Installing 32/36 Weber and New Intake on my 79

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Do you know the reason for the riser? I could come up with some possible explanations, like the riser thermally insulates the carb from the manifold, the riser has a wider opening so the throttle plates don't hit the sides of the manifold, or the riser is necessary for the longer manifold studs of the original ADHA.

My guess is that the main reason is just the original 4 studs are too long for your new 32/36, so you could replace the studs with shorter ones. As for the throttle linkage, I think it will work OK, and if the rod isn't long enough, you can get a longer threaded rod and cut it to the right size. Or just buy an appropriate diameter steel rod, cut it to size and tap threads on each end.

-Bryan

[Pescado]

Hey Bryan...so based on the video it sounds like he uses the riser because of the throttle linkage. He discards the new studs that come with the new carb which are smaller and would be used I guess in an installation without a riser....anyways not too worried about that as I'll do a test fit before locking anything down.

The below picture does prompt some concerns...Today I found TDC on cylinder #1 using the screwdriver method and confirmed the compression stroke by putting a hose with a balloon at one end and screwed in the hose at the #1 spark plug hole. Is something wrong with my set up or should I just be marking the crank pully with a new TDC mark...the existing mark is pretty far off?

[Nut124]

You really need to figure out where TCD is and produce an accurate and visible TDC mark. The best and most accurate way is by using a TDC finder plug. This is a device that threads into the plug hole and has an adjustable rod that protrudes into the cylinder preventing the piston from reaching TDC. You'd adjust the plug to stop the piston say 10-15 deg before TDC. Place masking tape on the OD of the pulley and rotate crank until it is stopped by the plug. Mark tape for where TDC pointer points. Then rotate the other way until contact, mark tape for TDC pointer. Actual TDC would be in between the two marks. Repeat, recheck.

I see the timing belt is off. The other, quick and less accurate way is feeling the crank by hand with timing belt off. Right at TDC the crank usually turns easy by hand some +/- few degrees around TDC. TDC would be in the middle of this easy rotation.

[Pescado]

You really need to figure out where TCD is and produce an accurate and visible TDC mark. The best and most accurate way is by using a TDC finder plug. This is a device that threads into the plug hole and has an adjustable rod that protrudes into the cylinder preventing the piston from reaching TDC. You'd adjust the plug to stop the piston say 10-15 deg before TDC. Place masking tape on the OD of the pulley and rotate crank until it is stopped by the plug. Mark tape for where TDC pointer points. Then rotate the other way until contact, mark tape for TDC pointer. Actual TDC would be in between the two marks. Repeat, recheck.

I see the timing belt is off. The other, quick and less accurate way is feeling the crank by hand with timing belt off. Right at TDC the crank usually turns easy by hand some +/- few degrees around TDC. TDC would be in the middle of this easy rotation.

Thanks Nut…well I think today I did find the sweet spot but the mark on the crank pully is still way off. Looks like I’ll be adding another tool to my collection can’t sleep not being 100% certain. I’m a little confused still to be honest…I figured with the parts on the crankshaft all being keyed that I would of lined up at least close to the mark once I put it back together.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I’m a little confused still to be honest…

Me too. I could see where the TDC mark on your new crankshaft pulley might be a little bit off, but that could be adjusted with the pointer secured by two bolts. However, yours is way off, almost like the pulley isn't right for this engine. It looks like a Vick's auto pulley, and it was for the 2L engine, right? Since the pulley is locked to the crankshaft with a Woodruff key, it's almost impossible to get it oriented wrong.

Weird, but I agree with Nut in that you'll have to find TDC and make your own marks on the pulley.

-Bryan

[Pescado]

So, you got me thinking maybe it is the wrong part.... lined up the key holes and timing marks are different. Calling Vick's tomorrow to see what's up

[Anbele]

What I did on mine, was used two spacers sandwiched together…so, from the manifold up you’ll end up with: gasket, spacer, gasket, spacer, gasket, carb. With the middle gasket being of thick type. The spacers I used were these:

https://www.vickauto.com/parts/carb-spa ... u-30-2320/

I replaced the studs with Allen bolts to the proper length. I made sure I installed lock washers on them so they wouldn’t back up on me. It has worked fine so far. There was need to adjust the throttle linkage a bit but I still used the OEM one. Just make sure you checked, either your four bolts or whatever you used to secure the carb down, periodically till the gaskets are fully compressed with the passage of time. You want to avoid any air leaks.

[Anbele]

Apologies…a bit late to the thread

[Pescado]

What I did on mine, was used two spacers sandwiched together…so, from the manifold up you’ll end up with: gasket, spacer, gasket, spacer, gasket, carb. With the middle gasket being of thick type. The spacers I used were these:

https://www.vickauto.com/parts/carb-spa ... u-30-2320/

I replaced the studs with Allen bolts to the proper length. I made sure I installed lock washers on them so they wouldn’t back up on me. It has worked fine so far. There was need to adjust the throttle linkage a bit but I still used the OEM one. Just make sure you checked, either your four bolts or whatever you used to secure the carb down, periodically till the gaskets are fully compressed with the passage of time. You want to avoid any air leaks.

Thanks Anbele,

I've been filling down the old riser for two days now....might be halfway there. Your way certainly sounds easier and will probably look better.

[Pescado]

apparently the crank pully can just be manufactured incorrectly...Vicks is sending me a new one. Good thing I didn't do to much head scratching on this or I'd be bald by now.

[Pescado]

Update....Got the new crank pully from from Vicks (thank you Matt) and this one lines up perfectly. Established TDC with a piston stop tool...all good. Torqued down the intake pully, exhaust pully, and aux pully and went for the timing belt. All marks lined up and managed to get the belt on and feeling pretty good about how things are going. Next step...turn the engine and that good feeling quickly dissipates. Got the engine to turn 180 degrees and the engine hits a tough spot...seeing as this is my first time this stop concerns me and I don't want to push too hard to see if I can pass this tough spot. Off with the belt to see if I can turn the engine past the tough spot and engine turns 360 no issues. I figure I'll start again...so start with the top two pulleys to line them up on the marks and these are really hard to turn now...got the exhaust turned a little and then it sprung back a bit on its own...panic setting in now. Previously when I lined up the top pulleys before torquing they turned pretty easy...are these just harder to turn now because I have them torqued or am I hitting something and this is also why the engine stopped at 180 degrees? The aux cam is lined properly so no issues there....thoughts?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

One trick I use is to remove the spark plugs so at least you aren't fighting the compression as you try to turn the engine by hand.

The camshaft will have periods where the rotation is harder, due to the opening of the valves as the lobes start pushing on them. Occasionally the cams can spring back if you started to push on a lobe, then stopped, then the valve spring action pushes the lobe back the other way. That's normal.

It's really hard to describe what is normal and what isn't, as it's mostly a "touchy feely" thing that you learn with experience. A hard stop on either cam or the crankshaft is not good, but the engine will have periods where you can almost turn the crankshaft with your hand, and other periods where you encounter some resistance with a socket wrench. It's why the engine goes "chug-chug-chug" as you start it rather than a smooth and even sound.

Do you have enough oil in the upper camboxes? If these are dry, it can make the cams much harder to turn.

-Bryan

[Pescado]

Thanks Bryan...took the belt on and off another five times to get things lined up properly (PITA) and this time turned the engine around twice with no issues, I'm not really sure why as I'm pretty sure I didn't do anything different but I'll take the win.

including a picture of how I torqued the crankshaft nut....cut a piece of the old timing belt and wrapped it around the new pully with a piece of tape to hold it on so not to damage the new pully with the chain wrench. Next I rested the chain wrench on the alternator (again a small piece of old timing belt for protection on the alternator) and torqued it down (pretty sure I have a hernia now). Turned the engine around twice again and all clear plus marks still all line up.



Moving along now got the rad and drive belt on....next the carb.

[Nut124]

Sounds like you are making good progress.

You cannot really hurt the valves nor pistons turning by hand unless you use a lot of leverage and force.

If you want to do a sanity check on the cam timing, compare to the picture below. At TDC, cams at #4 firing, #1 IN and EX should both be slighly open a few mm, less with stock cams. The lobes would be pointing away from an imaginary point about 10-12" above the water outlet.

What kind of a piston stop tool did you find?

[Pescado]

Thanks nut...ya I've been contemplating if I should take the valve covers off again to have a look.

Used a cheap piston stop tool like this except I put some tape at the bottom to make it softer.