Fuel pump & filter relocation?

[nicktheviking]

It looks like I have to drop my tank to clean. While it's out, I was wondering about the viability of re-locating the pump and filter to in-trunk.

Or does the fuel pump have to be below the tank outlet?

[So Cal Mark]

you really need the pump to gravity feed from the tank. Those electric roller pumps don't create much suction, just tons of pressure

[nicktheviking]

Thanks Mark.

Can you recommend a good product for cleaning out my tank?

[So Cal Mark]

if it's just sand and silt, wash it with almost anything. If it's rust, that's a problem

[nicktheviking]

I think there are rust flakes. I don't really have the time to deal with re-sealing the tank. You don't happen to have any rust-free spare gas tanks, do you?

[So Cal Mark]

no fi tanks

[pope]

Do this only if the tank is out of the car. Cover the holes with plastic wrap and pull ties. Pour a quart of acetone or lacquer thinner in the tanks top hole where the fuel gauge indicator was, along with a 18" length of thick chain. Slosh it around for an hour, by turning it and making the chain move into the different sections of the tank. slosh it and leave it, come back and slosh it from time to time. It will dissolve the varnish from the old gas and the chain will break up the loose rust and leave you with a pretty clean tank. Dump out the old liquid into a container and remove the chain. Let air dry. Done. The surface rust is usually on the bottom of the tank and rarely goes up the sides.

[nicktheviking]

Do this only if the tank is out of the car. Cover the holes with plastic wrap and pull ties. Pour a quart of acetone or lacquer thinner in the tanks top hole where the fuel gauge indicator was, along with a 18" length of thick chain. Slosh it around for an hour, by turning it and making the chain move into the different sections of the tank. slosh it and leave it, come back and slosh it from time to time. It will dissolve the varnish from the old gas and the chain will break up the loose rust and leave you with a pretty clean tank. Dump out the old liquid into a container and remove the chain. Let air dry. Done. The surface rust is usually on the bottom of the tank and rarely goes up the sides.

Thanks, pope. I'm 'sloshing' as I type this.

[pope]

There are baffles in the tank that go about 2/3 of the way up the tank. That leaves the top of the whole tank open. To move the chain from baffle to baffle, the tank must be turned upside down and tip it so the chain goes into the next baffle. Continue till you have done all baffles.

Good Luck

[nicktheviking]

Well, got the car running.

Many thanks to Ron Luxmore, who came down to turn wrenches with me.

I'm still not sure what the original problem was, as I've had no time to go back and test my old relay. Chances are, the problem was a blown double relay or a clogged fuel hose... the tank-to-pump hose's interior rubber was deteriorating.

To make the repair more confusing, my brand new fuel pump turned out to be a dud!

Of course that segues me into my next issue... I started the car this morning and it ran fine. About halfway to work, it started hesitating and there was no power. I limped all the way to my parking spot and shut off the car. Now when I go to start, it'll fire up and die. If I give it some throttle, it struggles and then shuts off. It smelled like it was running really rich when I pulled in.

My money is on a sticky AFM flap, as we did lots of AFM flap touching while we were troubleshooting. I'm going to go play with the AFM on my lunch break. Keeping fingers crossed.