Engine breaking up, wont stay running and high idle

[murrayr6]

The engine will not say running. It will be idling then just die randomly and not start again till you wait a little bit. When it is running however, it idles at 2k rpm. I also feel like it has like no power. It will stall when I am just feathering the clutch and the engine is at 2k rpm. Something just feels wrong. I have taken the carb apart and cleaned it, but it made no difference. Any ideas?

[murrayr6]

I think it may be vapor lock.

[wetminkey]

Naw, vapor lock occurs when fuel reaches it's vapor point (boils) and will not pump normally. It does not sound like you are bringing this engine to temps above normal,...
If in doubt, disconnect your fuel line from the carb, crank the engine, fuel should spurt out.
When encountering an overwhelming situation, fall back to basics. Assuming good working peripherals (distributor, carb) the engine should run,...perhaps poorly, but run. Compression, spark, and fuel is what it needs, all at the proper time, of course. Compression should be a given, since the car was running.
Rotate engine to TDC and double check cam timing, and distributor timing. Once everything is set at TDC properly, then you can troubleshoot beyond that.
Double check vacuum hoses and connections for leaks and generally inspect engine externals for obvious abnormalities,...
Start engine, establish an idle speed and adjust fuel/air mix to best idle,...readjust idle.
If this fails, you're back to double checking the spark (distributor) and the fuel (carburetor).
Not sure of your carb type (ADFA perhaps?) but there is a really good thread on the forum right now: "Weber 32 ADFA rebuilding question" that has a lot of good info and links. It may help if you need to deal with your carb,
I hope this 'formula' helps simplify things a bit,...
Best of luck! Post with progress!
Todd.

[kilrwail]

Always check the ignition before the carburetor. A complete tune-up would consist of VIC - valves, ignition and carb in that order. Make sure the points are in good shape with the proper gap. Likewise the plugs. Make sure the ignition wire from the coil to the distributor is not pinched and shorting where it enters the distributor. You may need a new condenser (or two if you still have dual points). Set the timing with a light. Now you can look at the carb. Set the idle mixture screw at 1-3/4 turns out from fully tight. Clean the idle jets. Set the idle speed at about 850 rpm. If it still stops running randomly you might need a new ignition switch. If it stops running when hot you may need to replace the wire from the distributor to the distributor. How is it now?

[murrayr6]

Sorry for not getting writing back sooner. I plugged a vacuum leak and set the idle mixture screw. I think the timing may be off a little but I got the idle down a little with a slight change in ignition timing. Its now hanging around 1300 rpm. I also replaced the coil with a brand new one. It ran around much better and did not cut out on me yet. I have been setting my ignition timing by ear, so no surprise that it is off. I ordered a timing light and it arrives soon. How do I use it? It may be a few weeks until I can work on the car. I am at school in Blacksburg, Va while my car is in Raleigh, NC. I recently got in a car crash, someone rear ended my Honda Pilot on I-81, so I am currently without any transportation back to Raleigh to work on car. Consequently, it may be 2-3 weeks before I can work on Fiona and post another update.
Thanks
Murray