Motor Mount Replacement - how difficult?

[maxm50]

In following with my motto of "If it's rubber, replace it", I'm thinking about replacing my motor mounts at some point in the future. They're dirt cheap (a whopping $25 for both on Autoricambi), but I'm wondering if this is one of those jobs that's crazy stupidly difficult on a Spider when it looked simple at first (like the brake booster...). Has anyone done this and can comment on it?

Nothing is terribly wrong with my existing motor mounts, but we all know that rubber doesn't age very well. They're probably a lot harder than they should be. The transmission mount is trashed, so that is definitely getting replaced very soon.

[Nut124]

It can be a pain.

In my recent rebuild, I spent a fair amount of time on the mounts.

You will need a hoist to lift and support the engine while you remove, work on the mounts.

Access to the nuts on the underside is problematic. The holes in the crossmember do not like up always. It is easy to get the nut off. A lot harder to start the new nut. Plus, you must use a heavy fender washer with the bottom nut due to the rather large slots in the x-member. Getting the washer and nut started can be tricky.

I had to get the bottom nut/washer started first, with the mount separated from the engine bracket.

Test and see if you can easily get a socket on the bottom nuts.

[SteinOnkel]

but I'm wondering if this is one of those jobs that's crazy stupidly difficult on a Spider when it looked simple at first (like the brake booster...). Has anyone done this and can comment on it?

Ding ding ding! You broke the code!

It's a pain in the ass. You have to reach the bottom fastener through the crossemember. Which is fine for disassembly, but for reassembly it's a disaster. Everything wants to fall down and will usually end up inside the crossmember. Even my gynecologist's fingers are too big to put the nut on through the tiny hole they give you. So you're left with using a socket and an extension. Oh, and the thread in the mount sits at an angle. Delightful.

It sucks. If you want to borrow my engine support bar (I would not do this without one) lemme know.

BTW the new transmission mount is also really wobbly.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

My method to reattaching the nut on the lower stud of the mount is to wrap the outer circumference of the nut and washer(s) together with electrical tape, insert the nut partly into the socket with a long extension, push the washer onto the stud and get the nut started by hand, then pull off the socket and tape, and tighten the nut with the socket and extension and drive ratchet but no tape.

-Bryan

[Nut124]

This is the trick I ended up using:

I had the new mount loose in my hand and the engine hanging a good 4" above normal.

I attached the washer and nut together w silicone. Then, I was able to slide the washer/nut combo in to position with my hand thru the top side opening at the end of the cross member in the engine compartment. While holding the washer/nut in place, I threaded the mount into the nut with the other hand.

Once both mounts had the bottom nut started but still loose, I lowered the engine onto the mounts. Then finally tightened the bottom nuts from under side. It can still be very had to get a socket onto the bottom nut as Steiny points out.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

It can still be very had to get a socket onto the bottom nut as Steiny points out.

Agreed, and most of the time I have to use a u-joint between the socket (17mm?) and the extension, stiffened up with some electrical tape to keep it somewhat flexible but not enough to flop around. Seems like I love my electrical tape, yes?

-Bryan

[wetminkey]

I found that I could get the mount's lower nut/washer in place with my hand, thru the upper crossmember opening, as stated - but it is impossible to start/thread the nut.
However, I found it REALLY easy to leave the mount loose on the engine, and use it (turn it by hand) to start, and thread, the nut (rather than try to turn the nut on the mount's thread, as you would normally attempt). Once started well, I lowered the engine into place and tightened all nuts in the usual manner,...
A swivel ("universal joint") and a socket will get to the lower nut thru the crossmember bottom.
Hope this helps someone,...

[manoa matt]

In the absence of an engine hoist/cherry picker you can use jacks. A wood block on the oil pan lip between the pan and the front crank pully will work, or a block on the crank pully itself with a semi-circle cut out to cradle the pulley.

[maxm50]

Excellent advice - thank you everyone!
Since I have too-large sausage fingers and my motor mounts aren't visibly terrible, I think I'll put this job at the bottom of my to-do list. I appreciate your help in scoping it out!

[RRoller123]

One thing you can do to judge how perished they are is to look and see if you can tell if the top and bottom threaded mounting rods have moved away from being colinear. That is a very strong sign that the rubber has migrated and that the whole system is thrown out of alignment. If they still seem to be colinear, then you are probably ok for now. Might be hard to do this with the engine in, but might not be too.

For example, on my and on Tim's car, when we pulled the blocks and replaced all this stuff, we found one of his Engine Mounts to be nearly an inch out of colinearity! But the rubber didn't look all that bad at first glance.

Pete

[jlopresto]

Thanks Everyone! Worked like a charm.