#&%@ - DPO stripped the engine mount bolt

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Did you try removing the 4 nuts that hold the bracket to the side of the engine? Normally, when these are removed, and the top motor mount nut is removed and the engine lifted, the bracket can be removed which makes engine mount removal a lot easier.

-Bryan

[tdskip]

Hi - I have not tried that, and I can see where that would help. Let me try that.

[tdskip]

OK - got the four bits off and then pried the motor mount bracket off. Progress I suppose!

The bottom part of the mount, basically just the metal circle with the stud in the middle are still firmly attached, I’m going to have to find a way to grind out the center stud now?

Seems like only way.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Yes, progress, Skip! OK, so the only thing holding the motor mount in place at this point is the nut on the lower stud from the motor mount through the crossmember, right?

Still no luck on getting a socket on that lower nut and being able to remove it? Impact wrench? If none of these work, then yes, I think your path forward is to hack away at the lower mount until it's gone, gone, gone (to paraphrase Bad Company), using the tool of your choice (sawzall, grinder, dremel, hacksaw blade, chisel, Uri Geller tricks, chicken bones waved with the appropriate incantations, etc.).

-Bryan

[tdskip]

And they all thought I was weird for holding on to those chicken bones.

Thanks mate.

[dinghyguy]

and in the spirit of optimism...… i have seen on other posts how Volvo motor mounts are used to lower the engine slightly. So in the future after you have broken too many blades, skinned your knuckles but got the %^&*& out you might want to consider them if they address any of your clearance problems.

in the meantime, don't mar the paint, it is a show car after all!

dinghyguy

ps all chicken bones used for incantations must be free range organic......and strontium 90 affects the spell the most. so you need a chicken who lived before 1947. (there is actually a market for steel salvaged from structures a built before the atomic age for exactly that reason......they use it in fancy analytical tools)

[tdskip]

Hmmm - let be try to track down what Volvo and how much they lower the engine. Thanks for posting.

BTW - I'm in California so only free range gender neutral triple shot Venti yoga doing chicken here.

[RRoller123]

and in the spirit of optimism...… i have seen on other posts how Volvo motor mounts are used to lower the engine slightly.

This (lowering the engine mounts) will change the driveline angle, unless a similar change is made at the transmission support yoke. It will also induce an angle at the guibo that will be very detrimental, and cause a mismatch at the Differential. Again, unless adjustments are made along the entire system. There is ~0.5 deg of adjustable play available on the stud at the transmission support yoke, full up to full down. Somewhat similar adjustability is available at the guibo, and these two need to match each other and the Diff mounting plate angle as exactly as possible.

[tdskip]

Thanks @RRoller123 , appreciate the thoughts.

Are the engine mounts where the studs go through slotted so there is some front/aft movement allowed?

[RRoller123]

Almost none, they fit the side mounts on the engine quite tightly, but there is some small Roll adjustability. The Crossmember holes are slotted laterally, if I remember correctly. It seems to settle in very well naturally, though. I achieved 0.5 deg differential with respect to the Crossmember with almost no effort. I think it is because the Crossmember has such a deep curve to it, the engine just settles into a good level spot.

I have been too busy lately to draw up the study I did on my car, but I will get it published shortly.

[tdskip]

This isn't working. I can't get access to get a Sawzall in there to cut the remaining thick metal disk off from the crossmember.

I think I am going to have to drop the crossmember to get access to grind that off.

[tdskip]

The manual I have for the car seems to indicate that the crossmember can be removed with undoing 6 bolts?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

The manual I have for the car seems to indicate that the crossmember can be removed with undoing 6 bolts?

Yes, but if you drop the crossmember, that will require removing a good part of your front suspension and unleash a host of other Fiat demons, and lots of wrath. Be ready with 'dem chicken bones and brush up on your voodoo.

So it sounds like your motor mount is "free" but just not from the bottom stud. Can you put a propane torch on that bad boy, burn off the rubber mount (appropriate ventilation required here), grab hold of what's left with vice grips, and twist it off....?

-Bryan

[tdskip]

Good (early) morning. Thanks for the follow-up.

Heat solves a lot of issues but in this case not sure it will work, since the stud/nut refuses to move heating it enough to rotate the metal disk (that used to be the bottom of the engine mount) won't release anything and I worry could fatigue the crossmember. Clever idea, and I appreciate you offering it.

I did try a universal socket - no dice.

So here is where I am at - I know the crossmember is a pain to deal with and I believe introduces issues related to the mounting studs etc

BUT

I'm 3+ hours into the remaining stripped bolt and don't feel any closer to solving the issue. My suspension a-arm bushings are shot, so I need to pull that part of the suspension apart anyway at some point so how much more work is it to just do that and pull the crossmember anyway?

OR

Can't I, since my swaybar is already off to replace those bushings, just disconnect my brake calipers and then drop the front suspension and crossmember as a unit?

[RRoller123]

Here is what it looks like under that mount. Can you slip a hacksaw blade between the top of the crossmember and the bottom of the rubber mount and work through it?