E brake

Maintenance advice to keep your Spider in shape.
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2000spider
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Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2016 10:48 am
Your car is a: 1981 2000

E brake

Post by 2000spider »

I've got a question maybe someone can help me with. I've got an 1981 2000 When I tighten the e brake tight enough to keep car from rolling, I have the smell of brake burning when I drive. If I loosen it just a little I will roll on the smallest hill. What am I missing? thanks
rridge
Posts: 162
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 11:59 am
Your car is a: 1981 Turbo Spider

Re: E brake

Post by rridge »

The parking brake self-adjusts to provide the proper distance of pads to disc if the caliper has been properly reset when the pads were installed and the pads are the proper thickness. You do not set the pad to disc clearance once they are installed. Yes, the brakes will drag if you try to correct mis-installed pads with the parking brake cable adjustment. The cable must have some free play when the handbrake is released.

Even when the rear brakes are properly installed and adjusted it may take hundreds of miles before new pads are broken-in and grabbing sufficiently hold reliably on any kind of grade. If the pads have been dragged and overheated they may never grab.

The 124 was one of the first mast produced cars to use rear disc brakes. The mechanism is unique and unfamiliar to most mechanics. However, there are many threads on this site that address their service once you master the search function. The proper installation is spelled out in both the factory service manual and aftermarket manuals such as Brooklands.
2000spider
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Your car is a: 1981 2000

Re: E brake

Post by 2000spider »

Thanks for such a quick response They are new, I'm pretty sure they are installed correctly, so I'll give them some time. They probably only have about 50 miles on them have a great day
18Fiatsandcounting
Posts: 3798
Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 11:23 pm
Your car is a: 1969 and 1971 124 spiders
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

Re: E brake

Post by 18Fiatsandcounting »

One other thing to check is to make sure that the metal wedges that hold the calipers in the mounting bracket on the axle are properly lubricated. You can buy a special grease for this (Google "caliper grease" or the like), and I suppose a thin coat of ordinary bearing grease might work well enough. Remove these wedges, smear with the grease, and reinstall.

The brake calipers sort of "float" on these wedges, and if they are corroded or totally without grease, the pads can continue to push against the rotor even when the brakes are released.

-Bryan
DieselSpider
Posts: 2130
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel

Re: E brake

Post by DieselSpider »

18Fiatsandcounting wrote:One other thing to check is to make sure that the metal wedges that hold the calipers in the mounting bracket on the axle are properly lubricated. You can buy a special grease for this (Google "caliper grease" or the like), and I suppose a thin coat of ordinary bearing grease might work well enough. Remove these wedges, smear with the grease, and reinstall.

The brake calipers sort of "float" on these wedges, and if they are corroded or totally without grease, the pads can continue to push against the rotor even when the brakes are released.

-Bryan
You really need the higher temperature caliper grease and it should be renewed at least every 2 years so I do it at the same time as the regular 2 year brake fluid and coolant flushes.
2000spider
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Your car is a: 1981 2000

Re: E brake

Post by 2000spider »

thanks I'm heading out now to check everything
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