DROPPING DRIVE SHAFT, PULLING ENGINE/TRANS TOGETHER

[RRoller123]

Pulling the 2L engine and transmission as a unit, possibly as quickly as tomorrow.

Does one have to remove the steering center link to get the combo 2L engine/trans out? It looks like it might be a problem.

How does one disconnect and/or remove the driveshaft? I am thinking all in one piece, first mark and disconnect the differential, and disconnect at the transmission rear, remove the safety bar, drop it all in one piece. But in staring up at it from a cold concrete slab, half delirious, I don't see the logical way to disconnect it from the transmission? Take the guibo apart?

Thanks.

Pete

[SteinOnkel]

Unbolt the rear at the differential, drop that piece down, then remove the donut bearing and safety loops. Disconnect the the three bolts that hold the guibo to the driveshaft. Give it a good yank and it'll pull out.

[dinghyguy]

I believe you need to remove the centre link to get the engine/tranny as one item. The angle is really steep. There are a couple of Utubes with people putting the combination in and you can see how steep it is. Not to mention the rad must come out as well.

why are you taking the driveshaft out? When i took my tranny out and replaced the clutch i just disconnected it from the rubber donut and let it droop carefully down on to some blocking. After the tranny was back in i just reinstalled the bolts.

good luck and have fun.

dinghyguy

[RRoller123]

Thanks guys, that is helpful. We will see how it goes. Fortunately, or unfortunately, it is January in New England, so there is no rush on finishing any of this stuff. The engine is getting new High Compression pistons, a cleaning, boring and balancing, and the gearbox needs a major inspection and some work. Has a bad input shaft bearing that I have let go far too long.

I also have a driveshaft company right down the street from me, and if they are not too expensive, I may have them take a look at balancing it. But to answer your question, it doesn't have to come completely out to get the important work done.

Those "3 bolts that hold the guibo to the driveshaft" are what has been confusing me.

However, the steep removal angle may prove to be a real problem, and thus the block and gearbox may have to come out one at a time. We will see, no rush. Radiator is out, engine mostly disassembled already. Head off, water pump off, starter out, manifolds off, etc.

Pete

[RRoller123]

What about that center steering link on a 2L engine? It looks like it would be a major interference item?

[81SPIDERMATT]

subscribed....getting ready to do the same thing.... i would be interested in how high the front will be lifted compared to the back...or if the back needs to be lifted at all after removing drive shaft...and wondering if stick shift will need to be removed? ....Matt

[RRoller123]

Yes, shifter to be removed, released from below, pulled out the top. A triangular plate with three bolts, located just above the guibo is to be removed, then a nut removed, and I believe that the shifter lifts right out. Will know in an hour or so if this is correct.....

I have a sneaking suspicion that this is going to come out one element at a time, first gear box, then engine. We will see, pita for sure, first and last time I will do this, so taking my time.

Pete

[RRoller123]

Got the transmission out yesterday with the help of the incomparable Tim Aucella.

Dropped it rather than remove the engine and trans together. It was, I believe much easier to do it this way.

Disconnected driveshaft at the Differential, pulled safety bar and the pillow block mount, and just pulled it straight out the back in one piece.

Pulled the entire shifter out through the top, by removing the 3 bolt access plate below and removing the one nut holding it in place. Quite easy, no messing about with the shifter extension or any of the car interior pieces. Just watch out for teh springs, etc that could be easily lost.

Unhook the speedo, clutch cable backup light etc, then with a combination floor jack and bottle jack, we coaxed it backwards an inch or two and slowly dropped it. Much easier than we anticipated.

Now to do Tim's car and then have these parts looked at and worked on.

[tima01864]

Removing the shifter was key, I would not of thought to do this if my shifter lever had not come apart over the summer. Confident I can replace the noisy throwout bearing now, probably in a day. Good working with you Pete!

[RRoller123]

Yes, good team, enjoy working together! Yours comes out next. My block maybe during this week, but we have a very busy schedule, so that may not happen.

Removing the entire shifter was certainly key. (As was pulling the complete driveshaft). Very easy to remove the shifter. No fooling around with any interior console components, or that idiotic mechanism that they used to connect the rotating top to the bottom of the shift stick. Very easy to do.

And I am glad we took the transmission out separately, no tilting of the car or engine on lift, much lighter lifts with the individual components, and the partially disassembled block will now come out very easily, just about straight up. I can probably do it alone. (although from a safety standpoint it may be unwise to do that).

[geospider]

pulling my engine as well.
with head off, what lift points did you use?

doubt I will pull trans; no work being done on that

thanks,

Geo

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I support the engine oil pan with a jack, then remove the two nuts that hold the engine brackets to the motor mounts, then raise slightly, then lift out the engine by its mounting brackets. This method allows the engine to swivel a bit, which is helpful as you pull it out, but use care so that the block doesn't flip over.

Some people use two or three threaded holes in the block where the head bolts were.

Safety tip: Remove the radiator, even if you don't think you need to. Inevitably something will bash into the radiator, potentially causing damage.

-Bryan

[Nut124]

Bryan, is the block not tipsy, top heavy, when lifted by the mounts?

When I rebuilt mine, I removed and re-installed the engine with the trans attached. I hate working on the trans under the car.

A good hoist with an adjustable harness is required for this, and some patience.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Bryan, is the block not tipsy, top heavy, when lifted by the mounts?

Yes, it is, and that's why I mentioned to take care that the block doesn't flip over. Truth be told, I've never had a hoist, so I just wrapped some rope around the engine, stood with one foot on the cowl and one on the front crossmember (in front of the radiator) and just did a dead lift. Use your legs, not your back. The block is about 200 lbs, maybe less. As the former Gover-nator of California would say (Ah-nuld), "You just need to work owww-t." Gotta love that guy, even if I didn't agree with his politics.

-Bryan