Dual to single plane,...

[PaulC]

Success! At least 75% success.
Was finally able to remove the top fitting, the smaller bottom one and the EGR pass through. The two fittings with an impact wrench (blaster must have finally worked) and the EGR using the head of a hex bolt.
The last bottom fitting would require a 29 mm impact socket which I currently don't have.

[wetminkey]

Glad you finally got them out!
About your observation,...I've learned to use my penetrating fluid a day, or two, before I begin work. I sure seem to struggle less, anymore.
I once spent two weeks spraying, tightening the puller, and tapping a 1966 Mustang's pitman arm daily, before it finally broke loose (with a noise like a gunshot!). The stuff seems to finally work, in the end,...
Cool, I'll know that they CAN be conquered.
Todd.

[wetminkey]

Let's see if I can get the very same items off of my 'new to me' single plane intake manifold! Purchased today.
I think our's are identical, PaulC.
Swap underway,...

[wetminkey]

Brand new 32/36 DFEV Weber on the way! How cool is that?!
Todd.
P.S. E-choke. Guess I'll try to find a nipple to finish off that rear coolant outlet on the single plane manifold,...

[PaulC]

Let me know what you used for that
I finally got the last fitting off using a 29mm socket and an impact wrench, just need to get the required plugs from NAPA to finish it off after I give it a good cleaning.
I'll also be using an electric choke and paralleling the connection with the idle cutoff solenoid.
Then it'll be rebuilding the grubby ADFA carb that I disassembled before. May try rejetting it for our higher altitude here (4800 ft).

[manoa matt]

Your best option to deal with that coolant port at the rear of the intake manifold is to connect a hose from that port and run it behind the head over to the nipple on the coolant tube that come out of the back of the water pump. That will allow coolant circulation around the back of the cylinder head and more even temps across the cylinders as most of the flow is from the water pump near the front of the cylinder head.

[PaulC]

Going to need a photo of that,not sure I've seen such a fitting on the water pump, just the big coolant hose fitting to the radiator.

[wetminkey]

Yeah,...lost me on that one, too.
Looked at it today. Easy fix is to simply bypass my existing waterchoke. I'll run a hose from the new manifold's waterchoke outlet directly to the "T" in the heater core pipe that enters the firewall (where my existing waterchoke line connects). No leaks, no plugs, no ugly garbage,...

[geospider]

here is the photo of the pipe that comes off the back of the water pump. the black one behind the elbow of the EGR pipe.
It travels back along the head, goes up and over to the top of the head: where a lot of us have put a bleeder/burp valve.
there is a smaller second port that I believe goes to the heater corer??
Mine hasn't been hooked up so...
to be honest, I can remember where the other hose for the water choke came from/went. other then the 1 hose at the intake manifold.

hope this helps.

and: Werminkey: CONGRATS on the carb/manifold plunge. You wont be sorry.

Geo

[manoa matt]

A water activated choke has two ports on the cast aluminum "bell" on the carb. One hose goes to the port on the rear of the intake manifold. The other hose is routed around back of the cylinder head and connects to the smaller port on the tube that runs under the exhaust manifold and is bolted to the back of the water pump.

Wetmikey, the procedure you described is what I'm referring to.

[PaulC]

Thanks guys, I have it in hand now.

Also think there's a heater valve problem as I can't seem to shut off the heater.
Since we're in a somewhat temperate climate (No. AZ) I may put in one of those four season heater valves and just shut off the flow to the heater core rather than fight with the hassle of replacing the actual heater valve.

[manoa matt]

Route the hose that comes off the heater tube from the back of the water pump and connect it to the port in the valley of the cylinder head between No. 3 and 4. Install a Prestone "T" fitting and getting the air out of the system is much easier and serves to improve flow around the cylinder head.

[PaulC]

Have to take a look at that. Seems easier since I already have a flush tee there.

[wetminkey]

Gottcha, Matt! Thanks!
Best of luck Paul!
And thank you, geospider! I'm amazed at how much "emissions crap" will be eliminated from the driver's side of the engine! Wish I could use my cold air intake that went to my factory air cleaner. I'm keeping my 'snorkel', and I'll see if I can incorporate the cool, forced air later(?),...a subject for an entirely different thread!
Todd.

[manoa matt]

If anyone needs info, I have several diagrams and the Fiat factory service manual for the 32ADFA available in PDF form (also works for a 34ADF). Also factory routing manuals for all those colored emissions hoses that were on the 79 and 80 carb models.

Years ago I developed a cold air intake system using commonly available Spectre intake parts. There is a hole in the header panel on the drivers side of the radiator that with slight modification and a Spectre bracket on each side you can put a cone type filter behind the grill and hose off the back to a plenum that attaches to the carb. Send me an email and I can distribute pictures of the setup or any PDF files.

matt.scarton@gmail.com