Engine cuts out after a while.

[PureStyle]

Hi, Not sure if this is electrical or engine related as I'm stumped.

Bit of background.. I live in the UK and the car was running fine, outside temperature was about 19c and the car fan kicks in as and when it should. I stopped the car and left it to idle, then it just dies (This can also happen while driving). Car will not start again until 10/15 mins has passed, then all ok again. This is a re-occurring theme, so much so I have lost faith in using the car as I am not confident it will get me home. That was last year.

Now to bring the story up-to-date, today I started the car fine and once again left it to idle, car purred away nicely although I could smell petrol and it smelled a bit rich, the temperature gauge in the car was sitting just over halfway on about 190, the car idled for about 30 minutes and then just died. I tried to restart it and all i got was a couple of lowish backfires and then nothing. All lights on the dash still work but the motor will not even attempt to turn over. Once again after leaving it for a while it was ok again before you guessed it...died again. I popped the hood/bonnet and with no idea what I am doing jiggled some wires near the radiator that look as though they plug into the big hose that goes to the radiator. I restarted the car and it sprang into life but the temperature gauge shot to the far right of the dial where it stayed although the car seemed very content, the fan kicked in on occasions. The temp gauge stayed all the way to the right until i turned the car off where it went back to zero.

I would really appreciate some advice, I have pics but no idea how to attach them to this post, even have a couple of videos I can send?

Cheers
Rich

[GeorgeT]

It appears you have an injected Spider. It sounds as if you need to go through the electrical system and clean-up all the grounds and connections, including the ground strap from the engine to the chassis. When you clean the grounds coat them with a very small amount of dielectric grease to prevent (or slow down) future corrosion - Fiat used aluminum connectors; aluminum oxide is an insulator. You should get the Bosch Fuel Injection Trouble Shooting Guide for you car (available on-line) and a good multi-meter.

[PureStyle]

HI, I had all the grounds cleaned on its last service as I've heard they can be temperamental. Just looking online, the mention of the Coolant sensor seems like it can do some strange things? Is this located near the radiator at all? Just wondering if the wires I fiddled with made the gauge go all the way to the right?

[Odoyle]

The coolant temp sending unit at coolant-t at the front of the motor can be suspect, along with the connector and about 7 in of wiring behind it can get brittle after 40 years and start to give bad readings. The two sensor on the top of the cylinder head are what give the gauge its readings. Sensor with black cap controls the over heat warning function and pegs needle at 230F. Red cap sensor gives the gauge actual reading.

[PureStyle]

Ahh I see, would you recommend I replace all three sensors? Not that expensive it seems. So that would be the one near radiator and the two on the head.

[tima01864]

The one sensor nearest the radiator and look at the condition of the connector, That can become brittle over time. Both can be found, Just when you replace that connector keep the wires in the same order. I think this is what Odoyle is suggesting.

[PureStyle]

I was going to buy. The cable I fiddled with I think now goes to the Water Temp Sensor, any ideals where I can buy the replacement cable?

WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR 124/2000ie HNG3004393601
TEMPERATURE SENDER UNIT 124/DINO HNG3004448131
WARNING LIGHT SWITCH 124 SPIDER 14/16/18 HNG3007588920

[TeeCee]

I am dealing with this, I think. Actually have been.
I have the gauge working right. I have the fan working right. I cleaned every ground I can find on this car.
I have replaced fuel pump and filter, added a pre-pump filter, added a ground at the tank and pump. I adjusted the MAF to where pump turn on when the flapper opens.
But when it warms up just a bit, it starts bogging down like its not taking the fuel or not getting it. Driving me crazy. Surely, Someone knows what to do.
Oh, I was under there yesterday? and I saw a ground, looked like a big one shaped to fit around where the lower bell housing cover should be.just hanging.

[tima01864]

That is an important ground. Should be attached to one of the bolts holding the inspection plate. I attached mine to one of the starter bolts.

[RRoller123]

Without that attached, the engine is isolated from electrical ground to the chassis/body, and the Clutch cable acts as the ground, causing the cable to fail frequently. Many of us add a second ground from the engine block over to the fender wall, using one of the air pump mounting studs on the block. You can see the unused studs just to the left of the Thermostat.

You can see it in this very old picture, the black cable running under the air filter tray. (not the wire on top, that is the AFM cable), I bought a pre-made battery ground cable at the car parts store, I think 8AWG?, maybe 3 feet long, and attached the body side to a ground up on the fender wall near the distributor. Cheap insurance and gives a little added voltage security.

[TeeCee]

I did attach this ground to the bellhousing where it appeared to have originally been attached. No difference in the way it runs but I do like the idea of adding another and the location you described is perfect.
Any further ideas on what is or can cause this dang thing to keep doing this.

[bobplyler]

I had a similar problem years ago. The car would get hot, and start running real rough. If I was on the highway, it wouldn't do it. But slowing down, and the engine getting hot, it would start running real rough/stop. It would start about 10-15 minutes later and run fine. I was able to track it down to a tiny pinhole in one of the hoses. When it got hot, it would spray a tiny stream on the distributor.

Changing the hose fixed it.