Purpose of putty on 124 door panel mechanisms?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I'm new to this forum so I hope that this post is in the right place, but I have a question that's been bugging me on 124 spiders (and maybe other models): What is the purpose of the grey clay (putty) that is placed around the screws for the window crank arm and door latch lever on the inner metal door panel? It can't be to fix the screws in place as those have washers, and it's hard to believe that the putty is for water or air tightness. Vibration? To prevent the door card from knocking against the metal in these area? Or???

-Bryan

[DieselSpider]

Possibly more to prevent damaging the door card or bumping it with your elbow and feeling the bolt head through it. The door cards are less than 1/8 inch thick un-tempered Masonite with minimal padding and dimple quite easily.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

That makes sense, thanks! Since I had to remove the clay to remove the mechanisms, I'll try a piece of foam pad when I put it back together. I have some 1/8" stiffer foam underlayment (like you use under laminated flooring) that I could cut to size and tack in place with some rubber cement.

-Bryan

[manoa matt]

It is to prevent the door card from deterioration due to water. You can replace the old dry cracked putty with plumber's putty. While you have the mechanisms out you can lube the window winder, pivot pulleys, and latch mechanism with spray white lithium grease.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Thank you! I already took out all the door mechanisms (everything, including pulleys), and all parts got cleaned and relubricated with lithium grease. It's all back together now, and working very smoothly. I have plumber's putty, so I will try some of that around the holes where the door latch and window crank mechanisms fit. The "board" for the door card is pretty marginal, so I may try to find something that could be used as a substitute. Masonite is too stiff, cardboard is totally not appropriate, but what else? Any ideas or suggestions?

-Bryan

[PaulC]

There are a number of suppliers for waterproof panelboard for door panels.
To wit:
https://www.perfectfit.com/15347/Chipbo ... board.html
or
http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Auto ... index.html

IIRC got ours from the second one (Rochford). Need to buy more than really necessary but they're pretty cheap.
Here's what ours look like:

Couldn't duplicate the heat embossing of the originals so we used "sew foam" bonded to the vinyl cover and stitched on real stitch lines.
Pretty easy to do once you peel off the original cover to use as a pattern.

[DieselSpider]

It is to prevent the door card from deterioration due to water. You can replace the old dry cracked putty with plumber's putty. While you have the mechanisms out you can lube the window winder, pivot pulleys, and latch mechanism with spray white lithium grease.

I'm sorry but how does a few small rings of putty around a few bolt heads halfway down the door prevent water from getting behind the door card?

That is what the tar paper, tape and other barriers at the top of the door are for.

[DieselSpider]

Un-tempered 1/8 in Masonite or 0.1 inch/2.5 mm underlayment/Luan plywood with a layer of tar paper or plastic sheeting behind it.

I am only purchasing locally now so no on-line purchases.

Only about $10 for a 4X8 sheet and no shipping fees compared to about $28 plus shipping for the Rockford product.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Utility-Pan ... /100543684

I primed mine to enhance water resistance. The original un-tempered Masonite doesn't hold up to water very well. Mine were so badly warped that I had to use an old style stove top clothes iron heated on a camp stove to flatten them before I could even trace them. They actually flattened so well I could have painted them and reused them but they had a bit more physical damage in some locations from being stapled by prior owners than I preferred.

Finding the 1/8 inch leg 22 gauge 3.8 inch crown upholstery staples locally is getting a bit harder lately. Especially in stainless steel.

[manoa matt]

Automotive designers, design the cars. The accountants and lawyers get the final say on what stays, what goes, and what's added, either to cut costs, or reduce liability. If it's there, it's there for a good reason. The reason is as you stated, the panels do not hold up to water very well. The inside of the door cavity is a "wet zone" where water is allowed to penetrate past seams and seals eventually weep out the bottom. The window winder mechanism, and door latch mechanism have cables and connecting rods that can catch water and direct it to the mechanism where it will affect the door card. You'd be surprised how much water is within the door and what surfaces it comes in contact with while driving in a heavy downpour at 60+ MPH. Tar paper is a non-original item to be within your door, rather white vinyl ovals with tabs stapled around the perimeter that are inserted into the various large holes, and black plastic circular plugs for the cable pully access holes.

[DieselSpider]

Most of the damage on mine came from the convertible top dripping on the inside as the barrier totally prevented water behind it from becoming an issue.

Just finished redoing the drivers side and half a yard of Marine Grade Vinyl about $10 dollars worth plus $2.50 worth of 2.5 mm Plywood Underlayment took care of it. The 1/8" and 3/16" rivets, primer and contact cement still only added extra few dollars. I will put in a new vapor barrier using RTV since the old one worked out so well though it was a bit brittle from age since it appears to have been there for decades.

Less than $20 per door so I am happy.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Thanks for all the input. It does seem like we all agree that the door cards are somewhat fragile in terms of water and mechanical damage, so it's very likely that the clay is there to mitigate that. I do fully agree that many production design decisions are made for financial and "manufacturability" reasons, and for all we know the nephew of one of the designers owned a putty plant and was looking for a new place to hawk his product. Stranger things have happened!

I'll play around with plumber's putty and perhaps a home-brew seal made from rubber or vinyl. Can't hurt. In any event, as this car rarely (if ever) gets driven in the rain, it may be a non-issue for the most part.

-Bryan

[DieselSpider]

Be cautious with plumbers putty as some can have a very oily residue which you won't want getting into the panel, flocking or the canvas backing of the vinyl. I'd still go current and use RTV or FlexSeal instead of plumbers putty.