas mixture could be a bit rich
3. faulty vacuum hoses leading to low(er) compression
4. timing was off
what does this mean to you?
all of his suggestions make sense, just trying to figure out which (meaning all) bases I should cover
Peter

[SpiderHead]

You are really quite close to passing your smog test. Those numbers look very good!

The video showed you to be idling a little rough though.

Passing might be as simple as new plugs, points, cap... and a little patient tweaking on the carburator by someone that knew what he was doing while it is on the scope.

Then again, more than likely just a tweak to the carb is all that is required. Take your readings to a garage that smogs AND repairs, and negotiate with them on what is needed in dollars, and in labor to get it to pass ahead of time.

You will be carving the back roads in no time!

Looks like you bought a solid runner! Gratz!

-Ryan

[So Cal Mark]

it all hinges on whether the air injection system is really working. If it is, you'll have to rejet the carb to lean it out. Enlarge the primary air jet, and reduce the idle jet.
Universal cats are no longer legal in Calif, and I doubt you'll find a muffler shop willing to install one. The potential fines are huge, and if the smog shop sees a new cat they may check it for the Calif certification.
Set the timing to spec, then retard it 3 degrees. That is the max variation allowed. That will help reduce Nox, which is going to increase when you lean the fuel mixture out.

[ga.spyder]

Hey Peter,
Gald to see you over here.I didnt realize you were already a member when I suggested it In rural Ga.,we have shops that specialize in taking off cats,mufflers,etc..! Obviously, we have no emission testing.What would you expect in a place where its legal to run around with guns on a rifle rack in your back window.
These guys will give you the help you need to get her smogged.Sounds like you are on the right track!
Craig