Heater Valve

[mbouse]

does the paddle on the console travel all the way in both directions?

you might have a kink in the cable keeping it from traveling all the way.

[reservoirdog]

the cable is usually a tight fit with the new valves, you may have to re-route it but it should just be long enough

Now that the weather is starting to change here in NY I took the time to get the new heater valve in place in anticipation of getting some heat for the winter. I took the console off to reroute the cable, which was just about a half inch too short - I got the cable hooked up, but when I move the heat lever just the cover for the cable seems to slide - and the valve doesn't open and shut properly.

Am I missing a connection somewhere to hold the cable cover in place?

Alsos, with the console off I notice my signal indicators don't work - any idea on what I may have pulled apart by mistake? There are several terminal ends behind the console that seem to have no use, but I have a feeling I may have yanked something out of the dash in error.

Thanks for any help as always

[So Cal Mark]

the indicators are routed through the hazard switch, so check that connection

[rlux4]

Here's a picture of my heater valve. Does your cable have the clamping plate on it (near the end of the shielding)? This keeps the shielding in place so the cable slides, not the shielding.
(click to enlarge)
Ron

[reservoirdog]

I have the replacement one, I think this is the older one - but thanks for confirming I need some type of clamp to hold the shielding in place - I've had the replacement part so long (and disassembled) that I may have gotten separated from the clamp.

Thanks again and to Mark - my hazard is disconnected so that why I lost my turn signals

[reservoirdog]

This may be a stupid question - I got the new valve in place and wanted to test new seals and flush out the core as best I could before before I put the valve back in line (right now it is bypassed)>

So I ran water thru the core simply by pouring it in one hose and letting it come out the other - here is my question - should the flow of water stop when I move the heat to the off position? It continued to run through the core even in the off position. So Im not sure if the valve totally shuts off water flow or just restricts it.

Any other ideas on pressure testing it before I reconnect? Thanks

[sawmkw]

I had thought that the valve should stop the flow of water. I'm going to be replacing mine in the next week and will perform the same check as you have. Hopefully someone else can chime in here as well. BTW, the 1/4" socket set is my favorite tool when working on the Spider.

[rlux4]

The valve should stop the flow completely. I chandged mine out last year and I checked the new one by blowing into it in the closed position. If there is any flow through it you will always have hot air coming from the heater.
Ron

[reservoirdog]

Thats interesting - before I installed it I did try blowing into it and it DID close completely. I was having trouble with the cable length originally as I had to reoute the cable to make it reach, maybe its too long now and not pulling the valve fully shut.

I guess I have to go back under the dashboard, you have to be a gymnast to get this valve in there.

[rlux4]

I had to work on getting the cable to reach the new valve. At best it either wouldn't close all the way, or open all the way, one or the other. I adjusted the position so that it closes all the way, when I need heat it doesn't need to be open all the way to give me plenty. On the other hand, living in the desert, when I want it off, I want it all the way off.
Ron

[Curly]

You guys aught to try replacing that valve on a right-hand-drive converted Spider It can still be done insitu, but you have the extra complication of the steering column and pedals in the way. Mark's suggestion of getting the car up off the ground a couple of feet (and removing the seat) certainly makes it easier for those of us who have lost our youthful flexibility.