Getting lots of oil in intake on new engine

[Jsutton]

The only thing about that is last test with no spark plugs in did not create/develop oil leak. I will repeat testing with and without spark plugs when I have the breather hoses disconnected and isolated.

[Nut124]

I would not drop the oil pan for this at this time. Nothing there can affect this oil problem.

The tube in the middle of the crank case breather is the oil return tube. There are supposed to be good size passages from the crank case to the sides on the separator cap for vapor to enter. The only way oil could push up in the tube is if these passages were blocked.

So, I would consider removing the separator cap and probing these passages.

Also, I would address the not starting problem. I cannot really see how it could be related to the oil problem, but it does not sound normal. I would review cam timing and ignition timing. An engine should try to start even if ignition is off a bit.

I'd set you engine to your TDC firing position, #4 firing, remove the cam box covers and inspect:
- #1 IN and EX cam lobes pointing down, so that lines from the tip of the lobe, thru the C/L of the cam would intersect about half a foot above the head.
- Dizzy rotor pointing to #4 electrode under the dizzy cap.
- Plug wires in corect order.



I ran a stock oil pan for 20+ years. Hit 7500rpm every time I drove her including numerous trips to the road course track near me, where I ran with autocross tires. The stock pan is not good for racing, but I never saw the oil pressure light come on and bearings looked perfect when I rebuilt the engine back in 2020. Racers use accusump rather than built pans. I modified my pan with some baffles, not sure how effective it is.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... hLY0pITWFR

Note: The GoPro remote mic is in the trunk next to the electric fuel pump. Thus the ticking noise.

[Jsutton]

Update here, back from vacation. I connected both breather ports to individual hoses and connected to a combo vacuum/pressure gauge in each with a valve and final output to puke in a large coffee can so I could isolate and study. I cranked the engine (using a remote starter so I could be working and watching under the hood) with no spark plugs and nothing - no pressure, no vacuum, no oil from either line in any permutation or combination of valves open or closed. I then repeated this with the #1 and # 4 spark plugs installed (had about 220 pounds compression on these and a bit less on #2 & 3) and still nothing - no pressure, oil, etc., so I put all the plugs in and still nothing.
I checked the timing and it was 180 off, surprised because I am usually pretty careful about that kind of stuff, but anyway fired it up without the air boot connected and the breather hose ready to puke into coffee can. It did fire and rev but wouldn't sustain - fuel injected version needs that big hose connected for the air intake flapper to do it's job, but no oil spitting out like before, so I put it all back together and fired it up to about 2000-2500 rpm for a couple minutes and..... nothing, no oil, no problem! Done a couple times now, all good.

My theory here is that since the engine sat for a few years since it was rebuilt and was never run that those center cylinders with slightly lower compression had stuck rings and was getting some blowby causing some crankcase pressure, just needed a little more time and force to cut the crap and do their job. Next stop is the alignment shop since I totally rebuilt the front end - I don't want to grind my new tires down on break-in and test drives. Thanks for all the help and advice!