How do you know if the Steering Idler is bad?

[Bills80]

I'm in the process of a complete (nothing attached to the body) restoration of a '80 carb car. How do I know if the idler is bad? I could buy one and then return it but that's not helpful to anyone. Right now I have about 6-9 lbs of resistance (depending on direction of travel) from 2" from each end of travel to the end of travel and very little resistance in the middle. This was measured at the outter most hole on the idler arm. Is this normal?

While I'm on the steering system, I understand the gear box is adjusted at center to near zero lash and the ends of travel have a small amount of lash but how much? I will assume the lash at the ends will determine replacement/rebuild.

Thanks

[geospider]

Well, replaced mine not long ago with the ball bearing style you CAN get. some on here have rebuilt theirs: very cool.
I do think it is a great piece of engineering. mine was leaking and no seals to be had, so...the replacement. I have found that there is virtually NO resistance with the ball bearing style; seems just a piece of linkage.

I would say that if yours is not leaking, you can open the top and drain the oil and replace: 90 wt I believe (same as in Dif). should move smoother with clean oil.
Geo

[MattVAS]

Yes the GL5 goes in the steering box and idler, just like the diff. There shouldn't be any resistance from the idler. This of it more of just a pivot point on the passengers side. The new bearing ones (such as the ones we have at Vick Auto) are much nicer than the OE ones.

Also if you can't get play out of the old box you might just look at replacing the old steering box. A fresh box and idler make a HUGE difference when turning the wheel.

[Bills80]

Thanks to both of you. I was beginning to wonder if anyone knew the answer. I will buy a new Idler now that I know there shouldn't be any resistance. During this project Vicks has been the recipient of quite a few $$$$, I guess they get some more. I still don't know the answer on the box. I can adjust and get the lash out of it at the center but I've read that it is in the design for the lash to get greater at the ends of travel. I would think there would be some criteria for this but maybe not. I guess the box (gears)would wear at the center of travel since this is where the majority of use is and if the lash can be adjusted to zero at the center the ends should be OK.

Bill

[tcrooks]

Just a comment on checking steering linkage idler for wear — (with car assembled) raise front end off tires grasp tires pull in, then push out, look for any up and down movement of idler arm, if up and down movement observed, replace.

[DieselSpider]

There should be some resistance as that is the whole point of the paddles, check valves and oil. It serves double duty as a steering damper so you do not get as much feedback from bumps and imperfections in the road that can make the steering wheel a bit twitchy in your hands when driving on rough roads.

I drive a lot of back roads and appreciate the damper built into the OEM idler so I would be inclined to add an external damper if I got stuck with the dry ball bearing version.

Its a personal choice and your either going to love or really hate the new style.