Unknown Bolt ?

[Blast]

Hello everyone
My first post here, I read a lot of them, but finally had to ask a question of my own. I removed a lot of things to get my transmission out, and when I was putting it all back together, I had a huge oil leak. There was oil pouring out the front of the engine just above the oil filter. I shut the engine down, and found a bolt above the oil filter that was loose, so I tightened it, and all was well. I now have a small leak there, and decided to tighten it again, but when I did, it seemed to be stripped. I do not know what this bolt holds, but the piece it mounts through also is the alternator bottom bolt support, along with holding the oil filter. I am now afriad if I drive the car, it will leak badly again, and I will have a huge problem, because I am not sure if the idiot light works. Any info on what is going on here, and how to remedy the problem would be greatly appreciated.
ps the car is a 78 spider Thanks Blast

[So Cal Mark]

it would be nice to see a pic of the bolt, but it sounds like it's one of the mounting bolts for the filter adapter. If the bolt won't tighten, you'll have to remove the adapter and do a thread repair as well as replace the gasket

[manoa matt]

That "bolt" is actually a brass plug. That auminum casting has two ports on it for sensors. You have the low oil pressure warning light sensor, that takes up the rear port. The plug blocks off another potential port,, for say an oil pressure gauge sending unit. You should drain the oil and remove the plug to check the condition of the threads on the plug as well as the threads in the aluminum casting. It could be as simple as wrapping the plug with a generous amount of teflon tape, however if something is going to be stripped it will be the aluminum threads in the casting, as the brass plug will be harder than the aluminum.

Let us know what you find out. I have several of those plugs, and one of those castings if yours is bad.

Matt

[Blast]

Thanks Matt
I will drain the oil, and do a visual on the threads. Thats a good idea about the teflon tape too!
Thank you too, So Cal Mike, I hope it doesn't come to that, but to fix it properly I may have too. I will let you guys know in a short time what I have discovered. Thanks Blast

[Blast]

I had the front of the car on jack stands, so I opted to chance it by not draining the new oil, and I removed the plug. It didn't leak a drop of oil, thank goodness. The threads on the plug were great, and the threads inside the housing looked great as well. I cleaned the plug, and metal washer, which were already clean and shinny, put five wraps of teflon tape on the threads, any more and the washer would not have fit over it, and reinstalled the plug. And it still does not tighten up, and must be stripped. I do not think it will leak any more than it was leaking, but this does seem like a potentially hazardous situation.
I cannot tell, but maybe someone else can, but it seems like a major job to remove that housing. The timing belt guard has one bolt into the housing, I might have to remove the oil pan, the alternator, and I don't know what else. Then theres the work space that I may need to do all this too. I may leave it like it is untill I need to do something else around that area. Any other ideas or information is welcomed.
Also, my oil pressure light does not come on when I turn the keyswitch. Should it? Otherwise, how would I know if the bulb was not burned out, or inoperable in some way?
Thanks Blast

[pope]

You can always unscrew the oil light sender from the other side of the oil pump plate and see if it fits in the other hole and if the bolt will fit in the old sender hole. Always worth a try. Not a good situation to just do nothing as betting your engine is not worth it. Maybe that bolt is just not the right size from a PO. I think it should be a M14 x 1.5 bolt.

[Blast]

Thanks Pope, I'll try that tomarrow or Sunday, also you've got me to thinking I may get a bolt with longer threads. The plug that is in there, only has about three threads. The size you mentioned will help me at the hardware store, that will be a good starting point. There may be an even better way to seal it permanently. Any ideas besides jb weld will be welcomed
Thanks Blast

[pope]

My suggestion to try the oil sender in the other side is only for fit and not permanent replacement. Its the same size hole and that will tell you immediately if it is the threads in the hole or the bolt. I dont like using JB Weld on an engine bolt. I would rather fix the problem. Lets see if we can find a bolt that fits first.

[WarbirdAL]

To answer your question about the idiot oil light, when you first turn on the ignition it should light up until the engine starts and oil pressure is good. Good luck with your situation. It has to hurt to have a fun car but to be afraid to drive it due to a problem like that.
Al

[Blast]

Hey Pope,
I follow you, then I can use the sensor threads to match another bolt.
When I was young I tried jb weld on everything, and it never worked, but one day I was working on an 85 corolla, and laid a cigarette on the radiator. Next time I looked back at my smoke, it had blown away, and there was a 1/4" by 1" hole in what I discovered was a plastic radiator. I used jb weld on that, and finally had great results, it lasted years, and probably is still working:)

[Blast]

Thanks Warbird Al, now I know where to start on the light.
The way the oil was pouring out of that loose plug, was about like taking the drain plug out. It was scary. Untill, its sealed good, I got to admit, driving it would not be fun. This is definetly top priority. And thanks to everyone for all the help and info.

[So Cal Mark]

so it wasn't a bolt, but a pipe plug?

[Blast]

Well, it is a bolt, but only goes in as deep as the threads in that housing, about a 1/4". It plugs up a threaded hole where some type of sensor would go, like an oil pressure sending unit.