soon to be rebuilding a 2L. plan to change out all the necessary bolts.
what have you all done in this situation? measure and order from ARP,? etc?
geo
New bolts for a rebuild
- geospider
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Re: New bolts for a rebuild
Buy this, for sure:
https://allisonsautomotive.com/collecti ... and_lancia
Best of luck with your rebuild!
Todd.
https://allisonsautomotive.com/collecti ... and_lancia
Best of luck with your rebuild!
Todd.
1988 Mazda RX-7
1979 Fiat Spider 2000
1978 3/4 ton Chev 4x4 P/U "FRANKENTRUCK"
1976 Camaro
1972 VW Superbeetle
1969 Ford F100
1968 Mustang coupe
1979 Fiat Spider 2000
1978 3/4 ton Chev 4x4 P/U "FRANKENTRUCK"
1976 Camaro
1972 VW Superbeetle
1969 Ford F100
1968 Mustang coupe
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Re: New bolts for a rebuild
Other than the head bolts that Todd mentioned, I've always just reused the old hardware. Assuming there are no bent bolts/studs or threads that are buggered up. There are some bolts/studs that go into oil galleys, so I use thread sealant on those. Actually, since I never can remember which of these go into blind holes and which go into oil galleys, I just end up putting thread sealant on all the bolts that go into the head or block. Non-locking kind, of course. Engine mount brackets, alternator bracket, manifolds, fuel pump blanking plate, water pump, etc.
-Bryan
-Bryan
- geospider
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Re: New bolts for a rebuild
thanks,
I used those head studs when I did the head and have a new set for the rebuild.
thinking about the rest: main and connecting rod bolts, etc
I used those head studs when I did the head and have a new set for the rebuild.
thinking about the rest: main and connecting rod bolts, etc
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Re: New bolts for a rebuild
I've never replaced these with new ones, and I've never had a problem. If I were building a race engine, yes, different story.geospider wrote:thinking about the rest: main and connecting rod bolts, etc
In other words, there's no harm in replacing these bolts with new ones, but it's not necessary for most folks.
-Bryan
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Re: New bolts for a rebuild
If your 2L has never been taken apart before, then I would be totally OK reusing all bolts at the bottom end and flywheel bolts.
I would replace head bolts w studs or the waisted shank torx head bolts. These are easy to find unlike the bottom end bolts.
If your engine has been worked on before, I would pay close attention to torque development of rod bolts when tightening them. Make sure to have a good torque wrench and observe amount of turn vs torque. New rod bolts have been hard to find.
Main bolts should be fine.
I would consider a MLS head gasket. Requires mirror like head surface though.
I would replace head bolts w studs or the waisted shank torx head bolts. These are easy to find unlike the bottom end bolts.
If your engine has been worked on before, I would pay close attention to torque development of rod bolts when tightening them. Make sure to have a good torque wrench and observe amount of turn vs torque. New rod bolts have been hard to find.
Main bolts should be fine.
I would consider a MLS head gasket. Requires mirror like head surface though.
- geospider
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Re: New bolts for a rebuild
Thanks Nut
I have had the head done about 2000 miles ago: only work done on the motor.
i have new head studs in my set of new stuff: I know to always use new ones.
sounds like bottom end bolts will be fine.
I have read where folks mount the engine on a stand one the side of the motor vs rear. I get the convenience; where do you bolt it to.? exhaust studs/intake: is that strong enough?
I have had the head done about 2000 miles ago: only work done on the motor.
i have new head studs in my set of new stuff: I know to always use new ones.
sounds like bottom end bolts will be fine.
I have read where folks mount the engine on a stand one the side of the motor vs rear. I get the convenience; where do you bolt it to.? exhaust studs/intake: is that strong enough?
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Re: New bolts for a rebuild
What's wrong with mounting the block on the stand the normal way, rear? The only part that might have to wait is the rear crank cover.
The head cannot be used as a mounting point as it will be off until the end.
When I tried studs for the head, they were leaking coolant thru the top nut thread. The bolts seal between the head and the washer and the bolt head, apparently. With studs, some kind of a thread sealer may be needed where the studs go into the block.
BTW, I use locktite on the flywheel bolts and the cam, aux shaft bolts. Also on the belt tensioner stud, nut.
The head cannot be used as a mounting point as it will be off until the end.
When I tried studs for the head, they were leaking coolant thru the top nut thread. The bolts seal between the head and the washer and the bolt head, apparently. With studs, some kind of a thread sealer may be needed where the studs go into the block.
BTW, I use locktite on the flywheel bolts and the cam, aux shaft bolts. Also on the belt tensioner stud, nut.