Timing belt...is it easy?

[TulsaSpider]

You can wrap a chain wrench over the crank pulley and lever in to the ground. Now you can wrench on your crank bolt with no engine movement.

I got my chain wrench at harbor freight for less than 20 bucks. Best money I ever spent after inventing new words trying to get the crank bolt off.

Paul

Thanks Paul that's a great tip!!! I didn't have to remove mine thank goodness! (78)

[Tango]

There is a pulley in front that is not used (on mine anyway). Did you wrap the pipe wrench on that one so as not to chew up the surface where the alternator belt normally runs?

[SpiderJim]

Just did my 81 Fi last week and was able to use the impact wrench with a flex connector for the socket. Without that I was fighting the bugger for ages. Came off instantly with the impact. I removed the lower guard and tossed it as it really is of little use. From what I understand the earlier models did not have one and many guys don't even put the timing cover back on. Definitely change the tension bearing and I suggest the water pump also. My bearing was a bunch of ball bearings jumping around inside that lower belt cover so I had a close call and finally found that annoying pinging sound...

[wachuko]

Just did my 81 Fi last week and was able to use the impact wrench with a flex connector for the socket. Without that I was fighting the bugger for ages. Came off instantly with the impact. I removed the lower guard and tossed it as it really is of little use. From what I understand the earlier models did not have one and many guys don't even put the timing cover back on. Definitely change the tension bearing and I suggest the water pump also. My bearing was a bunch of ball bearings jumping around inside that lower belt cover so I had a close call and finally found that annoying pinging sound...

+1 -> I have done it twice now and the impact drill was the way to go.

[Tango]

I'm lining up a pneumatic impact wrench tonight. I dont know how strong it is. A couple of people recommended an electric one, 7.5A, from Canadian Tire and reviewers say they have done crankshaft nuts with it, but I am tired of trying to out-muscle this thing every night with no success. I want to get on with the job. The weather this week has been convertible friendly.

My father-in-law offered me his portable compressor, which got me excited, only to find it is only 2cfm, 1HP, 3 gallon. I dont think that will do it unless the air wrench breaks it free instantly. We'll see tomorrow.

[wachuko]

This is the setup I used. Poor little nut never had a chance

[lfthndmnkywrnch]

I just wanted to add that on the 82 you should not have to remove the crank pulley.Unbolt the timing belt cover ,and maneuver it out.
Craig

Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!

It's timing belt time. I got to the point where I have to remove the lower timing belt cover and (maybe) crankshaft pulley. I don't have the proper tools right now (=impact wrench) so am looking for other ways to go about this without removing the pulley. Someone else recommended a chain wrench, which I don't have either.

Is it *really* possible to change the timing belt without removing the lower timing belt cover (as stated above)? I unbolted it and can get it to wiggle around, but can't for the life of me figure out how to "maneuver it out." How does this even work?

Alternatively, can I put the car in gear and use the transmission to hold the engine still so I can use a giant breaker bar on the pulley nut?

I'm guessing the recommended solution is an impact wrench, but what else works?

Thanks y'all,
Matthew

[bobplyler]

I got the lower timing belt cover off without having to remove the pulley. It was about 40 years ago, but if I remember right, I used some vise grips and tin snips. And a lot of cussing.

[lfthndmnkywrnch]

After much hemming and hawing, I sprung for the $49 Harbor Freight impact wrench. Pulled the lower grill and used some extensions to get 'er done. Bam!

Didn't feel like wrestling with the cover and snips, although I see how it could have been done now that it's all apart. Still practiced my cussing, though!

Now on to the water pump and then my two functioning brain cells have to get it all back together.

Thanks!

[lfthndmnkywrnch]

UPDATE to the above, which I'm finally getting around to writing a few weeks post-completion.

Everything went back together smoothly, except for #2 spark plug hole which needed a thread chaser. Otherwise good.

Matthew's Notes:
- Prior to removing the old belt: once everything was lined up, I used a dot of nail polish on the crank and balance shaft sprockets to mark relative positions to each other in addition to ACTUAL alignment marks...extremely helpful. That way, you can be extra sure it's all going back together the right way.
- To hold the new timing belt in position on the cam and balance shaft sprockets while I wrestled with the crank sprockets and tensioner, I used binder clips. There's enough lip on each sprocket that a medium binder clip can hold the belt in place. Also helped keep the cam sprockets from "rolling" off their marks.
- I coated both sides of the water pump gaskets with wheel bearing grease prior to installing.
- I installed one of the Prestone-type fill ports ($5 at FLAPS) in the heater hose and refilled the system according to procedures found on this site. Car ran fine, but temp tended to creep sitting at lights. After a drive or two, I opened the fill port and topped it off. PSST! Air escaped. Gently squeezed the upper and lower radiator hoses to further burp the system. Made sure overflow bottle was at Max. Filled the port more. Opened the radiator cap and filled there. Lather, rinse, repeat. Drove. Success! Sits right at 190*. No more needle creep. (Slight problem: I don't think my fan comes on anymore. It runs when I jump the two wires, so maybe the switch is bad. Or maybe doesn't have to come on due to cooling system. Added to "Watch" list.)

Thanks to everyone who has written about timing belt/water pump stuff. Lots of good reading and experience.

Drive on!
Matthew

[Nut124]

I'd fix that fan quick.

Head gasket will blow if the engine over heats, even if it happens while idling stationary. Happened to me.

[lfthndmnkywrnch]

No, I get it. Luckily, trips are short and traffic's not too bad around here (knock on wood). But point taken.

It's been added to the ever-growing list: Tranny/diff fluid change, new tires/alignment, check fan & switch, replace speedo & clutch cable, new coil/distributor cap/rotor, new engine hoses, un-Eff the electrics, refurb the injectors, re-do dash, probably brakes sometime, new top (longer term)...sure I'm missing something...

Still love to drive her, though!

Ciao,
Matthew