Hi, i'm just considering a respray to brighten up my 1982 gem. Hoping someone knows what the original type of paint used would have been. From what I understand if the new paint we use is incompatible, it can result in all sorts of wrinkling, blistering disasters.
Cheers
Mike
Paint type
-
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:46 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Pininfarina Spider 2000
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
-
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2019 9:31 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider 1800
Re: Paint type
Not sure who you've been told these horror stories by. Probably someone who doesn't know.
The "new" (been around exclusively for more than 15 years now) are low VOC and are sometimes referred to as "water-based" paint which is a misnomer. Solvent-Based paints can be low VOC. Or not.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/04/ ... ive-paint/
Please, do yourself (and your peers) a favor and go low VOC. It will be backwards compatible as long as you use a good primer regardless of whether or not it's solvent or water based.
The "new" (been around exclusively for more than 15 years now) are low VOC and are sometimes referred to as "water-based" paint which is a misnomer. Solvent-Based paints can be low VOC. Or not.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/04/ ... ive-paint/
Please, do yourself (and your peers) a favor and go low VOC. It will be backwards compatible as long as you use a good primer regardless of whether or not it's solvent or water based.
-
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:46 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Pininfarina Spider 2000
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Re: Paint type
Hey thanks for that comment, I thought paint was paint but apparently not. You are right though, it depends on who I ask. The "classic car" restoration place I went to alerted me if I was spraying over the top of existing paint, incompatible solvents can cause blistering. I found an auto body paint forum that stated if painting Acrylic lacquer over Acrylic enamel there would be a high chance of blistering and wrinkling. So then I was getting worried because this is all new to me and I don't want to totally wreck the paintwork.
Then the last place I asked said they use Glasurit which is a urethane paint and there'd be no problems. All I'm doing is respraying the bonnet which has seen better days so we'll see how we go.
Then the last place I asked said they use Glasurit which is a urethane paint and there'd be no problems. All I'm doing is respraying the bonnet which has seen better days so we'll see how we go.
-
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2019 9:31 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider 1800
Re: Paint type
If it's just the bonnet, do it right and go down to bare metal. Then primer, then basecoat and depending on your finish a clear coat.
Gooping a basecoat straight onto old paint will look good for about ~6 months. Then it starts to flake.
Gooping a basecoat straight onto old paint will look good for about ~6 months. Then it starts to flake.
-
- Posts: 2130
- Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel
Re: Paint type
Mine had several coats of different paints underneath the top coat and some of them were still gummy even though it was last painted years before I got it so paint compatibility is an issue. Going with a newer water based paint will prevent you from causing a compatibility issue however if one already exists you have little choice but to clean it all off and start over.
If going with a clear coat its best to not try to mix and match as an incompatible clear coat can curdle your base coat and ruin a paint job.
If going with a clear coat its best to not try to mix and match as an incompatible clear coat can curdle your base coat and ruin a paint job.