Crankcase pulley nut

[SpiderVisco]

Hello all,
I have taken the 1985 spider the has been sitting in my moms garage for the past 20 years and decided to get it back up to its former glory. It was at one time my fathers daily driver. I have gotten it running nicely after changing fuel injectors and the necessary items that needed changing to run smoothly. I haven't really ran it for any extended period of time as I want to get the timing belt changed before doing so. Hence my post this evening. In looking at the shop manual and other post online, it talks of a 32MM bolt. Mine is 22mm. Also read some may be reverse threads. Any insight would be helpful. Also what is the preferred method of removal? Thanks
Marc

http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/cram2 ... g.html?o=0

[gjones1967]

On my FI engine, the 22mm nut is reverse thread. I found out the hard way and broke mine. Feedback from the group confirmed this. Got to find a shop to get it drilled out!

[SpiderVisco]

Thanks gjones1967 I am assuming the L on the face of the nut means left hand thread. Did you need a puller to get the pulley off? What did you use to hold the pulley from spinning when removing the nut? Thanks

[ekstrandt]

I removed radiator and such to get access for impact wrench and a nice chain wrench with a long handle to hold the pulley. I don't remember if impact wrench worked or if I had to use a cheater bar... anyhow once the bolt is gone the pulley will come off with some light taps. Take your time lots of pictures and try not to get too frustrated putting the new timing belt on.

p.s. I hope all of your 1985 "improvements" are in great shape if not they can be expensive and hard to find in relation to earlier models

[SpiderVisco]

Thanks for the tip, fingers crossed!!!

[gjones1967]

My engine was out and on a stand so the flywheel wedged against one of the bolts holding engine to stand and held it tight. Wish I had checked the nut for an L. I since realized that investing in an impact wrench and impact sockets which was less than $50 from Harbor Freight was well worth it.

[FordPrefect]

Well, whatever you do, don't about the wrench you've left on that nut and then try to start the car like I did once.

[SpiderVisco]

That went better the expected. confirmed 22mm "L" marked on face of bolt 85' 2000cc FI REVERSE threads. This forum is great I would have been trying to loosen that thing all day long way, and possibly break it. I used a chain clamp and 22mm socket on the breaker bar. sprayed it down with some PB blast last night. I couple of firm tugs and she popped loose really nicely. Thanks for the info, now on to the task of actually changing the timing belt and getting her buttoned back up again.

http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh5 ... 4xlvnt.jpg

[Spider951]

I know this topic is kinda old, but in a way kinda timeless so here's another $0.02 worth on crank pulley nut removal from my Redneck Fiat Toolbox:
(1) To prevent the flywheel and thus crankshaft from turning with engine in car while using your socket/breaker bar or impact wrench, I made the following gadget (must crawl under car and remove flywheel cover):


(2) Variation of above with engine out of car (note metal bars and screwdriver blade jammed in slots cut to match flywheel gear teeth:


(3) Use of engine weight (and added weight on wooden pallet) to pull against using cable puller hooked at one end of breaker bar lever/socket wrench and other end to engine lift arm (be sure to block movement of engine hoist wheels or the whole contraption moves when you crank on the puller):


(4) Additional: gizmo (DIY version of Fiat tool A.60446) to lock intake and exhaust pulleys (gears) while removing them (timing belt would not hold them for me -jumped teeth):


Attached to intake cam tower (top and side views - also works on exhaust side):




All that are needed to make these "tools" are pieces of angle iron, steel bar, drill, welder, angle grinder, various files.

[chrisg]

What did you use for the teeth themselves on that last tool?

[Spider951]

Grooves for teeth part of the cam tool were simply "cut" into a 1/4" thick bar steel with angle grinder.

Measure width of gear teeth on cam wheel or simply mark with felt tip on bar steel laid beside cam (rather imprecise, but good enough, I tried a cardboard model but it was too flimsy). Then place bar steel in vise and grind grooves perpendicular to bar edge (not too deep or you will cut thru bar); followed by squaring the groove bottoms off a bit with hand file held on edge. The piece of bar steel I had was already bent a little to begin with, but heat from working on it with angle grinder helped to heat it up and grooves helped too to further bend piece to mesh with gear teeth on cam wheel (I used small sledge hammer with piece held in various positions in vise). It's kind of back and forth until you get a decent fit with cam wheel teeth. Then weld that curved "geared" piece to angle iron (helps to first drill holes in angle iron for cambox bolts and then bolt angle iron onto cambox for precise welding of teeth part). I'm sure someone with some decent machining tools could do a way better, more precise job, but hey, it worked great. Zero slippage and no teeth jumping of timing belt.

Steve

[chrisg]

Thanks! That is great. I may need to copy you on that one (and maybe others).