Steering Effort

Suspension related stuff goes in here.
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Byrd48
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2024 7:18 am
Your car is a: 1980 2000

Steering Effort

Post by Byrd48 »

Hi,
I recently replaced the control arm bushings and ball joints on the front end. I reassembled everything, still on jack stands, but it seems like it takes more effort than it should to turn the wheel, again still on jack stands with no tires on the car.
Is there anything I could have done in reassembly that would cause this? I didn't replace any steering components, just the ball joints and bushings.
Thanks!
Jon
bobplyler
Patron 2022
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Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:58 pm
Your car is a: 1979 spider 2000
Location: Charlotte, NC

Re: Steering Effort

Post by bobplyler »

A couple of years ago, I replaced the control arms, with ball joints and bushings. One of the ball joints was dry, and the steering effort was real high. I replaced that ball joint. You can check if one is bad by unhooking the tie rods and seeing if one side is harder than the other. Then detach one of the ball joints, and see if it's the lower or upper.
1979 Fiat Spider (since new)
2005 Lincoln LS (the wife's car)
2003 Chevrolet Cavalier (daily driver)
1999 Honda Shadow VLX 600
1972 Grumman Traveller 5895L (long gone).
18Fiatsandcounting
Posts: 3837
Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 11:23 pm
Your car is a: 1969 and 1971 124 spiders
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

Re: Steering Effort

Post by 18Fiatsandcounting »

Jon, how stiff is it? New ball joints will be a little stiff until they wear a little bit, but it shouldn't be significantly different (than the old ones) when turning with the steering wheel. Ideally, with the front wheels off the ground you should be able to rotate the wheel by grabbing the tire and twisting, and you'll see the steering wheel spinning rapidly. Make sure your steering wheel isn't locked. If it's too stiff for you to be able to do that, you might have gotten some ball joints that are somewhat frozen up. They *probably* will loosen with time, but no guarantee.

The control arm bushings shouldn't have any effect on the steering. The other thing that can cause stiff steering is a worn idler assembly (passenger side), but if that worked fine before, that's probably not the issue.

-Bryan
85redpini
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Your car is a: 1985 pininfarina spider

Re: Steering Effort

Post by 85redpini »

Byrd48 wrote: Sun Mar 02, 2025 9:05 pm Hi,
I recently replaced the control arm bushings and ball joints on the front end. I reassembled everything, still on jack stands, but it seems like it takes more effort than it should to turn the wheel, again still on jack stands with no tires on the car.
Is there anything I could have done in reassembly that would cause this? I didn't replace any steering components, just the ball joints and bushings.
Thanks!
Jon
hard steering is usually the idler arm.
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Byrd48
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2024 7:18 am
Your car is a: 1980 2000

Re: Steering Effort

Post by Byrd48 »

I just tried grabbing the tire and I’m unable to turn it at all. The back joints are new and when I installed them, the joint initially turned with the nut and I had to apply pressure on the control arm so I could tighten the back joint nut. So they did move freely until I tightened everything down and put the springs in. I currently don’t have shocks installed, not sure if that would make a difference. Thanks!
18Fiatsandcounting
Posts: 3837
Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 11:23 pm
Your car is a: 1969 and 1971 124 spiders
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

Re: Steering Effort

Post by 18Fiatsandcounting »

The shocks wouldn't make a difference in terms of steering. But, it sounds like you had the springs removed, yes? Any chance something got installed incorrectly, causing the front wheels to lock up? If one wheel is locked up, the other will be as well.

At this point, I'd remove one side of the steering idler arm on one wheel and see if the wheel turns. If it does turn normally, do the same on the other side. If it doesn't turn, something is wrong.

Just FYI: The ball joints will rotate in their tapered socket as you try and tighten the Nyloc nut. To get around this, I first tighten down the ball joint with a standard nut until the tapered joint is well seated, then back off the regular nut and put on the locknut and torque it down.

-Bryan
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