Hot start problem 1977 spider

[Pier124]

Hello,

I have been having this problem for a very long while and I am finally out of resources!

I start the car up from cold, take it for a drive. It drives fine, but as soon as I turn the engine off, it will not start again for the next 30-40 minutes. The starter cranks fine. The battery, starter and alternator are brand new. The ignition system seems to work fine as I get a blue spark from the spark plugs.

When I pull the throttle cable (from the gas pedal, not the throttle handle), I can see gas squirting from the accelerator pump jet. I have also inspected the accelerator pump diaphragm and it looked ok (I replaced it while rebuilding the carburetor when I first started having this problem). So I don't think the engine is starving for gas and I doubt the accelerator pump is leaking either. Also, there is not fuel puddling on the throttle plate.

I did notice when I was pulling on the throttle cable that there were quite a bit of fumes emanating from the freshly injected gas. I don't know whether this is normal or not... however, the fuel bowl and the fuel line leading to the carburetor were both cool to the touch, so I doubt that there is vapor locking happening in there.

Any idea of what I could look at next?

The car is a 1977 spider with the 1756cc engine.

Thanks in advance!

[Zoofly]

I had a similar problem and I ended up changing the Temperature Gauge Sending Unit and that took care of the problem. Here's a link to explain it. Good luck!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DtcIlkt4BY

[rebar1111]

Cloud from the carb with that activity is normal.

Consider ignition coil failure when hot. New coils are inexpensive.

[Pier124]

Alright, thanks guys I guess I'll try the coil first as it is inexpensive and readily available.

As to the water temp transmitter, I am curious as to how it could keep the engine from firing up? Doesn't it just supply its signal to the gauge? Anyway, it won't hurt to try it either, they are quite inexpensive.

[MattVAS]

Most likely the ignition coil is the problem as mentioned above.
The temp sender has nothing to do with this on a carb model. On FI models the temp sender for the ECU (the one mounted in the water tee) can cause an issue like this.

[Pier124]

I have replaced the coil and it seems the issue is finally resolved! I could start the car a couple times after driving it for a while. Thank you guys for your help!

[rebar1111]

Glad to be of some help. It is good to hear back that a remedy did or did not work. Thanks