Prep before start?

[architect]

Hello!

I’m about to fire up my 124 for the first time in a year.. was wondering if I need to prep anything prior.. this is what I have done since last cruise.

-new gas tank (been empty since feb 17)
-new electrical fuel pump
-converted all fuel lines to two stainless braided lines with AN fittings
-new holly fuel pressure reg and filter
-new Weber 34 adf
- Allison Distributorless ignition


I have read to pour a gas little in carb.. etc, but my carb has a return line, do I really need to do that? What about oil? Should I crank starter a few times before turning the elec fuel pump on? (I have kill switch). I’m new to carbs.. so need to ask!

Any advice would be great. A year is a long time and a little nervous!

[zachmac]

Check choke and throttle linkage at carb to make sure working with no binding. A stuck choke will give you fits.

[njoconnor]

The past few winters, I've started the car monthly, but this one's been a really busy one. First start coming up in about a week or two. Still a good idea to drop a small amount of oil down the plug openings, or ? Been on a battery maintainer all winter, so no worries on cranking.

Thanks

Neil

[GeorgeT]

After sitting that long, I would change the oil and oil filter. Also check the coolant. I would remove the ignition coil wire and spin the motor to build up oil pressure before firing.

[architect]

Check choke and throttle linkage at carb to make sure working with no binding. A stuck choke will give you fits.

Oh that reminds me... so my new carb has an electric choke (vs water on my previous).

How do these work.. does the electcity (Positive I assume?) engage or the choke?

[njoconnor]

Thanks, George; oil/filter change was on the immediate to-do list anyway.

Neil

[zachmac]

Check choke and throttle linkage at carb to make sure working with no binding. A stuck choke will give you fits.

Oh that reminds me... so my new carb has an electric choke (vs water on my previous).

How do these work.. does the electcity (Positive I assume?) engage or the choke?

Choke should be mostly closed when cold. Once you turn on the key you power a coiled spring that expands as the electricity heats it and this acts like an unwinding spring that opens the choke. Be aware that if you turn the key to "on" it starts heating the choke element even if you aren't running. If you just went to on and sat there the choke would fully open eventually which makes it hard to start a cold engine, so if for any reason you are going to have the key ON for an extended period before starting unplug the hot wire to the choke. Basically it is just a matter of how long the choke is energized, not really a function of engine temp at all.

Also a good idea to kick full down on the throttle before you start to make sure the choke is released to the almost closed position. They can hang open after the last time running. If they do you'll crank forever and never start (ask me how I know ).

[architect]

Check choke and throttle linkage at carb to make sure working with no binding. A stuck choke will give you fits.

Oh that reminds me... so my new carb has an electric choke (vs water on my previous).

How do these work.. does the electcity (Positive I assume?) engage or the choke?

Choke should be mostly closed when cold. Once you turn on the key you power a coiled spring that expands as the electricity heats it and this acts like an unwinding spring that opens the choke. Be aware that if you turn the key to "on" it starts heating the choke element even if you aren't running. If you just went to on and sat there the choke would fully open eventually which makes it hard to start a cold engine, so if for any reason you are going to have the key ON for an extended period before starting unplug the hot wire to the choke. Basically it is just a matter of how long the choke is energized, not really a function of engine temp at all.

Also a good idea to kick full down on the throttle before you start to make sure the choke is released to the almost closed position. They can hang open after the last time running. If they do you'll crank forever and never start (ask me how I know ).

Wow very nice description! Thanks for sharing the info.. this makes it much easier on my end. I will verify the wire is hot during run position!

[architect]

Thanks, George; oil/filter change was on the immediate to-do list anyway.

Neil

I haven’t changed the actual oil (myself) since I have own the car. The PO changed it a month or so before delivering the car..

I would like to swap the oil my self before I start her up. Because my car is lowered (suspension) I purchase a marine oil pump to “suck up” the oil from the pan... since it’s been sitting for a while, this is the perfect opportunity.

When pulling the oil filter, am I going to expect a large amount of oil to fall from the neck? Just want to make sure I don’t create a huge mess in my new garage!

[njoconnor]

Sorry....didn't see the reply notification until this morning. More caffeine.....

My suspension is also "lowered", though the "lowering" springs don't decrease ride height much on small bumper cars. I also used a pump on my last two changes, then slid a catch pan under the oil filter before removing it (belly pan has been off the car since the rebuild; it's one of this springs re-install chores). The catch pan caught the few drips from the oil filter neck, saving the garage floor (which is anything but pristine in my case).

This spring, I'm jacking the front end and doing it the old way: drain the pan through the drain plug. I'm installing a magnetic drain plug that's been sitting in the "new parts" box for a year or two. Once changed, start it up and move to the "work bay" for refresh work on the brake system.

Since 40+ y/o cars tend to ooze things anyway, I ordered a 3x6 vinyl mat with hard borders through Home Depot when we moved into the current house. I can slide it around any of the vehicles we have, but it mainly lives under the Spider in case of oozes. It was very helpful last spring when changing out all the radiator and cooling hoses, as well as while cleaning the engine bay.

Neil

[GeorgeT]

Thanks, George; oil/filter change was on the immediate to-do list anyway.

Neil

I haven’t changed the actual oil (myself) since I have own the car. The PO changed it a month or so before delivering the car..

I would like to swap the oil my self before I start her up. Because my car is lowered (suspension) I purchase a marine oil pump to “suck up” the oil from the pan... since it’s been sitting for a while, this is the perfect opportunity.

When pulling the oil filter, am I going to expect a large amount of oil to fall from the neck? Just want to make sure I don’t create a huge mess in my new garage!

If has been sitting a long time all or most of the oil should have drained into the pan so I wouldn't expect any to drip from the oil filter mount but the oil filter will be full of oil so be careful there. Just for grins I would have some cardboard or several layers of newspapers under just in case.

[architect]

Thanks, George; oil/filter change was on the immediate to-do list anyway.

Neil

I haven’t changed the actual oil (myself) since I have own the car. The PO changed it a month or so before delivering the car..

I would like to swap the oil my self before I start her up. Because my car is lowered (suspension) I purchase a marine oil pump to “suck up” the oil from the pan... since it’s been sitting for a while, this is the perfect opportunity.

When pulling the oil filter, am I going to expect a large amount of oil to fall from the neck? Just want to make sure I don’t create a huge mess in my new garage!

If has been sitting a long time all or most of the oil should have drained into the pan so I wouldn't expect any to drip from the oil filter mount but the oil filter will be full of oil so be careful there. Just for grins I would have some cardboard or several layers of newspapers under just in case.

Thanks! I found a YouTube video of someone putting a plastic bag around the filter, then unscrewing... the bag pics up the final drips.

Just ordered the magnetic plug from AR. Looking for the lowest / flattest oil container too. Would really like to advoid crawling under the car at all cost!

[njoconnor]

Thanks! I found a YouTube video of someone putting a plastic bag around the filter, then unscrewing... the bag pics up the final drips.

Just ordered the magnetic plug from AR. Looking for the lowest / flattest oil container too. Would really like to avoid crawling under the car at all cost!

Cat litter pan, with or without (clean) cat litter. Low, wide, holds a lot.

Neil

[architect]

Car started first try! Lot of work (13 months!) and idled amazing! No gas in carb required.

Thanks for the help!