Timing Belt Replacement - Can't make sense of covers...pre-job.

[moss1972]

Hi Folks,

I've read many threads and the manual about replacing the timing belt. The procedure I can handle but I have a question about the covers.

I have a 1979 2000. I see the yellow cover with 4 bolts to remove it after the coolant T is out of the way. BUT down by the crank pulley there appears to be another metal cover that needs to be removed so that I can get the belt out from around the pulley. This black, metal cover seem to be RIGHT UP AGAINST the pulley leaving no clearance to remove the timing belt.

Upon further inspection it LOOKS LIKE this black metal cover slips between the oil pan and the engine block? I've read NOTHING about a secondary cover or difficulties removing it. But I thought it was just the yellow cover...

Can someone shed some experienced light on exactly what covers need to be removed so that I can extricate and reinstall respective timing belts?

Cheers!

[GeorgeT]

I have seen adds for a split cover but there should be just one cover: https://www.riauto.ch/en/fiat-124-spider-engine-timing

[kilrwail]

Should be able to squeeze the belt out through that narrow opening. It's tight but it works, unless your cover has been bent.

[davidbruce]

Both my 2 litres had the second metal cover. You have to remove the crank pulley to remove the lower tin cover. The one time I tried to get the belt past the cover I was uncomfortable with the twisting required to get it past the cover so I removed the cover. I think this cover often gets left off at the first belt Change.

[RRoller123]

+1. Trash that inner cover. Then you can remove the bolt holding the timing marker from rotating, rotate it CCW out of the way and get the belt on the crank pulley easily. Consider splitting the outer plastic cover too, it really helps in the future, so you do NOT have to drain coolant to get to everything under there! If you need a pic, I will take one.

[PaulC]

Don't need to change the belt but a photo of the split cover would be good for future reference

[RRoller123]

Split it at the widest spot of the Coolant T up front, this ends up being at the bottom of one of the small folds on the cover, which will work as a guideline. It is easily done on a bandsaw. Then the existing two top screws hold the top part on, and the middle and bottom screw hold the bottom part on.

This way, you never have to remove the coolant T or drain any coolant to get the cover off to get at anything up front or to change a belt. The only thing that is needed is to remove the alternator/water pump belt, which is a piece of cake.

I suppose a small clip could hold the alignment better at the Left, but I don't bother, it is fine.

[PaulC]

Most excellent!
Next time front end work is needed or the coolant tee messed.with, I'll have to remember this one.

[Spider951]

The culprit "inner" metal cover (the engineering marvel which people tend to throw away once removed) is pictured below as the single piece (lower part of photo) with the one big opening. The bolts that hold it on don't go under the oil pan.

You may also have the other 3 pieces pictured in the upper part of photo; they fit around behind the cam pulley areas; more in the category of a minor nuisance. Curiously, the OE '81 engine of my '81 car had the lower piece but not the upper ones; the used '82 replacement engine currently in my car had the upper engine "tin" pieces but not the lower one. I know the '82 engine was worked on because it has Reed camshafts (definitely not original equipment). [If you care to read that thrilling saga of puzzlement and wonder about that camshaft topic do a search on this website for "Camshafts 101, will this engine run" (or something to that effect); and yes the engine runs great with the exhaust cam 180 out, go figure ].
Hope this helps you understand what you are trying to remove (if you go that route).

[moss1972]

Thank you very much, folks. I do not relish having to pull the crank pulley. It does not seem like they would be enough room to do that without yanking the radiator which isn’t a big deal but a nuisance. I am concerned about leaving the lower covers off because it leaves the timing belt exposed to the elements?

Is there anyway to remove these covers without removing the crank pulley? I may end up trying to get the belt around any gap I can locate but it’s going to be a very tight and annoying job.

I love the advice on splitting the plastic cover, thank you.

[Spider951]

True, not as much protection from elements without the metal cover, but consider this: it only offers about 7 1/2 inches of side cover on the lower left, as viewed from front of car (top photo below) and only about 2 1/2 inches of cover on the right hand side (lower photo below)[ in both photos cover is turned on its side with bottom on the left]. Opinion: From the looks of all the cut-outs and other potentially leaky places, I doubt that the cover is watertight. I would be more concerned if you drive gravel/dirt roads - potential for road material to get in there, but on paved streets, low risk.

[moss1972]

I'm doing the job tonight.

Last night I spent about an hour underneath inspecting everything. I ended up splitting the plastic cover with a dremel. Took that off. Then I actually took the dremel to the very bottom of the metal cover. I cut the metal cover (carefully) while still in place so that the bottom piece is cut on either side of the crank pulley. So it's essentially a small, bottom shroud held in place with one 10mm bolt on the drivers side down by the oil pan. This SHOULD allow me to maneuver the cover out from around the obstacles securing it in place so I can do the job.

I agree that with the cover removed I should be able to slip the timing belt between the lower block by the oil pan and the crank pulley.

FYI...I took out the fan and had TONS of room to work IMHO. I may regret saying that when I get to the actual job tonight...but that's where it stands right now.

I'll be doing my thermostat to a 170 degree performance unit at the same time as the belt. Hey...at least that pesky lower hose won't have to be drained.

[RRoller123]

If the radiator is staying in, a small sheet of 1/4" ply placed in between it and the crank pulley will protect it.

[moss1972]

Okay. Job is done. It took a very deliberate and careful 4 hours. Special tools I purchased were 1.5" socket, chain wrench and crank pulley puller.

We got the yellow cover off, alternator belt, radiator fan, drained the coolant at the thermostat and chose to work the belt around the two hoses instead of remove the coolant T. As we were trying to remove the tin cover we could not get the darn thing to budge from where it was nestled around the crank pulley. We unbolted the water pump pulley thinking it was in the way. It helped a little but still couldn't get the tin cover to come up from behind the crank pulley. We removed the radiator and pulled the crank pulley. Thank crap that it broke free with long levers on the breaker bar and chain wrench. Then the pulley pulled right off in my hand. We nearly did a jig of joy. Here's the fun part NO ONE TOLD US!

Once you get the crank pulley off you notice a nice, little 10mm bolt holding the tin cover on BEHIND THE MOTHER LOVING CRANK PULLEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How in lord's name folks have been telling me, and I've been reading, this can be done w/o removing the crank pulley is just mind blowing. I feel the victim of a cruel joke! LOL If you have a '79 Spider 2000...you are stripping it all down to get that cover off.

Needless to say we bench modified that cover to omit certain portions (cut them the F off). So the belt is PARTIALLY exposed in areas that moldings in the block do a good enough job of covering it. But bottom line...cover went back on but modified so it can be removed without taking any god forsaken, cursed pulleys off.

Also replaced the tensioner. Old one came right off, was a tiny bit gravely inside. New one went on but took a little convincing. Replaced the T-stat while we were at it...170 degree version. Filler her up, tested everything, smacked her behind and sent 'er on her way. Also...don't forget to rotate your engine by hand using a socket on the crank pulley through it's full stroke of travel back to TDC...make sure nothing moved or is clashing inside...which I trust you can feel. I removed the plugs to make it easier to sense any resistance.

Job done. Holy crap. Thank bejeezus!