cold start 1980 FI help!

[DutchSpider]

Pull the two hoses at the AAV and look through it when the engine is cold and make sure you can see daylight, in the form of a triangular opening. This opening will be closed when the engine is warmed up.

Also check the connections to the thermal sensor at the coolant "T" at the front of the engine. They are frequently damaged due to their location.

2 Possible candidates for this fault.

Pete

Pete,

My connections at the sensor are destroyed but work ok (ish) with electrical tape ! I cant find replacements for the cable and connection. I assume the old cable has to be cut and rewired. But is the connection available ? ( I would also like to buy one for the CSV as that's not snapping into place anymore, but does hang on.

Shaun

[davidbruce]

Bosch fuel injection was common on a lot of European vehicles. The connectors are basically the same whether for the sensors or the injectors themselves. I have purchased aftermarket connectors from the local auto parts store. Generally come ss a pigtail (connector with a short wire harness attached)The Fiat vendors have them. Try googling Bosch fuel injection connector and you will find them.

[spider2081]

I'm wondering how you tested the cold start valve to see it is working.

My understanding of the cold start valve circuit, is that the cold start valve should only operate with the ignition switch in the "start" position. This is the only time the cold start valve and the thermal rime sensor/switch get power. The cold start valve ground is provided by the thermal time sensor/switch for something less than 10 seconds. Testing the cold start system in the car is tricky as depending on outside temperature the test would have to be completed before the thermal time switch times out. (10 sec)
The thermal time sensor/switch does not activate the cold start valve if the coolant temperature is above 95F or if the ignition switch has been in the "Start" position over 10 seconds.

The cold start vales operation is time limited so the engine should not flood with too much fuel.

I believe the thermal time sensor/switch (brown) connector is the only 2 pin connector used i the L-Jetronic system that is polarity conscious The power pin from the dual relay must be applied to the correct pin on the thermal time sensor.

[rridge]

Bosch still makes a L-Jet harness connector repair kit. It allows you to remove the broken connector or wiring going into it and replace it with a new connector. You must however have an extra inch of two of play on the harness leads to allow you to cut off the old piece and strip back fresh wire ends. The kit also comes with a sheath that covers the last few inches of the harness and prevents further damage to it. It is available on Amazon for $15. The Bosch part number is: 1-287-013-003

[spider2081]

The Bosch part number is: 1-287-013-003

Thanks rridge great information.

[greenspider]

Also 1980 FI. How much of the hole opening should be visible when the AAV is cold. Mine is a very small triangular wedge near the bottom when cold and fully closed when warm. Runs very rough and dies when cold but great after warm up. I temporarily bypassed AAV and idles at about 1500 rpm. What’s typical cold idle rpm until warmup? I put the valve in the freezer and the hole opened a tiny bit more. Should the hole opening be larger when cold? Thinking of going to manual AAV. Would this still pass smog visual? Thanks for any insight. Tony