Installing a Console Cap

[GOPAPA]

Well, $500 is a little pricey for a E-brake handle. But on the other hand, be a lot of free parts left over.
Ron

At least a couple extra parts that we could use huh? Hey . What about the plywood idea I did around the shifter handle ?
Can a guy buy a new wood grain panel for the area around the shifter ? If I can I then would glue it to a 1/2 inch piece of plywood so to give me more of an area to fasten the boot as the way it is new is really not that easy to redo with that aluminun collar . PAPA

[rlux4]

The plywood replacement looks amazingly good. Especially considering what you used to do it with. Wasn't your original piece a thin veneer glued onto a metal backing? When I get a round tuit, I plan on using a thin layer and attach it to the metal backing plate, only because that way it will retain the original snap posts for holding it in place. You're right, a thinner material would not stick up so much and look better. You can get just about any wood you want as the top layer veneer on plywood. Matching the other "wood" on the car would be almost impossible, as it's actually plastic.
Ron

[GOPAPA]

The plywood replacement looks amazingly good. Especially considering what you used to do it with. Wasn't your original piece a thin veneer glued onto a metal backing? When I get a round tuit, I plan on using a thin layer and attach it to the metal backing plate, only because that way it will retain the original snap posts for holding it in place. You're right, a thinner material would not stick up so much and look better. You can get just about any wood you want as the top layer veneer on plywood. Matching the other "wood" on the car would be almost impossible, as it's actually plastic.

Ron

I used the metal backing plate like you suggested with the snap posts fasteners and I also screwed it to the plywood from underneath with sheet metal flat head screws.. I will need new snap post recievers next time because Some one before me had taking them off more than once and abused them doing so .
I will use 1/2 inch plywood with same color wood grain ,,or,, use i/2 inch plywood with a vaneer of the same color wood grain and glue it to the plywood .
Sure wish I had back all them TV's with all them pretty wood grain boxes I through away some years back when they were made out of vaneer ..
The one I made for a temporary this time I made from a cabnet door I had from a kitchen remodel .. I may just find the color match this way as people are taking out the dark colors these days.. anyway until I find one with a real close color I will move on to the door chrome in the arm rests .. papa

[mbouse]

ewwww... i don't think that was sucha good idea! you will have to remove the entire console if you ever wanna get at your shifter mechanism.

screwing the trim in from the bottom may not be sucha good idea.

i used some silicon adhesive to the top of the console to hold down an errant triangle trim part. at least the silicon will let go with enough persuasion...and the whole console does not have to come off for shifter parts maintenance.

[GOPAPA]

ewwww... i don't think that was sucha good idea! you will have to remove the entire console if you ever wanna get at your shifter mechanism.

screwing the trim in from the bottom may not be sucha good idea.

i used some silicon adhesive to the top of the console to hold down an errant triangle trim part. at least the silicon will let go with enough persuasion...and the whole console does not have to come off for shifter parts maintenance.

I can lift up my plywood and metal plate and it will come right out along with the shifter boot and I can get to shifter mechanism.
I screwed the metal plate from underneath to the plywood so they lift out togeather.
What holds down the plywood and metal plate is a lip on the front of the metal plate that extends out past the plywood and slips under the upper console and the rear is held down by the two snap posts that is connected to the bottom of the metal plate.. It works and does not effect the integrity of the Original except that the metal plate and plywood sits up 1/2 inch higher than Original .. not noticable at all ,,I think papa

[GOPAPA]

ewwww... i don't think that was sucha good idea! you will have to remove the entire console if you ever wanna get at your shifter mechanism.

screwing the trim in from the bottom may not be sucha good idea.

i used some silicon adhesive to the top of the console to hold down an errant triangle trim part. at least the silicon will let go with enough persuasion...and the whole console does not have to come off for shifter parts maintenance.

I can lift up my plywood and metal plate and it will come right out along with the shifter boot and I can get to shifter mechanism.
I screwed the metal plate from underneath to the plywood so they lift out togeather.
What holds down the plywood and metal plate is a lip on the front of the metal plate that extends out past the plywood and slips under the upper console and the rear is held down by the two snap posts that is connected to the bottom of the metal plate.. It works and does not effect the integrity of the Original except that the metal plate and plywood sits up 1/2 inch higher than Original .. not noticable at all ,,I think papa

Correction >>>> I have 3/4 inch plywood in there now and I should of said "when i redo it I will use 1/2 inch and then it will sit lower and you won't see the edge of the plywood ,,,if this proves out to be to thick along with the Laminate of wood grain then I will go to 3/8 inch plywood..
thats it unless any one has any questions .. papa

[rlux4]

The original laminate is about 1/8" and is recessed down from the top lip of the console about 3/8", so 1/2" would give you about a flush look. It would look good in my opinion. You may need to go down to 3/8" to keep it from being above the lip. A cove bit in a router would help the outside edge stay flush with the curved lip of the console recess. If you don't have some of the woodworking tools you'd need, no problem, stop out at my place, I have whatever you would need!
Ron

[mbouse]

ok. s'long as that trim comes up without the console being removed... i musta read your post incorrectly.

[GOPAPA]

The original laminate is about 1/8" and is recessed down from the top lip of the console about 3/8", so 1/2" would give you about a flush look. It would look good in my opinion. You may need to go down to 3/8" to keep it from being above the lip. A cove bit in a router would help the outside edge stay flush with the curved lip of the console recess. If you don't have some of the woodworking tools you'd need, no problem, stop out at my place, I have whatever you would need!
Ron

I already know I cannot use the original because it will be to small at 3/8 inch up the side of the concole so if I use

laminated counter cover it would be less than 1/8 inch so I gain a little there and as for the edge,,yes I do have a router and was thinking the same thing . I will use a hard paper template to get the miter cut as exact as I can up against the beveled console.. Now , I need to try and find a color/grain match ,,any help on this would be really apprecitated .

thanks ron papa

[GOPAPA]

ok. s'long as that trim comes up without the console being removed... i musta read your post incorrectly.

I doubt that friend ,,LOL,, I reread what I have written and edit it and edit it and still wonder if I have explained my self very well.. I think I got it to where it is workable just need a color match laminate ,,any help will appreciated ..
thanks mike papa

[rlux4]

Here's an outfit that can supply just about any grain plywood you could imagine. They will cut to your request.
http://www.andersonplywood.com/plywood_hard_wood.htm
I think you'll need to find the grain you want and then work on getting the color. Lowe's and HD will custom mix wood stain for you. What I do is mix my own to get the color and shade I'm after. Of course, you'll need some extra material to test the color on, and sand it before you color it.
Hope this helps some.
Ron

[TulsaSpider]

Ok I am intrigued. Maybe a future project.. I have one question. Do you put the new one directly on top of the old one? It seems it would be pretty easy to strip the old one and start fresh? I took a look at mine today and I don't know how you could cover it with leather with all those corners and dips etc...

[rlux4]

Clark, the cap Gopapa used is a thin plastic cover that uses an adhesive to attach to the original console. To uphoster one would take an expert upholsterer or someone very talented as Radiopilot obviously is. In 1981 Fiat made 1000 Anniversary Edition Spiders. It had a special color scheme, leather seats and a padded console. After 1981, the padded console was an option that could be ordered. The seller of my car didn't mention it in the ad and it was a pleasant suprise when I went down to inspect the car. With this option came a leather trim strip at the bottom of the dash. It just hangs there, so I will probably eliminate it when I get my dash upholstered.

Ron

[spiderrey]

sounds like alot of work. luckily i bought a new nos one last year. found it at an ol fiat shop going out of buisness. it sits under my bed, till my car is worthy of it.

[So Cal Mark]

isn't your whole car under your bed these days?