Megasquirt Fuel and Ignition Control

Make it go fast! Kick it up a notch. Post tips in here.
Post Reply
Hjulen

Megasquirt Fuel and Ignition Control

Post by Hjulen »

I have finished my installation and tuning of my Megasquirt v2.2 Engine Management system with Ford EDIS distributerless ignition for spark control. I did this at the same time that I installed a rebuilt head and motor. Here is a basic rundown of the setup if you are not familiar.

The megasquirt ECU replaces the old bosch L-jet ecu and can reuse the old wiring harness. I created a patch cable to go from the new ECU to the old L-jet connector. (approx. $300-400 all told from http://www.diyautotune.com.) **If you use an older style 2.2v board be sure to update it with a flyback board or external resistors in order to properly run the stock fuel injectors.**

The AFM can be removed or left in place as long as you modifiy the spring so that the flap is open at all times. All the old temperature sensors can also be reused but if you remove the AFM you need to buy another intake temperature sensor (approx. 20$)

The Ford EDIS system comes from early 90s Fords of many types and runs off a crank sensor that reads a 36-1 tooth wheel. See http://www.millersmule.com for the necessary hardware for spiders. (150$ APPROX.) The actual EDIS hardware I got from a junkyard and cost $50 for coil, module, ect. This system has a "limp home"mode so that if it looses its signal from the ECU is will continue to spark at 10 degrees advance so it will still get you home.

The entire system gives me full ability to control Spark advance, the fuel map, acceleration enrichment, warmup enrichment, and dozen other things. My system also has a wideband oxygen sensor that tells me the EXACT air fuel ratio of the engine, not just whether its around Stoich.

Observations: (with 9.8:1 pistons and stock rebuilt head. The car is mostly driven below 3500 rpm and it strictly a street car.)
- More reliable starting
- 20% increase in gas mileage (I have only put about 300 miles on it since rebuild, but this is what I have seen so far.)
- Very smooth running motor with no "flat spots"
- No problems while running cold. (granted its not "cold" in Florida in the summer)
- Very strong spark

Matter of fact, the spark was so strong that it was feeding back through my entire electrical system and resetting my ECU while driving causing a very scary stuble above 2000 rpm. This was fixed by using NGK "resistor" type spark plugs.

Downsides:
- More complex then stock system. All the components are reliable when setup properly. Its just doing it right that is the hardpart.

- Takes time to setup and a willingness to troubleshoot. I am only 19 years old and this was my first motor/fuel injection/tuning project ever and I did it entirely off information I got from the web. Just don't give up if you think you hit a wall, the answer is out there.

- Costs money (I wish it was free)

I will post some pictures if anyone is interested. I eventually would like to go to a big valve, hotter cam, individual throttle body setup, but that is for the long future. Sorry for the long post.
So Cal Mark

Post by So Cal Mark »

did you use the stock injectors or go to a higher flow inj?
mbouse

Post by mbouse »

James, sounds like you learned a lot more than auto modifications. Great write up too!

Although I am not into performance mods for myself, I am always interested in viewing the handiwork of others. I for one would love to see your pics.

And, I believe you are correct. With sufficient perserverance, most answers are obtainable. Far too often, in our fast food society, we expect instantanious gratification from everything we attempt. Sticking to a difficult task seems to be a lost concept to many. You should be proud of yourself.

Looking forward to those pix.....
Hjulen

Post by Hjulen »

Mark,

I used the stock injectors and it works great AS LONG AS you use the flyback board for the older 2.2v (the newer 3.0 board has it built in) The reason for this is that all L-jet cars are equiped with low impedance (or resistance) injectors and the megasquirt is designed to run high impedance injectors which draw more current.

You can run the stock injectors without the flyback board, which I did for over a year before I converted to the EDIS ignition. However, what happens is the injector driving circuitry in the Megasquirt slowly fails and starts overfeeding current to the injectors, causing them to stick open until the circuitry fails all together. This happened to me on the scariest bridge in town leaving me stranded. So don't listen to anyone who thinks you dont need the flyback board, a MS system WILL NOT BE RELIABLE WITHOUT. Besides, it only costs like 30$.

I may upgrade my injectors in the future if I eventually upgrade the cams and the induction system. I think my injectors no longer deliver a consistant spray pattern and flowrate simply from being over 25 years old.
So Cal Mark

Post by So Cal Mark »

I was just curious if you had gone to a higher flow inj. Great job on the upgrade and post.
spiderrey
Posts: 2623
Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2006 2:08 pm
Your car is a: 70 124 spider-74x19-03 ranger edge
Location: San Dimas, Ca

Post by spiderrey »

pictures please
Hjulen

Post by Hjulen »

Here are some pictures of the installation. Keep in mind I haven't cleaned/dressed up the wiring much since I have been more worried about tuning and other issues.


Image
This is a picture of the kit as it arrived from http://www.diyautotune.com; It is very well organized, "easy" to assemble and the customer service from DIY is unmatched.

Image
Engine on a stand. You can see the custom pulley made by Jason Miller.

Image
This is a picture of the engine as it is being installed with my buddy Andrew operating the crane. Nothing too much to mention here other than our make shift crankcase breather hose.

Image
Good shot of the EDIS trigger wheel and the crank position sensor. The crank sensor mount attaches where the timing mark bracket used to be. I bought the sensor for 20$ at Advance auto and got its connector from a junkyard for 1$.

Image
The ECU is mounted in the glove box. You can see the serial to USB cable I use to attach to the laptop. The grey wires you see in there are "shielded," which means they are wrapped in a braided aluminum which is grounded on one side. This shields the wire from electrical noise and interference which is very important for the tach/ignition signal.

Image
This is a picture of the new TPS with custom bracket I had machined by a local CNC machinist. The stock TPS is a "switch type" with only two working settings, IDLE and wide open throttle. This new one is a variable potentiometer type which gives a signal at all throttle openings. This is used for accel enrichment.

Image
This is a view of the engine bay with the EDIS system. Notice that one of the spark plugs wires is too short. I am going to have to either get custom ones made or go junkyarding to get it right.

Image
I mounted the module and the coil where the old coil used to be. Excuse the undressed wiring.

Let me know if you guys want to see anything else.
spiderrey
Posts: 2623
Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2006 2:08 pm
Your car is a: 70 124 spider-74x19-03 ranger edge
Location: San Dimas, Ca

Post by spiderrey »

how much does the air plenum stick up above the cam cover?
spiderrey
Posts: 2623
Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2006 2:08 pm
Your car is a: 70 124 spider-74x19-03 ranger edge
Location: San Dimas, Ca

Post by spiderrey »

one more silly question. is the air plenum reversable on the intake manifold. can it be instsalled with the opening to the drivers side?
bandit

Post by bandit »

To answer your Q Rey it can be done but not without a few mods to the
top portion of the manifold about half the bolt holes match up and
on 1 side the shape of the manifold leaves a gap that would need
to be welded to fill in the space but it is a good up grade I'm thinking
of doing myself and have look at mine already .


Dan
Post Reply