32 ADF suggestions needed

[dinghyguy]

Ok, i know the braintrust will have comments, well i hope so!

Removed a functional carb and the boat anchor manifold from a 79 2L engine. Car ran fine after warm up (there was no choke connected and no vacuum advance connected)
Installed a single plane manifold.
Got an old 32 adf carb and already had the rebuild kit.
Took the carb apart, cleaned it up, removed all the jets, emulsions tubes etc. checked they were correct size, they were not, fixed that.
Got a new idle shutoff solenoid
Set the carb up per the instructions for gaps on the butterflys, float level, choke fast idle screw etc.
Started car...ran about 3000 rpm with choke on.....then died. Would not idle
Repeated a few time, and discovered that when throttle was opened quickly car died, or if you let choke open properly it would eventually die
Eventually got car warm enough that choke not in the picture.
Car would only start if choke butterfly was partially closed, if you let it open the car would die no matter what you do with the throttle.
took top off carb, float bowl level looked fine, covered the various orifices.
Basically seems to be acting like there is not enough fuel getting to the system.
Mixture screw seems to have no effect at this point
Accelerator pump gives a wispy mist of fuel, but no squirt or jet of liquid.

my thought include:
checking that idle solenoid is working properly (forgot to check that)
checking accelerator pump on my other car with a 32 adf to see if the wispy vapour is right or if there should be something more.
swapping a fully functioning carb over to enable checking timing and to eliminate other factors except carb, but that is a bit of work and seems to me since it ran before this adventure it should still run.
Oh and when it does run there is no stumbling or missing.....it just kinda slow down gasps and dies.

all suggestions welcome.
cheers
Dinghyguy
checking

[PaulC]

Not to belabor the obvious, but it seems to be an idle circuit problem. Like the idle cutoff is always cut off? Check that it clicks when 12 V is applied to it and it's not stuck and the jet is clear.

[dinghyguy]

Just checked the idle solenoid

All ok with it
Next suggestion?

Dinghyguy

[SteinOnkel]

Accel pump shot should be an actual stream of fuel. Like it's water rushing out of a tiny faucet.

I have the suspicion that you put something back together backwards. Is that likely? I'm not as meticulous with these things as I could be sometimes and have ended up with the darndest symptoms.

Where are your idle speed and mixture screws currently?

Also - take the carb back off the car and flip it upside down. Now turn the idle speed screw all the way out and then back in so that the throttle blade exposes the first (but not the second!) hole in the side of the throat. That is an orifice for idle mixture to flow through and your engine should always be subjected to. The second hole is for enrichment and if that is exposed, the engine is getting all amounts of fuel from everywhere at once.

Cheers
Steiny

[dinghyguy]

ok, so now i am a bit puzzled. The accel pump passage to the venture is clear, BUT the connection between the float bowl and the accel pump space is plugged in both directions. Now i know there is a small ball in there which is supposed to act as a bit of a check valve, but there does not seem to be any way to take that passage apart except for drilling the brass plug out from the top.
I have tried compressed air, heat, some gentle knocking, carb cleaner sitting in the bloat bowl to submerge the passage.....
So looking for some ideas, and no i don't have access to ultrasonic cleaner bath unfortunately.

cheers from the dead carb garage.....
dinghyguy

[blazingspider]

Saw this post on another forum. It was about the pump circuit for a 32/36 Weber but I'm assuming that this circuit is similar to the 32 adfa.

"OLD topic, but I'm having the same issues with the accelerator pump circuit. I've tried compressed air and carb cleaner and the ball still seems stuck. I'm currently soaking it in the parts cleaner but if that doesn't work, any ideas on how to get that ball free??

Solved it using a Water Pik. The tip fit nice and snug into the hole from the bowl into the pump, and the non constant pressure dislodged the ball!"

If you have access to one you may want to give it a shot!!

[dinghyguy]

Yea I saw the water pik post too in my searching.....
I suspect it is time for the drill.
hopefully i can tap the brass bit and pull it out intact enough to use a pattern to make another one or perhaps re use it.

cheers
dinghyguy

[dinghyguy]

Update....
So drilled and tapped the brass plug
Removed it successfully, cleaned it up and ready to put it back in BUT the ball wont come out. Sigh

Tapped it gently
Tried to encourage it to move with a jewelers screwdriver. No such luck

I suspect I will have to drill it out

So can anyone tell me where I can get a new ball

Cheers
Dnghyguy having fun with Weber

[dinghyguy]

success!
more heat, some compressed air, penetrating fluid and some vibration and i got the damn ball out. cleaned it up, cleaned out the passage by hand using a drill bit. Put it all back together and my god it actually runs more or less properly!

drove it around the block a couple of times and there is a definite improvement in acceleration from what was on the car....and i actually now have a choke.

So project is a success, except i mounted the dipstick holder in a place that prevent the install of the original air filter assembly. Minor problem

thanks to all that made suggestions, as always the forum is wealth of knowledge.

cheers
dinghyguy with a working carb!

[dinghyguy]

it ain't over til it's over......and it appears it is never over!

So modified my dipstick bracket and got it out of the way of the intake to the stock air cleaner, took about 5 minutes and one drilled hole. So just mount the air cleaner assembly, close the hood and go for dinner, right?

Not so fast..... Mounting the air cleaner was easy since all stock parts, but closing the hood became the issue. It appears the stock 1977 or 78 air cleaner mounted on the carb lightly touches the underside of the hood such that closing is almost impossible. Very strange since the exact same carb and air cleaner is on my other fiat and it work perfectly. Both cars are 1979's with the big bump hoods.

My thoughts are that either the spacers between the intake manifold and carb are different (i will check) or the hood needs to be adjusted upward on the front hinges or the motor mounts are different heights.

Anyone have any other ideas?

cheers
Dinghyguy

PS Our local Canadian Tire has car evenings on Friday in their parking lot for a couple of hours. Typically the hot rod and muscle car crowd show up but a few of us local Fiat fools occasionally show. So tonight is Fiat Friday in our house and we will be taking both our 79's (his and hers?0 to talk about handling not horsepower.

[Odoyle]

Dinghyguy, what RPM is the car idling at right now. When you took apart the carb, did you remove and inspect the emulsion tubes? It is important to have the F73 tube in the primary barrel and the F7 in the secondary. These can easily get reversed when reassembling and it will cause it to run rich with little top end power. To remove them, use a piece of wire, bent at the tip, and gently pull the inside of the tube (the emulsion tubes are located below the air correctors). I used a piece of MIG wire from my welder as that was the strongest and thinnest wire I could find.

[dinghyguy]

Odoyle, The carb had been in an unheated space for well over a decade i suspect. So i took it all apart, and yes i got the emulsion tubes out. I had to use solvent and a bit of heat but eventually i got them using bamboo skewers jammed in. I carefully checked the numbers, locations etc. I did need to get 1 new jet, it was wrong per the nominal standards. I have prepared a guide for the 32 ADF if anyone is interested.

Now that the accelerator pump issue is solved the car idles happily at 800 off choke and when cold it is currently idling about 1500 rpm. More tuning to come but not until after i check the timing and the vacuum advance .

The project has been a success for many reasons, including more power, better acceleration above 3000 rpm, cleaner engine bay and of course the learning process of playing with the carb.

Having two with the same set up makes comparison relatively easy. Next for this one is replacing the gauges with ones with Italian text, adding an oil pressure gauge (already put the sender in) and figuring out why there are no dash lights plus installing LED dash lights. I really liked the addition of the Italian gauges and LED dash light on my other fiat and it is easy to do.

cheers
dinghyguy