Carb issues

[murrayr6]

My carb is a mess. First problem is I have a random threaded hole in the side of carb. From some research I have determined that it is the idle solenoid that is missing. That being said the car will idle once it starts. Should I get another one? If so, how should it be wired? Next problem is the car is an absolute bitch to start. The car will kick off with starting fluid but will not stay running on fuel. My first thought was to check the fuel bowl and found that it was empty. I have fuel in the tank and I have not seen any leaks in the lines. Why would I not be getting fuel? Is it possible that the mechanical fuel pump is not working? Or is there an electrical fuel pump that should have electricity and just doesn't. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Murray

[rebar1111]

I have a 34ADF. It requires a solenoid w/primary idle jet installed. Hot wire is hot when ignition switch is hot. Ground wire is not needed.

[murrayr6]

I'll try that. Thanks!

[Akspider]

I've an 1800 in my '72 Spider transplanted from a '78 and was able to plug the Idle solenoid hole with a 8mm x 10 x 1.0 pitch bolt with no ill effects. It's there to stop run-on when engine is shut off so if you don't have that problem at least will tide you over until solenoid is replaced. If a mechanical pump, follow the fuel line from pump on side of block thru filter (which may be plugged) to the carb - can disconnect line at carb and turn engine over to see if fuel pumps out into a container. My pump failed so installed an electric pump in the line near the fuel tank (low pressure for carb use). If your fuel line to the carb comes directly from the firewall area someone may have put an electric pump in and checks for power will be needed. There's also an accelerator pump diaphragm in the carb that failed in my Comet - gave me a no fuel spray in the carburetor symptom. Good luck! Used to see some nut with a gas can on his roof gravity feeding his carb up here years ago - wasn't really a good idea!!!

Roger

[murrayr6]

Thanks for the help! Ill check on the fuel pump! I also have a small in line fuel pump laying around the garage. If i get desperate I will shove that down the line some where. Moreover, I went digging through the boxes that came with the car and found the idle solenoid. It seems in really rough condition. Is there a way to test it other than just shoving it back in the carb and try to start it?
Thanks
Murray

[PaulC]

Connect +12 volts to the tab and negative to the case.
Should hear a click when you connect it up.

[murrayr6]

I am not hearing any clicks. I am assuming the solenoid is seized or something like that. Should I just soak it in PB blaster or WD-40 and try again? Or would doing that destroy the electronics in it? Or should I just give up and order a new one?
Thanks
Murray

[murrayr6]

Also, what is the electro switch? I found a diagram of all of the hoses coming off the carb and one of my missing hoses says it goes to the electro switch. Any ideas on what that is? https://imgur.com/gallery/emjxX/comment/1132805343

[PaulC]

You can try soaking the thin end with the idle jet to see if that frees it but keep the large cylinder out of it, that has the windings (it's just a solenoid).
Looking at pierce manifolds website, it looks like the jet itself is removable, at least it's shown as a separate part that can be ordered.
If you have an ohmmeter the coil should show some resistance but not zero ( a short) or infinity ( an open).
Barring that, a new one is 35-40 bucks.

[PaulC]

The thermo switches are located to the back of the intake manifold and allow vacuum to pass thru when the coolant temp reaches a set point. Not sure if they're really needed or what the effect would be if you ran the vacuum hose directly
See 10-129/130 of the service manual

[murrayr6]

I located the thermo switch. I think I am just going to plug the holes and see what happens. I got the thermo switch soaking in a mixture of rust perpetrator and WD-40. Needless to say I think I am just ordering another one. Thanks for all your help!

[murrayr6]

I dont have the thermo switching soaking. I meant the solenoid.

[PaulC]

Don't just plug the vacuum ports at the carb, just bypass the thermo switches by running the vac hose directly from the carb to the place it should go. Not sure how things will run otherwise. I took off all the emission vac hoses and hardware and just left the vac lines to the egr valve and distributor vac advance and car seems to run fine. Also removed the two reed valves and plugged the holes and the gulp valve.

[murrayr6]

Thanks for the help on that. I have good news! My mixture of brake clean, Gunk degreaser, WD-40 and lacquer thinner fix my solenoid! It now clicks when i put power to it! Gonna try and start the car again in a few minutes. I'll let you guys know if I run into any more problems!
Thanks
Murray

[Nanonevol]

As Akspider said, that part is only to prevent run on when the motor is shut off.
The rest of your carb probably needs attention.